Hi. Im in the process of building a 2.3 6-bolt. I have Ross pistons .040 over, Crower rods, and a new 4g64 crank. I have read in many posts that the block will need to be clearanced for it to fit. I have also read that the mains will also need to be notched to fit with the new crank.

Does anybody have any experience with Crower rods. Does the block still need to be clearanced with those rods? The shop Im going to wants to charge me 150 to clearance everything, but if I can do it myself that would be great.

Also, I have read counterdicting stories about the oil squiters, can I keep them or cant I. If i cant what are potential problems that I will encounter.

Thanks.
Kyle

I just went through re-clearancing my 2.3L not more than 2 days ago. I have a .40 over Wiseco/Eagle Combo w/ a 4g64 crank. Here were the things I had to clearance. Theres a few things that only hit when the engine is running.

1. The #3 rod would touch and rub the inside castings of the block durring rotation. It did this when turning over by hand. I used some carbide bits to clearance this. Easy to do.

2. The rod caps and bolts were starting to hit and rub the main caps. This happened only at higher RPM's due to crank flex, etc. Again, I used carbide bits and stones to clearance the main caps for rods 1 and 4.

3. My 91 piston squirters just barely rubbed the inside wrist pin housing of the pistons. Here I had 3 choices. I could have A.) bend the squirter nozzles out of the way for more clearance, B.) Bought and used newer smaller evo style squirters, or C.) Remove the oil squirters and block them off. I chose C. Oil squirters are not needed in aftermarket forged aluminum pistons such as yours and mine. For record to block them off you need some short, M12X1.25 bolts. I used some copper washers and loctite to ensure the bolts stay put.

I did not have any problems with oil pan clearances with the rods. I can not be for sure on your rods, but my eagle's were not a problem.

Other than what I stated, I had no clearance issues.

Thanks for the great info. I wasnt sure what type of pistons people were talking about when they said that you needed the squiters, i got it now.

So you totally assembeled the engine then turned it and it rubbed. Did you then disassemble and clearance it or leave everything in.

How high did you rev it and how did the bearings look when you redid it?

Kmiller86 said:

So you totally assembeled the engine then turned it and it rubbed. Did you then disassemble and clearance it or leave everything in.

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Nope. Other than the #3 rod in the way, thats the only thing that I clearanced before running the engine. I actually put about 1200 miles on the engine and then pulled the pan just to check things out. Not a single shaving or evidence of metal on metal contact. I free handly checked rod play and they were great. I just removed the squirters, and put bolts in there place like I'd mentioned before. And for clearancing the rods for the mains, I shoved a lot of rags in the block above where I was clearancing and went at it. I then thourougly used about 2 cans of carb cleaner and brake cleaner to remove any left overs from the dremeling. I then changed the oil about 5 miles of driving, and there were 0 signs of metalicness.

Kmiller86 said:

How high did you rev it and how did the bearings look when you redid it?

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I generally rev the engine to 7200 and the occasional 7400-7500. Perfect spot for my setup. And I never took the engine back apart to view the bearings but from the looks under the pan all signs point good.

Before you do any machine work, put a rod and piston together. Start at bore #1 and rotate by hand the crank with the piston and rod installed. Note any interferance and fix. Save yourself the $150 and do the clearancing yourself. Its easy.

Just a side note but I thought I read a post where Crowers used a smaller rod-cap. Which meant there was no need to clearance the mains. Don't take my word on this do what I said in the above paragraph first. Good luck.

That is what I did. And you are correct the Crower rods have now Main cap issues at all. Cylinder three still hits though but only slightly. A buddy of mine at the machine shop said he would do it for free because it is such a small amount to do. Thanks for the input.

Kyle

Do these clearancing issues apply to a g4cs block ? I'm thinking the #3 piston wouldn't hit the block since the bore is larger and the main caps wouldn't interfere for #1&4 since they're meant to work with the 100mm crank? The 4g63 6bolt oil pan could have the same issues though, but I'm a little confused here as some people had to clearance it and some didn't with the same rod.