so my machinist doesnt have a torque plate for the ole 4g63..i live out here in the sticks so its not like i can just find one somewhere..anyone wanna rent me one or something?? I would buy one but id probably only use it once or twice and that doesnt seem logical.

Tell your machinist to make one for you and you will pay 1/4 of his expence. This way he will be able to do other peoples 4G63 and have the plate already made. Make him understand it is good for his business to have one.

In all honesty if he tells you it's not necessary or that he doesn't want to make one, I'd find another machine shop.

he knows i need it..hes pretty good, he just does mostly ford cobra stuff and doesnt have one...he did offer to order me one at his cost but i still think i dont want to spend the money on that...i never thought about him making one for me...ill have to ask him

How much do they run? That is a great idea though. Or if he doesnt watn to make one then just go in half and half with him

My machinist is making me a torque plate as we speak (free). He's very good (builds Paul Efauntes's, MSP Motorsports, 8sec Street Tire 1100hp Supra engines, yes it's faster than the Titan Supra). I also have dealer pricing through him (cause I work at a DSM shop) and can get things done INSANELY cheap. Big rods machined for 2g pistons, $60. Completely built 4g63, balanced and blueprinted...$210 (obviously you supply the parts). Knifedged and Balanced crank...$90.

And no, I will not tell you the shop's name. But I'm going by to take some more parts to him tomarrow...I'll ask him how much he wants to make another plate to sell.

Oh yea, and he's making me some Phenolic spacers for my intake manifold too. Guy is a god send.

right on thanx any wonderful discounts you can get for the fellow DSMer would be great too

Originally posted by dyezak
My machinist is making me a torque plate as we speak (free). He's very good (builds Paul Efauntes's, MSP Motorsports, 8sec Street Tire 1100hp Supra engines, yes it's faster than the Titan Supra). I also have dealer pricing through him (cause I work at a DSM shop) and can get things done INSANELY cheap. Big rods machined for 2g pistons, $60. Completely built 4g63, balanced and blueprinted...$210 (obviously you supply the parts). Knifedged and Balanced crank...$90.

And no, I will not tell you the shop's name. But I'm going by to take some more parts to him tomarrow...I'll ask him how much he wants to make another plate to sell.

Oh yea, and he's making me some Phenolic spacers for my intake manifold too. Guy is a god send.

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im looking for a semi local shop to do my 4g64 build up, can you im me with any help you might be able to offer. i noticed you said you work for a dsm shop?

Originally posted by candela
How much do they run? That is a great idea though. Or if he doesnt watn to make one then just go in half and half with him

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My guy didn't have one, and I told him I didn't want to use him unless he used a torque plate with the boring/honing, so he said he would buy one considering he had one already for just about any block you can name. He said they charged him 400 plus he had it made with custom steel inserts where the head bolts torque down. Ordered from someone in California.

I have been stationed up here in the great state of Alaska for almost a year now, and I STILL can't find anybody up here with a torque plate for a 4G63. I am rebuilding the block on my 91 GSX, and I need to find a shop in the Pacific NW that I can send my bottom end to, to have it bored .020" over and have it ballanced/assembled. They need to have a torque plate, and they need to do good work, but the also have to have a reasonalbe turn arround time. (a decent price would be nice too, but I know that you typically get what you pay for) Any help would be appreciated. ~thanx~

www.lr-racing.com

they have a torque plate

I noticed that there really hasn't been a whole lot of discussion about torque plates in these forums. Well I plan on doing a rebuild this summer (going .20 over with Ross forged pistons, eagle rods, etc.) and I am completely undecided when it comes to whether or not to use torque plates when honing the cylinders. There are alot of machine shops in my area (between baltimore and dc) and I have heard varying opinions from quite a few machinists. There are some that say it is completely unecessary, because the cast iron will not stretch significantly while being strapped to the torque plate. Others say its absolutely essential for reliable, long term use. So what does everyone think about this issue? I for one think it is a good idea, but I want to hear about what others have seen and experienced.

http://www.teamnabr.com/ubbpub/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=002726#000000

GrocMax:
".002 out of round adjacent to the bolt bosses 1.25 to 1.5 inches deep with ARP studs.

.001 out of round on stock bolts."

Considering piston/wall clearances Ross calls for is in the range of .006 clearance, having your bores .002 out of whack can't be a good thing.

I would recommend a torque plate.

I would inisit on one.

Has anyone here actually bored their cylinders without a torque plate and had positive results? So far, everyone here seems to think that using a torque plate is the only way to go. Does anyone actually have any concrete evidence that using a torque plate on the cast 4g63 block improves performance (ring seal, out of round is lower, etc.) ?

Originally posted by sonicnofadz
Has anyone here actually bored their cylinders without a torque plate and had positive results?

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Yeah my 91 rod 95 piston motor didn’t have one. It just had a bit of blow by. Not really a big deal because it was only doing 117 traps and running 23lbs of boost. But if you do that with a forged piston motor running 30lbs of boost you are going to have premature wear along with blow by.

Originally posted by sonicnofadz
Does anyone actually have any concrete evidence that using a torque plate on the cast 4g63 block improves performance (ring seal, out of round is lower, etc.) ?

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Um hello look at the second post.

can someone please explain what torque plating is?

can someone please explain what torque plating is?

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A torque plate is a device that is bolted to the top of the block (just like the regular aluminum cylinder head) while honing the block. It simulates having a real head attached to it so the cylinder walls will stretch while it is on and hence it is supposed to make the cylinder walls much straighter after honing.

Originally posted by sonicnofadz
A torque plate is a device that is bolted to the top of the block (just like the regular aluminum cylinder head) while honing the block. It simulates having a real head attached to it so the cylinder walls will stretch while it is on and hence it is supposed to make the cylinder walls much straighter after honing.

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Yeah- it's a big ol' chunk of steel, usually 1½" or 2" thick that has holes cut out over the bores, and is bolted on and torqued down just like a head, then the block machining is done with that on it.

http://www.lmsspeed.com/PlateauHoning.htm

I guess it's worthwhile.... it's not done during production at the factory.

Originally posted by Defiant
I guess it's worthwhile.... it's not done during production at the factory.

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The factory also uses cast pistons on a motor only boosting 12lbs and only revving to 7k or so.

aha, I remember reading something like that on Jun's website.


http://www.junauto.co.jp/processing/explain/boring-horning.html

Yes, a torque plate is a good idea.

However, until recently I'd not been lucky enough to own one or be near a machine shop that did. So every motor that I built before then was done without a torque plate. I never once had a blow by problem due to the cylinders being out of round.

IMHO, .00xx is to small of a difference to really cause major problems for 99% of the people out there rebuilding an engine. The rings will always be pushed out to take the shape of the cyl. walls, this especially true after break-in. It is my opinion, that you will suffer more blowby through the ring end gaps then through the .00xx of difference we are talking about.

Use one , it is totally and completely necessary, if your machine shop doesn't use one go some place else.

http://www.takakaira.co.jp/performance/jun/engine/process.htm


at the bottom is a example.

Originally posted by rdrkt
The factory also uses cast pistons on a motor only boosting 12lbs and only revving to 7k or so.

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And they still hold up to a lot more abuse than they should have to.

I like Jun's "dummy head".