Just a little heads up for those who run the Forge BOV.

This is the third season I have had this BOV on my car, works great holds lots of boost.

The other day while doing a Boost Leak test I discoverd that there was a massive leak from the BOV, it was coming from where the BOV Body meets the BOV Flange.





I contacted Forge and they sad there was an O-ring in there that must have gone bad. I could have mailed it back to them and had them replace it but I didn't want the down time and I figured I would get it fixed permanently. I pulled it all apart and took it to my local shop and had them weld it so it will never leak again.

Interesting. I'll have to see how mine holds up!

Edit: On second thought, I think I'll take it to my muffler shop & have it welded so I won't have to worry about it..thanks for the heads up!

Will that cause any problems in the future if the BOV needs to be taken apart again?

herostar said:

Will that cause any problems in the future if the BOV needs to be taken apart again?

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I don't see why I would need to take that part of the BOV apart. The top unbolts so you can change springs but the part that is welded just holds the BOV flange to the BOV Body.

it would only need taken apart if you wanted a diff flange for another car. or if you wanted to change it to the atomospheric dump model. The one that a friend of mine has doesnt have a normal dump tube instead it has 1/4 inch holes the whole way around the base just above the flange.

The Forge is a good bov, If I wouldn't have drilled my 1g flange to accomodate my Type-s I would have bought the forge. Welding it is a good idea.

I pulled it all apart and took it to my local shop and had them weld it so it will never leak again.

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My brand new Forge BOV is leaking a tiny amount from that spot. Do I need to take it apart to remove that rubber O-ring where it meets the flang, or can they just weld it with it in there.

Also, the whole thing is made of aluminum, right? I won't be able to take it to any old muffler shop, will I? Isn't welding aluminum a little more tricky?

I would take it apart and remove the O-ring just so it doesn't melt or anything, be sure to mark it so when you put it back togther the outlet is facing the right way.

Any good welder should be able to do it.

that is the first time i have seen a Forge BOV have an issue like that. I can't even tell you how many EVOs and STIs we have built with the RS series. Great products. Glad you were able to get that fixed up though. happy boostin.

Thanks for that "heads up" I just got mine the other day and I had a chance to leak test it on an extra bov pipe before I put it in the car and sure enough...mine leaks in the same spot too.
I like the fact that the recirc tube rotates though, so I'm in the process of making a gasket(s) to keep the flexibility but without the leak. That rubber o-ring just isn't doing anything to stop it from leaking there. Great design and good looking DV though.
I'll post back with results...whether the gasket(s) work or not for those who have it and want it to rotate (never know when that might come in handy )

Yep....mine was leaking there pretty much right away too. I, however, am a hack. JB Welded it like a champ.....holding fine so far. I'll probably have it really welded sometime when the car is gonna be down for a bit.

I think it to be a normal thing for that DV since the bottom rotated fairly easily from the git go.
I have made two gaskets from a roll of gasket material from Checkers, not the cork type, and added some RTV just to be sure and it has worked. I capped off the two ends of the BOV tube with my leak tester and the DV held to 21 psi. Although it did dip after 10 seconds to 18psi but I didn't hear a hiss like before, I take it that it's a tiny leak still.
Oh yeah, I made a gasket for the junction point and where the nut sits on the rubber o-ring (just to make sure I guess, ), I don't think that one was needed as much as the one I put where the two surfaces mate up.

Just to pass along for anyone looking in on this...

patty AT forge said:

Saw your post about the Forge BOV leaking but I cannot reply due to account limitations.

In your case, with the bottom nut so loose that the valve can rotate, leaking would be expected. The bottom nut needs to be tightened fully in order for the o-ring to seal properly, we have a special tool for it but a snapring plier can be used.

Just trying to chase down the cause for possible problems, as far as I know CanadianTSI's o-ring blowing out is the only such failure that we have had with this valve, so I'd like to determine the cause of your leak. Any input would be appreciated. And our products are covered by a lifetime warranty so if you feel it to be a problem we can get you squared away.

If you could post this PM on the thread that would be a huge help to me, I'd like to see if anyone else will chime in if they know that a Forge rep is going to see it.

Thanks
Patrick

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Actually Patrick, I've tightened it down quite a bit, it doesn't rotate with the nut tightened down (I can see where my wording may have led to that, sorry).
Here's my experience Patrick...with the nut tightened down and before any modifications (I did receive the DV with the bottom half loose, not from you guys though), the DV would allow a leak after 15psi. I made a gasket that I put inbetween the body and the flange adapter and I also made one that I put inbetween the nut and the adapter (so that one sandwiched the rubber o-ring also). After I tightened the nut, it still leaked, so I put RTV on the gasket that went inbetween the body and adapter and that made a better seal...I tightened it back down and leak checked it and voila
I just don't think that the rubber o-ring expanded enough to seal the along the outside opening and with not having the correct tool, it was hard to judge how tight it really was. I can see it sealing the inner lines, but not the outer lines....sorry for the terminology on that one, but you know what I mean Patrick
I was probably being redundant, but I also put teflon tape on the threads of the nut, so I guess that makes 2 gaskets and thread sealer to keep mine from leaking. I wish I had taken pictures but there was a domino affect in play and I didn't want to lose my momentum
My last check proved good. The tube does not rotate in it's current state, but that will be a good check, to see if the nut has come loose in the future.

...for everyone else, my posts are not rants, this for anyone who is looking into this DV/BOV or who has it and has similar issues with it and how to fix it or at least get a direction on where to start. This is also to help Forge in their R&D.

Here's some post from Talk. Patrick doesn't have privilages over here yet, so I'll help out for you guys that don't go over there.
If you guys with the Forge unit have any inputs on this, I'm sure Patrick and the other guys at Forge would appreciate it for R&D purposes.

patty AT forge said:

We will have revised lock-rings available in the next few weeks that should cure the problem. If anyone experiences this problem let us know and we will send you the new part as soon as they are available.

Patrick

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silvercoupe97 said:

I may take one of those as long as a special tool or snap ring pliers aren't used to tighten them down .
I like the fact that the tube rotates to wherever you want/need it to point, I hope they don't redesign that out. I think a gasket would be helpful though and a wider rubber o-ring though.

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patty AT forge said:

silvercoupe97

The only difference in the new-lock ring will be that the holes for the tool will not pass all the way through. The thought being that the existing holes allow the charge air to reach the outer part of the o-ring groove and, as you noted, the o-ring does not seal against that surface. I suggested a thicker diameter o-ring but the engineers feared that that would prevent the lock-ring from being tightened sufficiently and result in it backing out from vibration.

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silvercoupe97 said:

Not having the two holes go through the lock ring is a good idea, that helps eliminate air passages. Another idea (that I used) is a gasket sandwiched between the DV body and DV flange would do well too, that way the lock ring doesn't have to be redesigned ...or a wider (not thicker) rubber o-ring that goes from the threaded area to the outer ring. IMO, the gasket is an easier fix and does away with any redesigning lock ring since the charged air can still pass through the outer and inner rings of the lock...(umm) ring
The lock ring can be tightened down pretty well if you turn the upper body in the opposite direction (think of a bolt and it's nut to help visualize this) to help, that's how I got mine to tighten down (along with tightening the ring too). I think that a dab of blue loctite on the lock ring and threads, after it's been tightened and leak tested, will ease any fear of the ring backing out (wait for the loctite to dry before testing it on the car of course).

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BTW, I'm not sponsored by Forge, I'd just like to help or ease any concerns with this piece for no other reason than to have more DV/BOV options...oh and I like mine

Glad to see they are stepping up and fixing this, to Forge.

I just got there non recirculating BOV and it leaked badly at the same spot as every one else's. I JB welded it and it works fine so far. Ugly but as long as it doesn't leak I'm happy.

I don't mean to bring this thread back up, but I just wanted to let you guys know that I had the same problem with mine. They sent me another one and I had the same problem again, well I contacted them the last time and they told me others were having the same issue and that they had the new lock-rings available soon. Well they sent me a brand new bov and I boost checked it last night and it held up to 25psi without a problem. I guess I just get to keep the old one.

Glad to hear the we got you squared away

I also had the same problem with mine leaking between the bov and flange. I discovered that the actual problem is the lock ring is just pressed into a hole in the flange that is generated with and end mill. To form a proper seal this hole would have to be bored, not generated. It would have to be slightly smaller than the lock ring. Then they could dip the lock ring into liquid nitrogen and drop it in the hole, when the ring warmed back up it would seal good and never leak or come loose.

You don't have to make your bov look ugly to fix it. What I did was mark the lock ring for proper placement. Then I removed it from the flange. I roughed the hole in the flange and the outside of the lock ring with scotch bright. Then used JB weld (a small bead aroung the inside of the hole) and carefully pressed the lock ring in and held it with a c clamp. Make sure to put something on the clamp so you dont scratch up your parts. After an hour or so I put a small amount of JB weld into the 2 holes.

After it all dried I screwed the base back on and installed the bov, and no leaks.

That's pretty clever Kanderson

Just for folks searching this topic...
Forge did make a revision to this DV. The lock ring still has the two holes, but it no longer goes all the way through. It no longer leaks....unless the lock ring is loose

If anyone experiences this problem just contact us and we will get you taken care of. It should only apply to a relatively small number of the valves out there as the earlier design of the valve had an o-ring between the flange and the valvebody.

Sorry about not having the pics up yet Pat. I keep forgetting to take a pic of the lock ring. I will though

Patty AT, where do i get mine? And if i order from anywhere on the net and the lockring isnt the revised type, can i get a replacement lock ring from forge?

mhuffman said:

Patty AT, where do i get mine? And if i order from anywhere on the net and the lockring isnt the revised type, can i get a replacement lock ring from forge?

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Look here. Just send the RV to the address I gave with a short note explaining what the problem is (don't forget to put down your contact information). Patrick will take care of the rest.

mhuffman said:

Patty AT, where do i get mine? And if i order from anywhere on the net and the lockring isnt the revised type, can i get a replacement lock ring from forge?

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If the company you order from has has stock sitting for some time you may get the old style, if that is the case you can send the valve to us and we will do the swap or we can send the revised part to you. But more than likely we will drop ship the part to you in which case it will have the newer lock ring already installed.