The factory alarm system is still hooked up and assumes that: when you unlock it with your remote, someone is actually jacking it with a coat hanger. Either find a way to disable the factory alarm or just use your key to unlock (what I'm doing since I have no clue when it comes to dsm electrics).

No_Skillz said:

The factory alarm system is still hooked up and assumes that: when you unlock it with your remote, someone is actually jacking it with a coat hanger. Either find a way to disable the factory alarm or just use your key to unlock (what I'm doing since I have no clue when it comes to dsm electrics).

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and how do I go about disengaging factory alarm? I just want my remote to lock and unlock doors!

RedRex02 said:

and how do I go about disengaging factory alarm? I just want my remote to lock and unlock doors!

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Well on the 2Gs the factory disarm is green with white and has a negative pulse. Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder. You can also use the passenger door key cylinder which is brown/red (-) in the passenger kick, door harness. Tie this wire ( green with white) to ground to permanently disable the factory alarm. Hope this helps...if not you can pm me for any alarm/security questions

Seano04 said:

Well on the 2Gs the factory disarm is green with white and has a negative pulse. Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder. You can also use the passenger door key cylinder which is brown/red (-) in the passenger kick, door harness. Tie this wire ( green with white) to ground to permanently disable the factory alarm. Hope this helps...if not you can pm me for any alarm/security questions

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So take the green and white wire coming from the key cylinder from the drivers door, ground it out, and this will disable the factory alarm, for both driver and passenger door. Do I need to do both doors or just one?

either one would work

Seano04 said:

either one would work

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Ok, lemme throw this snag in there... I did not fix the passenger side yet, so when I was working on it today, the passenger side was unlocked the whole time. So when I shut both doors, passenger was unlocked and stayed unlocked, then when I locked and unlocked it with the remote, and opened the driver door, the alarm went off. Should I try to fix the passenger first, so both doors are locking and unlocking at the same time, then tackle the green/white wire hack...?

yea, get your actuators in and everything wired into the aftermarket alarm. then just ground that wire, green with white, and that'll just disable your factory alarm.

Seano04 said:

yea, get your actuators in and everything wired into the aftermarket alarm. then just ground that wire, green with white, and that'll just disable your factory alarm.

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Is there any way I will be able to keep the factory alarm?

what kind of system are you installing? because sometimes they have a feature that will allow you to connect your new aftermarket alarm with the factory one. so read up on it or let me know. i've put more in than i care to count

Have you considered just taking it to a local Stereo shop and having them diagnose the problem? What brand system did you get? DSM's are rather picky when it comes to working with the electronics, especially if you don't know what your doing...oh, and yes it is possible to keep the factory alarm if you know how to wire it correctly, my aftermarket system works quite well with my factory one, the system I purchased came with a wiring diagram just for my model and year car, as well as general instruction manual. I had mine professionally installed so I wouldn't screw it up (which I probably would have done) Its really extremely hard to diagnose this through the internet, It may cost a few bucks, but the stereo shop is probably the best option. A reputeable shop will warranty their work if not the system.

Seano04 said:

what kind of system are you installing? because sometimes they have a feature that will allow you to connect your new aftermarket alarm with the factory one. so read up on it or let me know. i've put more in than i care to count

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I am just putting in new atuators...
Here is EXACTLY, down to the EXACT part, what I did.
http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135218

Jon

if i remember correctly...leave the plug to the stock actuator unplugged and the stock security will have no reason to turn on. also like someone else mentioned...grounding the green/white wire will disable the stock security...i thought the stock security actually would not activate unless you locked the car w/ the doors open...let me know how it goes

anumeric said:

if i remember correctly...leave the plug to the stock actuator unplugged and the stock security will have no reason to turn on. also like someone else mentioned...grounding the green/white wire will disable the stock security...i thought the stock security actually would not activate unless you locked the car w/ the doors open...let me know how it goes

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If I understand this pulse correctly, it needs a pulse from both passenger and driver door. Therefore due to the fact that the passenger is still on a bad actuator(not locking or unlocking) it is not getting the pulse from the remote since it will not lock and unlock. Now since only the driver side was working, it only got one pulse out of two?
Doies this sound right. I do not see why, when I fix the passenger actuator, that I should have to disconnect the alarm system. It seems that many people did the write up I did and never ran into this problem. I think it is due to the fast that I only did one side(driver)...
Tell me if this is right

Jon

i did not know you still had one dead actuator...i'm no genium at dsm electronics (i don't even own a dsm anymore) but that is probably your issue...try it out and let us know how it works out for you

RedRex02 said:

Is there any way I will be able to keep the factory alarm?

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I can't tell you how to do it as mine was installed at a shop, but when my Clifford was installed back in 98 they supposedly disabled the factory alarm. However, since day one if you left either door open and hit the Clifford remote, the factory "security" light would come on and the factory alarm would arm and would require the key to get in without the horn blaring. So somehow they have both working depending on which remote I use. This came in handy after the last project as the last Clifford remote I had took a dump on me. I already had it in valet when I started the project and fortunately it remembers the last setting. Right now I use the factory alarm with the Clifford in valet mode until I can get another set of remotes.

Well hooked up other actuator, had em both unlocked when installed and now it works like a charm. Oh how beautiful it is to have Power Locks again! And the factory theft system is still in tact and ready to go!
THANKS guys for all your fast help!!!!
Jon

glad to see everything worked out for you...i know the feeling...i bought my car without working power door locks and it took me a year and a half before i got myself to attempt to fix it...is there anything you think i should add to the write-up to make it more helpful?

anumeric said:

glad to see everything worked out for you...i know the feeling...i bought my car without working power door locks and it took me a year and a half before i got myself to attempt to fix it...is there anything you think i should add to the write-up to make it more helpful?

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Hmmmm, atleast for my 97, the wires you need to splice into are the blue/red and blue/black. They are located along the bottom of the door. If I remember correctly,(might be switched, could just use a test light and lock, unlock doors with remote, make sure to have doors closed when testing, wont work if dorrs are open) the green wire on the actuator went to the blue/black, and the blue wire went to the red/blue....


Add my name to that write up
Hope that helps a bit more