Just want a bit more opinions on this.
I have a 2.4 . No balance shafts,no oil squirters.

Still thinking to port my relief hole a bit in my filter housing.

Did you port yours in your 2.4?
And any problems with high oil pressure if you didn't?

You should do it. Start small because you can always make it bigger if it is not enough.

Yeah I started small and had to do it 2 times, but it was worth it. I got my oil pressure in check, and stopped blowing out front cover gaskets. Making the hole larger isn't neccesarily the goal. You want to port the hole "upwards" toward the top of the piston.

I ported it ..a reasonable amount and more toward the end plug like was shown and mentioned. I also figured its not that hard to take it off and do it more if need be.I figure it should be fine and made triple sure no burrs and the piston went in smoothly.
I actually had a buddy that owns a speed shop do it and he has the tools and does a real good job of things.

can anyone shed some light on porting the relief valve? I've not had much luck searching the forums for an awnser. my pressure is way to high and pushing oil out from the seals (slightly).

any advice on porting the relief valve?


[edit]
More searching gave me http://www.utdsm.org/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album12, problem solved;

Suparata said:

You should do it. Start small because you can always make it bigger if it is not enough.

Click to expand...

Hey Mitch, I would just go to town with it the first time, I don't think you can go too big (while staying below the plunger) since the valve should stay closed until the spring pressure is overcome. I ported my almost as large as the first picture on the above link the first time, no problems at all.

oldman said:

Hey Mitch, I would just go to town with it the first time

Click to expand...

Think you would of spell-checked your 7,000th post

I don't know what you're talking about. Moderating power rules.

I took some photos of the entire process. Used a caliper to measure the hole diameter before, mid way & after the final port & polish job.

Since this was my first time porting and polishing (trying to at least), I snapped some photos of a test area on the oil fliter housing. Anyhow... for me, porting this valve worked.

Inital Port - 8mm +/-


Final Port - 12mm x 11mm +/-


The rest of the photos
http://www.ap-r.com/trav/09-22-06-relief-valve/

Great information, is there a "safe" oil pressurethat is ideal to run at? I realize everyone's setup is different, but is there a certain amount of pressure you want to stay below in order to prevent blowing seals/gaskets?

kicker91laser said:

Great information, is there a "safe" oil pressurethat is ideal to run at? I realize everyone's setup is different, but is there a certain amount of pressure you want to stay below in order to prevent blowing seals/gaskets?

Click to expand...

Approximately 10 psi per 1k rpm.

oldman said:

Approximately 10 psi per 1k rpm.

Click to expand...

Thanks Bruce, I take it that is at full operating temp?

kicker91laser said:

Thanks Bruce, I take it that is at full operating temp?

Click to expand...

Yes, pressure will be higher during cold starts.

Hey guys its been awhile since Ive been on here. I have a 2.4 in my 99 gsx. I noticed my factory oil pressure gauge was running high and I heard that these engines run High oil pressure when you remove the balance shafts and have no oil squirters. SO.... I installed my greddy oil pressure gauge and its HIGH AS SHIT! at 2500 rpm all warmed up and driving it running 80 psi! and it goes all the way up to 115-120psi. Do you guys think I hurt anything? Its a totally new setup with only 400 babied miles. Let me know what you think and if I port the relief hole will this totally solve my problem thanks.

Yes, as long as it's done right.

Do you still need to port the relief hole if you are still using oil squirters but have removed the balance shafts.Im building a 2.3 stroker and from what I've read you can bend the squirters out of the way slightly to clear everything. Just wondering if this is needed.

I've noticed my oil psi isn't anywhere close to as bad as it use to be. i've been driving on this 'mod' for a few days now - the pressure would hit x-psi at half throttle and hang there for a few - it doesn't anymore. i'm going to build another stroker and try a different porting method (closer to the oil-entry inside the relief clyinder).

watch some parts whore start selling this on eBay ;]

...i wonder if clipping the spring could help? any thoughts?

My motor is stock, and when cruising at 80 or so, my stock gauge is reading right at 9 o'clock, please tell me that's normal.
I don't have my A/M gauge hooked up yet, so I didn't know numerically what psi it was.

I just did a BSE, and I plan to port my oil relief.

d_j, when you reassembled your oil relief plunger and spring, was there much load from the spring as you unscrewed the plug
?
Or did it fit in there nicely and once you threaded the plug in, it compressed the spring some?
I wouldn't clip it unless you think you can without causing the spring to have slop, and not hold the plunger up.

My old GST was a 2.0 with a BSE, and my stock gauge read as high as the second to last mark on the gauge.
That's way too high.

d j said:

...i wonder if clipping the spring could help? any thoughts?

Click to expand...

Nope that wouldn't do it. That would only make the bypass open at a lower pressure. It wouldn't increase flow. The problem is flow out of the oil relief hole is restricted due to the size. The oil backs up and cause the pressure to increase. It's the same principle as over running the stock fuel pressure regulator with a huge fuel pump.

d j said:

I've noticed my oil psi isn't anywhere close to as bad as it use to be. i've been driving on this 'mod' for a few days now - the pressure would hit x-psi at half throttle and hang there for a few - it doesn't anymore. i'm going to build another stroker and try a different porting method (closer to the oil-entry inside the relief clyinder).

watch some parts whore start selling this on eBay ;]

Click to expand...

So what's the problem with the oil pressure after the porting? Is it still too high?

There's a link in this thread with some pictures, that's about how I did mine and it works well.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=222778&highlight=relief

I did a 12mm-diameter hole (more of an oval with the apex at the piston side);

The pressure is a little high, doesn't mean its `the word/truth` but until I install a trustworthy gauge.... At the same time I'm also wondering how the dual b.b. turbo is living under these conditions.

I'll post (again) the photos I took using a digital caliper messuring the dia of the hole i made. it did drop the pressure almost 40% but to be stress-free, i am shooting for another 10% - 15% drop over all;

I ported another filter housing for the drag car, tried to do a max-port-job on it; I haven't ran it yet but it looks to be an almost perfect job.

I did my porting job last week and my oil press. is still high. Not as high, but still high. It dropped maybe 15 psi overall. I ported it pretty good, I guess I gotta do it again.

d j said:

At the same time I'm also wondering how the dual b.b. turbo is living under these conditions.

Click to expand...

A BB turbo should be fed from the head so oil pressure shouldn't be an issue.

oldman said:

A BB turbo should be fed from the head so oil pressure shouldn't be an issue.

Click to expand...

You can also feed from the filter housing if you use a restrictor.