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Questions about AFPR

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BlackbirdOfPrey

15+ Year Contributor
435
1
Dec 4, 2003
Shiloh,
I am about to purchase an AFPR to go with the 255 hp walbro and rewire that have already been done and I have a few quick questions.

1. I have read a few things that suggest the aeromotive AFPR may leak pressure, is this true? and if so can you reccomend another unit that is similar and wont leak? Or can this be cured easy? (teflon tape, sealant, o ring, etc....)
2. I am getting/making a ss return kit that goes off of the rail back to the regulator (all -6 AN fittings) but I was wondering what to do about from the filter to the regulator? Should I replace this as well? Or should I leave it, and if I do, what do I need to make the rubber fuel hose attatch to the regulator?
 
BlackbirdOfPrey said:
I am about to purchase an AFPR to go with the 255 hp walbro and rewire that have already been done and I have a few quick questions.

1. I have read a few things that suggest the aeromotive AFPR may leak pressure, is this true? and if so can you reccomend another unit that is similar and wont leak? Or can this be cured easy? (teflon tape, sealant, o ring, etc....)
2. I am getting/making a ss return kit that goes off of the rail back to the regulator (all -6 AN fittings) but I was wondering what to do about from the filter to the regulator? Should I replace this as well? Or should I leave it, and if I do, what do I need to make the rubber fuel hose attatch to the regulator?

1. I have done pretty extensive testing of my fuel system and am under the impression that the leaking of pressure is from the o-ring in the Walbro fuel pump, but have not tested specifically for that yet. The Aeromotive unit is a highly used unit on DSMs with great success though.

2. The rail feed is the one you want to be more concerned with as the banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter is the restrictive point. SBR make a kit for both rail feed and return that has all the parts needed.

Jim
 
AFPR is a good unit as well as the walbro 255.. I had walbro 255 in every dsm i owned and it works fantastic. the AFPR is widely used by dsmers as said by montoya i think you shouldn't have a problem with it as long as you buy from reputable company. not a knock off product.

I used stock return and it worked great for all of my setups.
 
Go with the Aeromotive. I have it. Rises nose on 1:1 with my boost. Have 5000+ miles on it. Easy to adjust. Nice looking piece... No one has any lagitimate negatives about this AFPR.
 
BlackbirdOfPrey said:
2. I am getting/making a ss return kit that goes off of the rail back to the regulator (all -6 AN fittings) but I was wondering what to do about from the filter to the regulator? Should I replace this as well? Or should I leave it, and if I do, what do I need to make the rubber fuel hose attatch to the regulator?

Correct me if i'm wrong, but there is no line going from the filter to the regulator. The regulator goes on the return side of the rail. So it goes Tank>Filter>Rail>Regulator>Return to tank
 
Mitsu90GSX said:
Correct me if i'm wrong, but there is no line going from the filter to the regulator. The regulator goes on the return side of the rail. So it goes Tank>Filter>Rail>Regulator>Return to tank


LOL i didnt even notice he said filter to regulator, yeah the fuel is filtered before going into the fuel rail
 
Mitsu90GSX said:
Correct me if i'm wrong, but there is no line going from the filter to the regulator. The regulator goes on the return side of the rail. So it goes Tank>Filter>Rail>Regulator>Return to tank

DOH! That is a misprint, thanks for catching it, the correct question is what sort of fitting do I use for rubber line going into an -6 AN port? Do I use a barb type fitting?
 
RiceKiller_TSi said:
I've been considering purchasing the FTS AFPR but was wondering if it is a true 1:1 rising rate regulator. Do you know if it is?


Yes it is. You can also raise and lower your fuel pressure.

I just used the barb fitting that came with the regulator to connect everything and didnt have a problem. Make sure that when you buy a FPR to get a gauge kit along with it.
 
Just got the FTS afpr in the mail today. Gonna install it tonight with the guage. It didn't come with installation instructions but it looks pretty self explanatory to me. Would be nice to have a vfaq for newbies though.

I may take lots of pics of my install just for that purpose.
 
ya theres no instructions because its very self explanitory..unless you dont know where the stock FPR is?? LOL

post some pics of when you get it done.
 
Yeah, the install was mad easy. Now that this thing is installed my car runs stupid rich even at stock fuel pressure... go figure.
 

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BlackbirdOfPrey said:
1. I have read a few things that suggest the aeromotive AFPR may leak pressure, is this true?
Taflon the adjustment rod, gauge fitting and the vacuum fitting.
 
oldman said:
Taflon the adjustment rod, gauge fitting and the vacuum fitting.

This is exactly what I did as well right off the bat. I couldn't tell you if it would have leaked as it was out of the box. I never gave it a chance to leak. I tefloned everything before it even went on the car!
 
Okay so when I get my 650's, AFPR, SAFC, and 255 and get it bolted on in my driveway.......Is it goign to be safe to drive it roughly an hour to go to the shop to get it tuned or should I just drive it down there and then put the fuel system in/on in the parking lot?
 
TurkF26 said:
what psi are you running?? you sure its the stock psi???

Its at 37psi. But it really shouldn't matter if its off a few psi because I've got the maft setup for adjusting that. I think I've got something else going on now because my car wont stay running anymore unless I press the accelerator to keep it going. I know its rich cause I can smell it. :(
 
larsrya8 said:
37 psi with the vac line off?

Actually the vacuum line WAS connected but the engine was not running when I set the pressure. I just activated the fuel pump and set the pressure to 37psi.

Also even if the pressure was lets say 47psi the engine should still be able to idle without running rough and dying out considering I can compensate for larger injectors with the maft. I have 580's but even adjusting for 700cc's it still wont idle. It starts up IMMEDIATELY but then dies after 3 seconds unless I put my foot on the gas. I checked the timing marks and they line up. I checked the ignition timing (as best as I could considering it wont idle) and its still near where I set it.
 
What are you tuning the maft with? Logger? What is your vacuum and fuel pressure reading at idle?
 
oldman said:
What are you tuning the maft with? Logger? What is your vacuum and fuel pressure reading at idle?

Yeah, tuning with the maf translator and logger. Vacuum is near 18-22 at idle (right before it cuts off) fuel pressure is at 37psi when the car is running and it raises like a champ when boost is seen.

If the rpms stay above 1k it runs fine but the engine seems to get flooded with anything below that. Its weird. I'm going to go home tonite and either fix it or push it into the ditch at the end of the street.
 
At first I thought it was just a boost leak so I tested then I disconnected the fuel pressure solenoid to eliminate a possible boost/vac leak there as well. All is well on the intake side so I shot some seafoam in there to see if I had any exhaust leaks. Well I did, so I took off the manifold and fixed the leaks there. Only thing I havent done is to remove the downpipe to see if theres an orange in there.
 
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