I currently have a Big T28 and the outlet faces the passenger side. I have a side to side FMIC that I want to mount and I'm curious as to how people have tackled this issue. Thanks guys.

-Drew

I have seen a guy who had the compressor outlet cut off and welded on in the other direction. Other than that the only other option I can come up would be a tight radius 180* bend from the compressor outlet to get back to the drivers side.

--Anson

Here you go.
Let me find a close-up of the tight 180..

First bend is of 2" pipe. This goes on top of the motor mount, with a little fan trimming

Hey! Nice find! Who sells that? Can you get the piping by itself?

Looks like the JR 7'' kit. Am I right?

Yeah, this is the ETS kit "extreme turbo systems", (which is the website) a.k.a. the JR kit. Usually has an auction or two on ebay. Piping by itself might be available, however its not advertised. I would email to inquire, the dude always replies, to me anyhow.

If I recall correctly, and I probably don't, I remember seeing (on tuners) that the piping was available for 350??? I'm sure the info is here.

Just a heads up, if you're looking for just piping, check out Victory Performance. They advertise just the pipes, although the kit lacks the 180* piece. They suggest cutting and rotating the turbo outlet, as UMR98GSX suggested.

One more thing, you might look into doing it yourself, which tuners love to suggest JCW among others sell mandrel bends, including "tight radius bends." The parts are out there..

UofACATS said:

Yeah, this is the ETS kit "extreme turbo systems", (which is the website) a.k.a. the JR kit. Usually has an auction or two on ebay. Piping by itself might be available, however its not advertised. I would email to inquire, the dude always replies, to me anyhow.

If I recall correctly, and I probably don't, I remember seeing (on tuners) that the piping was available for 350??? I'm sure the info is here.

Just a heads up, if you're looking for just piping, check out Victory Performance. They advertise just the pipes, although the kit lacks the 180* piece. They suggest cutting and rotating the turbo outlet, as UMR98GSX suggested.

Click to expand...

Please give a nice review of this FMIC and some pics would be nice when you get it installed. It's $700 shipped right?

Would that JR 7" kit fit a greddy 18r fmic, as well?

I've got a FP Big28 too, and picked up the greddy fmic without any pipes. Am I screwed?

If I were you I would cut off the compressor outlet elbow and then use a 110* bend to point the outlet in the other direction.

Before:
http://dsm.dejonpowerhouse.com/edit/2-03_T25-cut.jpg

After:
http://dsm.dejonpowerhouse.com/edit/2-03_T25-Pipe.jpg

Dejon sells this pipe for $20 or you can make your own. I think its funny as hell to see those tight 180* bends. They are restrictive and as a result they cause pressure drop...

Turbocharged said:

If I were you I would cut off the compressor outlet elbow and then use a 110* bend to point the outlet in the other direction.

Before:
http://dsm.dejonpowerhouse.com/edit/2-03_T25-cut.jpg

After:
http://dsm.dejonpowerhouse.com/edit/2-03_T25-Pipe.jpg

Dejon sells this pipe for $20 or you can make your own. I think its funny as hell to see those tight 180* bends. They are restrictive and as a result they cause pressure drop...

Click to expand...

What additional info do you have on the restriction/pressure drop? Im interested.

Look at your before picture. See the "bead" on the end of the elbow? This helps keep the intercooler piping from blowing off and/or leaking boost.
Some people try to connect intercooler pipes without beading, guess what happens..

When I posed this question to Victory Performance, they said: Cut, rotate, weld.

I would cut/rotate/weld...in the end it would be the easiest and most effect solution, plus then you could weld on a reducer to get the ~2" outlet to the size you want...

And JFYI, this spring when I did my own IC piping I got a hold of the JR guys and they said like ~$350 for the entire piping set, no MAFT, greddy/1g bov flange, t bolt clamps, couplers, and powder coated to my liking, I think the MAFT setup was like another $50 or so. I ended up doing it myself for WAY less... But $350 for all that isn't a bad deal at all either...

And for the guy with the GReddy 18r FMIC, you are going to either have to make your own piping or buy GReddy stuff b/c that FMIC uses same sided exits, ie the bottom outlet goes to your turbo outlet and the driver side outlet that faces to the passenger side needs to be routed either to the stock SMIC location, ORRRRRRR, if you were clever , you would run about a 18" pipe to a 90' bend and then short route it like the SBR/DejonTool FMIC setups go for 2g's and thus remove the sheetmetal below the headlight and cut out probably 2-3 feet of piping Do some searching and you'll find pics/info of what I'm talking about

how about going from turbo outlet and entering the passenger side intercooler, then out the driverside intercooler to the smic area, couldnt you avoid tight radius bends going that route?

i bought the ETS 7" kit, its a great kit. same kit as the one posted above, but together and on the car. the U bend pipe off the outlet is pretty easy to put on. all you gotta do is cut a small part of the fan guard.

funguy said:

i bought the ETS 7" kit, its a great kit. same kit as the one posted above, but together and on the car. the U bend pipe off the outlet is pretty easy to put on. all you gotta do is cut a small part of the fan guard.

Click to expand...

Will you post some underhood pics por favor? And a close up of the turbo outlet?

i only have one underhood pic at the moment, and its not that good a good pic. i have an email from ETS of their mock up of the kit and U bend as they were making it. i can forward it to you, just give me your email.

Derek

UofACATS said:

What additional info do you have on the restriction/pressure drop? Im interested.

Look at your before picture. See the "bead" on the end of the elbow? This helps keep the intercooler piping from blowing off and/or leaking boost.
Some people try to connect intercooler pipes without beading, guess what happens..

When I posed this question to Victory Performance, they said: Cut, rotate, weld.

Click to expand...

http://www.extenza-eps.com/ICE/doi/...S_EGToUIW6yAVN_z?cookieSet=1&journalCode=cerd

Pressure drop is a result of any flow restriction (ie bends). Its a basic fluid dynamic relationship. The sharper the bend the greater the tendancy toward pressure drop.

I agree with the cut, rotate and reweld method however the elbow will not be low enough and will point the outlet toward the downpipe. The outlet needs to be extended so that it bends to meet the intercooler outlet.

Also I dont run beaded piping. I use t-bolt clamps and have run up to 23 psi with absolutely no problems. Beading is nice but not required IMO.

I cut off the "curved" section and had the end welded back on so that the outlet now point straight down, and still has that beaded lip on the end of the turbo outlet. Works great for me.

So what option have you decided on?

i think itd be easier to run the pipe from the t28 outlet into the pass side of the fmic, and then out the drivers side, make a U turn, straight through the front of the engine bay, and up to the TB.

either way its going to have roughly the same amount of piping. but making it the way stated above sounds a bit easier, unless you can weld your own pipes.

btw a cheap ass place for piping is www.magnumforce.com. i build my fmic kit for 300 bucks.

Turbocharged said:

So what option have you decided on?

Click to expand...

Seeing as how I broke a goddamn turbo/mani bolt yesterday and the rest of them are probably going to break also, I'm just going to get the 57trim I've been wanting. Problem solved.

Its funny how some people just have the exact same problem as others......
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196644

Do what I did either get rid of it(like me)or take it out and hack it off and face it the other way. Right now I'm in the process of finishing my fmic install just waiting for the morning light to come out and let me put the finished pipes on there and install it again.Heres the link!
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200070

Thomas91169 said:

i think itd be easier to run the pipe from the t28 outlet into the pass side of the fmic, and then out the drivers side, make a U turn, straight through the front of the engine bay, and up to the TB.

either way its going to have roughly the same amount of piping. but making it the way stated above sounds a bit easier, unless you can weld your own pipes.

btw a cheap ass place for piping is www.magnumforce.com. i build my fmic kit for 300 bucks.

Click to expand...

Oh and as for doing this, that pipe in front of the engine(in mine at least) sits right next to the downpipe. And all I have to say is wow, that fcking pipe get so god damn hot when I drive cause of the location of the pipe and the heat off the downpipe so to run it back behind the fmic and in front of the down pipe would be ........ WTF . Yea dumb. Sometimes when I touch the exiting pipe on my fmic its too cold to touch and in the engine bay it gets hot again cause of the engine bay temps. But not to elude from the topic dont run extra pipe and especially not in front of the dpipe, i have to find a heat wrapping solution to my problem with that.

Anybody got pics of their SS/XS Power 2g fmic install (t25/28) that they want to share? Does it still position the bov in the same place?

Im getting anxious