I'm building a 2.37 stroker. I have all the supporting mods (fuel, electrial, turbo, etc...) I already have Oliver Rods and Wiseco Stroker Pistons. Any input on a crank would be helpful. Should I go with a Crower Billet Crank or will a stock 4g64 crank hold up fine?

Stock crank will work fine since it already is a forged crank.


Later

The stock crank has held 700+ whp so I think it will work for you.

not trying to go off the subject....i think this is kind of a good question too ask to.

I know that on SBR's sight they have lightened and balanced factory cranks. How do these hold up against stress after being lightened? Also is it recomended?

www.ffwdconnection.com

butcher crank

1250 for a new crank from butcher, seems unnecassary unless your brent rau.

well, i ordered my 4G64 crank from slowboy for about $350. sending it off next week to buschur for knife edging for another $300. $650 for a knife edged stroker crank ain't bad!!!

CAST iron? Somebody needs to change the title of this thread.

Mitsubishi crank will do the job and is the one I like better than the Hyundai one. However there are quite a few Hyundai cranks out there running pretty well but I can’t say for how long that will be.

For anyone who cares to know, Buschur just called me and said my crank was ready to ship (of course I sent it to them to knife edge and balance). Total was $315 shipped. Best deal I know of I'll try and post some pics when I get it in. Happy cause now I can get the bottom end put together

Suparata said:

CAST iron? Somebody needs to change the title of this thread.

Mitsubishi crank will do the job and is the one I like better than the Hyundai one. However there are quite a few Hyundai cranks out there running pretty well but I can’t say for how long that will be.

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well seeings how the hyundai cranks are the exact same thing as the mitsu cranks (since they were made by mitsu) they have the same strength. they are even nitrided the same. ive never heard of a 2.4 crank breaking in a non stroker enviroment (2.3). as far as strokers go im not sure how that would affect it(sideload), it being a hybrid and all.

Hyundai cranks are not the same thing as the Mitsu ones, they are not made by Mitsu and they don’t have the same hardness. There are 2.4 cranks that broke and a 2.3 is a 4G63 stroker.

Suparata said:

Hyundai cranks are not the same thing as the Mitsu ones, they are not made by Mitsu and they don’t have the same hardness. There are 2.4 cranks that broke and a 2.3 is a 4G63 stroker.

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hey "wiseman", here you go. MD080691 now tell me why that cross references with the hyundai g4cs part number? oh! lets see, maybe because they are the exact same casting from the exact same line? and yes they are nitrite hardened as i was shown this by my machinist whos built over 50 mitsu blocks in the last few years so i think he knows what he's talking about.

peregrine said:

ive never heard of a 2.4 crank breaking in a non stroker enviroment (2.3). as far as strokers go im not sure how that would affect it(sideload), it being a hybrid and all.

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you misunderstood this. i did word it kind of funky so your off the hook here.what i meant was ive never seen a 2.4 crank have problems in a 2.4 block (hybrid). ive inly heard of problems with a 2.4 crank in a 2.0 block (stroker) because of sideload problems. remember ive only "heard: this stuff never seen it so it could be bullshit.

What about differences in the 6 bolt and 7 bolt 2.4L engines? Do the 7 bolt blocks have the same design flaw that causes the 2G crankwalk? I've heard of very few actual crankwalk cases even though many claim it. Is the 2.4L built the same as the 2G 4G63? Not to get too off subject, but I was wanting to put a 2G head on a 2.4L block. If the 6 bolt (Hyundai) G4CS is stonger, will the 2G head bolt up the same? I havent really heard of anyone putting a 2G head on a 1G 4G63, but Magnus likes the 2G head on their 2.4L engines. Is it a bolt on like the 1G head? Just trying to figure this out before I start to order parts.

From what I've gathered about the crank's differences is this. They are Nitrated but not as thick. So they don't have the same hardness. Hell you could try and cryo a crank. Not to sure if it would make it to hard and brittle. The Forged cranks out their are very expensive. About 99.5% of the tuners population would have no need for a forged crank. I think the stock crank is steel and not cast. I thought about a forged crank but then decided it was a waste of cash as I don't think I'll ever put down more than 1000HP. I'm shooting for 600-650 turbo and 850-900 with Nitrous, but that is like a few more years of saving up for parts.

peregrine said:

hey "wiseman", here you go. MD080691 now tell me why that cross references with the hyundai g4cs part number? oh! lets see, maybe because they are the exact same casting from the exact same line? and yes they are nitrite hardened as i was shown this by my machinist whos built over 50 mitsu blocks in the last few years so i think he knows what he's talking about.

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This type of response is not necessary and can be considered flamebait. Let's try and be a little less confrontational in the future please. I'd like to leave this thread open so that we can get to the bottom of this topic. If anyone loses their cool and acts like a troll we'll delete their posts and suspend their account. Post good info, not good insults please.

Ludachris said:

This type of response is not necessary and can be considered flamebait. Let's try and be a little less confrontational in the future please. I'd like to leave this thread open so that we can get to the bottom of this topic. If anyone loses their cool and acts like a troll we'll delete their posts and suspend their account. Post good info, not good insults please.

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so the spread of misinformation is good info? i posted something and he refuted it. he was wrong so i gave him irrefutable facts. yeah i rubbed it in that he was wrong but if i didnt i wouldnt be american. maybe we should change the name of the site to le' dsmtuners?

We know that Hyundai bought the rights to the designs of several Mitsu engines, since this is public record. What many people are unsure of is whether Hyundai uses actual Mitsu cranks or they have their own made using the same design.

How sure are you that Hyundai and Mitsu cranks actually come from the same source? What evidence do you have for this? That they share replacement part numbers is not convincing to me and just saying the opposite of somebody is not the same as refuting. Give us the data, please. And calm down and do it politely.

- Jtoby

sorry, i did my part. if the cross reference isnt enough for you guys you can do your own footwork. maybe you could spend the money on two brand new cranks and take it to a metallurgist just so you could prove me wrong.

Are you saying that the entirety of your evidence is the fact that Mitsu and Hyundai use the same part numbers? That does not seem to be very much. Did you know that just about every maker of oil filters uses the same part numbers for filters that fit a given car? Does that mean that all these filters are the exact same thing?

I'm sorry, but you need more than this. Please don't run away now and say that I have to get two cranks and test them, etc. You made the strong claim that they are the same. I want to know the basis of this claim. For all I know, you are correct, but, as of now, you are only giving an opinion and nothing more.

- Jtoby

Since I posted earlier about the crank I was getting knife edged and balanced by Bushur, I figured this would be a good place to post my update. I just received it over the weekend and to say the least, I'm not real happy right now...in a nice way of putting it. Even e-mailed them last night about it and was trying to write it in a nice way even though I'm really at the moment. Anyway, I'll let the pictures and the e-mail I sent speak for itself.

This is what I received....







And here's the e-mail I sent to them in response (I'll post an update when/if I find out something from them)...

Hey Jarrod,
I just received my crankshaft over the weekend. And there's a BIG problem. When speaking to Nick on the phone I had asked him about getting it knife edged and balanced. I told him that I had looked at other places and they take about 7 pounds off the crank and that's what I wanted done. He told me that that's what you guys would do. Well, I got it back and all that was done was knife edging. Maybe a pound was taken off if that. My main reason for even wanting to get it done was because I wanted the weight taken off cause I'm trying to have my setup as light as possible and to get it to rev a lot quicker.

At the moment, I'm gonna have to halt my whole project until I find out something about getting my crank done. Was planning on taking it to my machinist tomorrow but that's not gonna happen now. I know you guys are some of the top guys in the business but the main reason why I've never bought from you guys before until now is because of the lack of pictures on your website and not really knowing what I'd be buying. But knowing what Buschur represents and the word of mouth on dsmtuners, I decided to buy anyway and figured the pricing was pretty decent. But at the moment I don't have my crank done like I had expected it to be done. You guys had the best price that I've found so far, and I've heard the saying, "you get what you pay for," but with your reputation I'm seriously hoping this isn't the case. Hoping you guys will do me right.

If I have to ship it back to you guys to get it redone, I'll reship it. But I don't wanna throw my engine together and halfass it because I have big plans for this build up. The original plan for the crank was to have it looking something like this....

http://www.ffwdconnection.com/butchercrank.shtml

But went with you guys instead and have been planning to buy other parts from you guys for my project. Not sure if there was a miscommunication somewhere or what and don't know Nicks e-mail otherwise I'd deal with him directly. Just hoping this can be sorted out and hoping I won't be disappointed. Also don't wanna have to save up the money once again to send it out to anyone else to get it done like I'm needing. Please let me know something as soon as you possibly can. I'm hoping this can somehow be resolved as I'll be as patient as I can be if I'm done right by you guys.

Thank You,
Scott Laird

Thats the problem with the higher end dsm shops. They think that since they have the good reputation and all, that they have the right to do what they want AND be cocky about it. RRE is the exact same way. While consumers like us eat it up all the time, simply because we want the best and try to take it to the "best". Dont settle for anything man. Doing a build should not be a monthly task. If your gonna do it, do it right. I'd talk to them again and tell them to fix it or have them give you a refund. Very simple.

My .02 cents

BTW that "butcher" crank looks niiiiiiiiiice.

I just spoke with Nick from Buschur. He was telling me that they've never done any kinda crank like the picture I sent them (FFWD). He was telling me it wasn't safe. But I've never heard any issues concerning the removal of 7 pounds. Maybe someone with a butcher crank will speak up. He said he never told me that they'd take 7 pounds off. I dunno, maybe he forgot or something. Who knows, but I remember the convo. Anyway, I guess I may just keep what I've got now and throw it on cause I'm really not in the mood to spend another $550 to send it to FFWD to get it done plus shipping. Just disappointed though cause if I had known I wouldn't have paid $315 for that small amount of metal to be taken off to begin with and it kinda burns me up cause they don't have any pictures on their website. Just went off word of mouth and their reputation. Oh well.... What do you guys think? If nothing else, I guess now you guys have pictures of what a knife edged and balanced crank from Buschur looks like. I'll try and see if I can't weigh it tomorrow and see the exact amount of weight they took off.

peregrine said:

hey "wiseman", here you go. MD080691 now tell me why that cross references with the hyundai g4cs part number? oh! lets see, maybe because they are the exact same casting from the exact same line? and yes they are nitrite hardened as i was shown this by my machinist whos built over 50 mitsu blocks in the last few years so i think he knows what he's talking about.

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You have one engine builder’s word against the word of the machinist you trust. It is a good thing you trust your guy because that’s how it should be, but what if he is wrong in his assumption and I am not? How do you know that I don’t have real data to back up what I said? Even if I’m wrong, you still shouldn’t have insulted me, rather show your proof (other than the so called part cross-reference) to prove me wrong and I will be more than happy to admit I’m wrong.
For one you can say how the nitrite hardening was shown to you.

Suparata said:

You have one engine builder’s word against the word of the machinist you trust. It is a good thing you trust your guy because that’s how it should be, but what if he is wrong in his assumption and I am not? How do you know that I don’t have real data to back up what I said? Even if I’m wrong, you still shouldn’t have insulted me, rather show your proof (other than the so called part cross-reference) to prove me wrong and I will be more than happy to admit I’m wrong.
For one you can say how the nitrite hardening was shown to you.

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well, for what its worth i apologize for my above post. it was one of those days. my machinist has at his disposal a rockwell hardness tester which is pretty much the only way to test something like this and he has reconfirmed (i called him today) that my hyundai crank was the same as the 2.0 crank. that info combined with the part numbers cross referencing leads me to believe that they are made the same. i dont know what else i can post to prove this as ive searched for it and cant find anything. maybe we should just agree to disagree until one of us finds something to the contrary.

That is so much better . I know it’s hard sometimes not to be confrontational when replying to a guy you believe is totally wrong, unfortunately been there and probably will again. It would be nice to always have the courtesy to ask why the other guy thinks is right before, and then try to present your evidence.
Would it be too much to ask who your machinist is and if he sold you the crank?
Also what kind of hardness numbers did he give you on the two cranks?