So in my never ending repair of my suspension I have run across another problem. It seems that Mitsu was hitting the crack pipe hard the day they set the prices for the 2g rear swaybar endlinks, $85 each! So I figure fug mitsu I'll make my own like the racer dudes have done using spherical rod ends. Seeing as I am not the only one that has busted an endlink before and thought of this idea I was wondering if any others have tried this out yet.

Both of my endlinks were rounded out from rust so I torched them off, I first cut the center link then later torched the nuts off before I bead blasted/painted the lower arms prior to putting the new prothane bushings in. Sadly in my rush to get the car back on the road I didnt stop and think that I should measure the center distance between the link joint ends. If anyone happens to know this distance it would help a bit in the piecing togather this kit.

Wow I guess I'll have to show PPL how to split a nut w/o hurting the bolt.... It saved me alot of money on my swaybar install..

You may only find they wear out a bit early- heim joints really aren't meant to be splashing around in the mud and soaking up grit on a daily basis. Perhaps some boots from bicycle inner tube or silicon tubing.
But yes, if you can get it done, it shouldn't be rocket surgery.

There was no thread left on the shaft part where the nut went on. The nut and shaft were just rusted beyond use which is why I torched it off.

I talked with a guy I know who races dirt track oval and he says they use SS housing teflon sealed joints with SS bolts. He said they hold up just fine with the dirt and crap that gets on them for several seasons but they tend to get destroyed in wrecks before they wear out.

From what I can tell the joints eyes need to be 2" apart so it should just take one male, one female, and a jam nut for each side.

Cut thru the nuts flats a little on two sides with a dremel cutoff. Not thru so you dont cut threads.. Get a nut splitter and put the spike on the groove.. Crank it down.....

Next wire brush and/or naval jelly the rusty bolt..,

Well I decided to go with some QA1 Endura XMR7S-XFR7S endlinks, they should be in on thursday. I will update this thread with my progress as I have some.

I talked to the Mitsubishi regional parts manager yesterday and he said that the 95-99 Eclipse model cars are no longer supported. So get the parts you need guys because unless the part your looking for is used on another vehicle your about to be SOL.

Nanan said:

It seems that Mitsu was hitting the crack pipe hard the day they set the prices for the 2g rear swaybar endlinks, $85 each!

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I'm not sure who needs to put down that pipe.

Rear links for 2Gs list for $46.60 and usually sell for $33.55.

But if you really want to fab some up on your own, go for it.

- Jtoby

Nanan said:

I talked to the Mitsubishi regional parts manager yesterday and he said that the 95-99 Eclipse model cars are no longer supported. So get the parts you need guys because unless the part your looking for is used on another vehicle your about to be SOL.

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Oh, my. This thread just got better and better, didn't it, but at least we know who to invite to parties if we're low on crack. I just got new front endlinks for my 2G about two weeks ago. They were something like $19 each from that dealer in California: 1-800-357-1892 Arrived in two days.

- Jtoby

Nut splitter set of 3 $9.99 home depot.... Dremel cut off disk one... 10 cents.

Nanan said:

So get the parts you need guys because unless the part your looking for is used on another vehicle your about to be SOL.

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With what they charge I do that already.. Example Yard CAS vs dealer CAS gee I wonder?

QA1 makes some of the most indestructable end links and heim joints. their springs are nice too I run them on my GC collars. They are local so I just pick up..

MNGSX:
It wouldnt matter if I did split the nut off, the threads were rusted off like they were in a salt bath for a few years.

jtmcinder:
The list price is $85 but I am sure most dealerships sell them for $46 or what ever. Some dealerships discount parts while others will not, that depends on the parts manager and their policys. The front links were much cheaper but those were not what I needed, I am working on the rear links. As for parts avalability yea there are likely still a ton of parts floating around the Mitsu dealerships but they are no longer being made.

Of all the people on this board I would have figured you would have been the most receptive to this idea. Guess I will just keep my ideas to myself then.

Rusted even under the nut?

It sounds like they were bad...

Mine has'nt seen much salt since 2000 so I did'nt want to hurt them... I just cut the nut to save the links on a swaybar upgrade...

Nanan said:

Of all the people on this board I would have figured you would have been the most receptive to this idea. Guess I will just keep my ideas to myself then.

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I'm into Home Depot auto parts, but only when the time and money payoff is favorable. If you were creating adjustable links for the front, I'd be with you. But we don't need adjustables in the rear and they really are as cheap as I say.

Please don't take me that seriously on this. It's not like you said an Evo's diff is 35/65 when locked or anything like that. Roll with it and keep the idea coming.

- Jtoby

Well even if I could get the links as cheap as you say, I am still making the rodend ones cheaper. My bill came out to just under $40 for the set from QA1, it was like $15 for each side rodends and $4 each side for the grade 8 rodend stud inserts. Heck they are not even charging for shipping which does nothing but increase my likes for them.

There a good crew.

My coaxial hats have been wailing on there spherical bearings for some time now.. Tough tough stuff they make.

Well the endlinks came in today and my do they look overkill heh.




After a run to lowes for some nuts and bolts to replace the rusted ones that held the swaybar on its all together.



Now to go for a test drive and see how they hold up. =)

Those look nice but what happens when you get dirt in those bad boys

They have edge wipe seals and a non-crush internal teflon seal so dirt isnt really a problem. These are the same links you will see on most tube frame race cars, this particular version was pointed out to me by a guy I know who races sprint cars on a dirt track.

Now all I need to do is get some new shoes for my baby so I can drive her again. Putting around in my Chevy 1500 is hurting bad with its 15ish mpg.