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2g rear motor mount insert install GRRRR

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DSMvroom

15+ Year Contributor
632
4
Aug 8, 2004
Issaquah, Washington
Hey guys,

I bought the energy suspension insert kit and the first one went in with no trouble at all. My problem is the rear location underneath the intake manifold next to the firewall.

I got the three lower bolts out that hold the mount in place, but getting the center bolt that goes through the mount itself is giving me trouble. In order to get a good angle on it, I used a universal with a breaker bar (and actually got a fairly "square" setup) but anyway I broke the universal :notgood: . Any of you guys have a better way of getting that bolt out? Thanks for any help.

I've pretty much run out of daylight so tomorrow I'm goin to buy a new universal (well, get a warranty replacement) and try again.
 
go at it with a wrench. The emissions stuff can come off of the firewall by removing 2 bolts and the battery with tray come out in a few seconds, give your self more room. Now you see why the fuel filter is such a beeeotch. by the way the added work you are doing now is well worth the efforts. motor mounts are a good upgrade. Especially for a FWD. I do not know how the ES hold up, but the prothanes are great. the inserts (F and R) were not quite solid enough (in my book) so I bought new mounts at mitsu and then windowelded the inserts into the new mounts and clamped it in a vise for a few days to dry. dremeled the oversquirt and now they are solid. I am doing the prothane suspesnion mounts this winter, cant wait to feel the vibrations in her then.

Ohh yeah, PB blaster is your friend, just watch overspray
 
did you just use combination wrenches on both sides?

I *tried* to use a combination wrench on the nut on the driver's side and then used a 14mm socket -> universal -> extension -> breaker bar on the side next to the fuel filter.

So should I just use two combination wrenches? I don't think I'll get enough leverage from a combination wrench. Also I don't really want to just rip stuff apart. Battery/tray removal is a must and I did that, and even started unbolting the fuel filter bracket/assembly but stopped because i felt that it was a hard line under the filter and didn't think I'd be able to move it much anyway.
 
the last one i did - i yanked all the emitions stuff + battery tray as mentioned above.
then used a impact -
 
also is your universal swivel a craftsman? (or better, snapon ect) or was it the autozone brand. The bolt it pretty tight. and it has a bit of rust and crud in it that where the PB blaster will come in handy. and yes 2 combo wrenchs, (or gear wrenchs is what I used) Have you tried to get someone else to help after moving aside the brake reservoir? one on one side you on the other then turn the correct direction. I just went and looked at my friends GSR that I am going to put mounts on this weekend (the ES ones) and there is a zip tie/ plastic tab thing that holds them in the factory mount do the DSM ones have this too? Her ES ones were not nearly as stiff as the Prothanes.
 
Get a floor jack under your tranny with a block of wood.
Just raise the engine a little bit to take some weight off of that screw.
Get a Boxed End Wrench on the screw head and a 3/8" rachet with whatever socket on it, and go to work on that nut.
Once you get the nut off, you'll then wonder how the hell you are going to get that screw out.
I had to use a small hammer turned side ways with a smaller diameter screw to pound the screw out.
Don't worry about banging up the threads, that screw should have a point on it.
Hope this helps.
 
If you already got the 3 bolts holding the mount to the frame, why not remove the 3 or 4 bolts holding the other side onto the transmission? Then you take the whole thing out and then take it apart. Now you can put in the bushings and put it back together as one before you drop it back in again.
 
If you do take the tranny side of the mount off just remember that it's a tight space so you may need to take out the speed sensor so it's not in the way. It sits right in the middle of the mount/bracket and is held in by one 10mm screw. Remove the screw and give it a good pull.
 
well install is done.

i just put a combination wrench on the other side just like the first time i tried, and used a breaker bar to power it free. this time however, i took out the battery tray support also, in order for me to get a better angle at the bolt with the breaker.

anyway, i didn't use the two metal plates that came with the inserts because i couldn't fit them in; it was a tight squeeze as it was with just the mount+inserts.

Now, however, it's noisy! The eurethane insert is rubbing up against the support so bad that it sounds like my motor is falling apart. With the motor turned off, I can press down softly on the intake manifold and make it squeak. Is this because I didn't use the metal plates?

EDIT: im goin to try to use some silicone spray and get some in between the insert and the trannyside support to lube it up and hope for the best
 
Well that sucks....
I left the bracker connected to the tranny and in order for me to get the mount back in I had to spray the urethane with WD-40 and I have never had any problems with the reinforced mount.
Pssst, the 2 big washers that come with the kit belong on the front roll stop mount, you know the one that's mounted to the front to back cross member.
 
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