First off, I dont have a boost gauge, but I don't really need one atm since I'm not too concerned with presice boost numbers. (FTO2 is O2 trim)

Before MBC Install

TMN FTO2 O2se TPS RPMs KNCK INJP
27° 99.8% 0.84V 100.0% 2656 0 7.94ms
27° 99.8% 0.86V 100.0% 2813 0 7.68ms
27° 99.8% 0.72V 100.0% 3031 0 7.68ms
27° 99.8% 0.31V 100.0% 3094 0 8.19ms
26° 99.8% 0.14V 100.0% 3313 0 8.19ms
26° 99.8% 0.06V 100.0% 3438 0 8.70ms
26° 99.8% 0.06V 100.0% 3594 0 9.47ms
26° 99.8% 0.06V 100.0% 3781 0 10.50ms
25° 99.8% 0.04V 100.0% 3938 0 11.26ms
24° 99.8% 0.04V 100.0% 4188 0 12.54ms
24° 99.8% 0.04V 100.0% 4281 0 13.82ms
22° 99.8% 0.02V 100.0% 4594 0 15.62ms
20° 99.8% 0.02V 100.0% 4813 0 16.13ms
19° 99.8% 0.00V 100.0% 4938 0 15.62ms
21° 99.8% 0.02V 100.0% 5125 0 15.87ms
22° 99.8% 0.04V 100.0% 5375 5 15.87ms
20° 99.8% 0.02V 100.0% 5469 4 16.13ms
21° 99.8% 0.04V 100.0% 5656 4 16.38ms
24° 99.8% 0.06V 100.0% 5844 3 16.13ms
22° 99.8% 0.49V 100.0% 5906 10 15.87ms

28° 99.8% 0.88V 100.0% 2813 0 7.42ms
27° 99.8% 0.70V 100.0% 3000 1 7.94ms
27° 99.8% 0.10V 100.0% 3094 0 8.19ms
26° 99.8% 0.08V 100.0% 3313 0 8.19ms
27° 99.8% 0.06V 100.0% 3469 0 8.70ms
26° 99.8% 0.06V 100.0% 3563 0 9.22ms
26° 99.8% 0.04V 100.0% 3844 0 10.24ms
25° 99.8% 0.04V 100.0% 4000 0 11.26ms
25° 99.8% 0.04V 100.0% 4156 0 12.03ms
25° 99.8% 0.04V 100.0% 4375 2 13.31ms
22° 99.8% 0.02V 100.0% 4469 1 14.34ms
21° 99.8% 0.02V 100.0% 4656 1 15.10ms
21° 99.8% 0.02V 100.0% 4875 0 15.87ms
19° 99.8% 0.02V 62.4% 5094 0 8.45ms

27° 99.8% 0.06V 100.0% 3531 0 8.19ms
27° 99.8% 0.06V 100.0% 3594 0 8.70ms
26° 99.8% 0.06V 100.0% 3781 1 9.47ms
25° 99.8% 0.04V 100.0% 3875 1 10.50ms
24° 99.8% 0.04V 100.0% 4031 0 11.26ms
24° 99.8% 0.04V 100.0% 4219 0 12.54ms
24° 99.8% 0.04V 100.0% 4406 0 13.57ms
23° 99.8% 0.02V 100.0% 4594 0 14.59ms
21° 99.8% 0.02V 100.0% 4781 0 15.62ms
20° 99.8% 0.02V 100.0% 4938 0 16.13ms
20° 99.8% 0.02V 100.0% 5156 0 15.62ms
23° 99.8% 0.02V 100.0% 5219 0 15.87ms
22° 99.8% 0.02V 100.0% 5406 0 15.62ms
23° 99.8% 0.04V 100.0% 5625 1 15.87ms
24° 99.8% 0.02V 100.0% 5750 1 15.62ms









After MBC Install (upped the boost a lil)

TMN FTO2 O2Se TPS RPMs KNCK INJP
28° 99.8% 0.64V 100.0% 2969 0 7.42ms
27° 99.8% 0.59V 100.0% 3156 0 7.94ms
27° 99.8% 0.57V 100.0% 3313 0 8.19ms
26° 99.8% 0.57V 100.0% 3469 0 8.45ms
26° 99.8% 0.57V 100.0% 3563 0 8.96ms
26° 99.8% 0.55V 100.0% 3750 0 9.98ms
26° 99.8% 0.45V 100.0% 3938 0 11.01ms
24° 99.8% 0.21V 100.0% 4156 0 12.54ms
23° 99.8% 0.21V 100.0% 4375 0 14.08ms
21° 99.8% 0.14V 100.0% 4563 0 15.87ms
17° 99.8% 0.04V 100.0% 4656 0 17.66ms
19° 99.8% 0.00V 100.0% 4906 0 18.69ms
19° 99.8% 0.00V 100.0% 5000 0 19.97ms
19° 99.8% 0.00V 100.0% 5188 0 20.48ms
21° 99.8% 0.00V 100.0% 5406 0 20.99ms
22° 99.8% 0.00V 100.0% 5469 0 20.48ms
22° 99.8% 0.00V 100.0% 5688 1 20.22ms
22° 99.8% 0.00V 100.0% 5813 1 19.71ms
23° 99.8% 0.00V 85.1% 5906 0 10.75ms


27° 99.8% 0.74V 100.0% 4563 0 12.29ms
24° 99.8% 0.53V 100.0% 4719 0 14.59ms
22° 99.8% 0.04V 100.0% 4938 0 16.38ms
19° 99.8% 0.00V 100.0% 5094 0 18.43ms
20° 99.8% 0.00V 100.0% 5281 0 19.46ms
21° 99.8% 0.00V 100.0% 5469 0 19.71ms
22° 99.8% 0.00V 100.0% 5563 0 19.71ms
23° 99.8% 0.00V 94.9% 5781 0 18.69ms


27° 99.8% 0.88V 100.0% 2531 0 7.68ms
27° 99.8% 0.90V 100.0% 2719 0 7.94ms
27° 99.8% 0.90V 100.0% 2875 0 7.68ms
27° 99.8% 0.84V 100.0% 2969 0 7.94ms
26° 99.8% 0.82V 100.0% 3125 0 8.19ms
26° 99.8% 0.82V 100.0% 3188 1 8.45ms
25° 99.8% 0.80V 100.0% 3406 0 8.70ms
26° 99.8% 0.82V 100.0% 3438 0 8.96ms
26° 99.8% 0.80V 100.0% 3625 0 9.98ms
26° 99.8% 0.78V 100.0% 3844 1 10.50ms


20° 99.8% 0.02V 100.0% 5281 1 19.20ms
21° 99.8% 0.00V 100.0% 5406 0 19.71ms
22° 99.8% 0.00V 100.0% 5500 0 19.71ms
22° 99.8% 0.00V 100.0% 5625 2 19.71ms
22° 99.8% 0.00V 100.0% 5813 2 19.71ms
22° 99.8% 0.00V 100.0% 5906 2 19.46ms
23° 99.8% 0.00V 100.0% 5969 1 18.69ms
23° 99.8% 0.00V 100.0% 6188 1 18.94ms
23° 99.8% 0.00V 100.0% 6219 0 18.18ms

As you can see, after I upped the boost a little w/ the MBC, at wot when spooled my o2 is pegged at 0 which would indicate i'm running real lean, but the timing and knock are ok (p.s. timing isn't exactly at 5* but will be soon, it's not too advanced tho). Any comments or input is gladly accepted

Also, the runs under each catagory are done within seconds of each other. If you want the full logs just pm me w/ an email and I'll gladly send them, these are cutouts w/ TPS at 100%.

O2's pegged a 0 means it's not working.

I'm sure it's working cause I do get readings out of it other than 0. Also, after the MBC install, on one run it showed .7s and .8s. I do not however exclude the option that the 02 isn't working properly. It starts going down to 0 at around 4k rpms which is where I get full boost at.

Dred said:

First off, I dont have a boost gauge, but I don't really need one atm since I'm not too concerned with presice boost numbers.

Click to expand...

I'm sorry, but this is the dumbest thing I have ever heard...

Get a boost gauge and a new o2 sensor and then post some logs...

How is this the dumbest thing you've ever heard? Since when do you need a boost gauge more than a logger to see that you're not F$#%ing anything up? Not exactly the input that I was expecting... I'm also not cranking the boost up. If you said something like "looks like your o2 sensor is messed up" I would say thanks, but your post there is not informative.

Dred said:

I'm also not cranking the boost up.

Click to expand...

How do you know

Look at knock and timing values.

Dred said:

First off, I dont have a boost gauge, but I don't really need one atm since I'm not too concerned with presice boost numbers. (FTO2 is O2 trim)
.

Click to expand...

Wow that is... well i cant think of a nice way to say it.. DUMB. You are upping the boost without a boost controller? How do you know you arent running over 20psi, etc? Let me guess you are reading the stock boost gauge. Take the boost controller off and give it to someone else until you can get a real boost gauge.

Ok...
1) How would I be upping my boost w/o a boost controller? ( You gotta be kidding )
2) How would I be running 20psi on a 14b + SMIC without knock or heatsink? (If I am, WOW!)
3) No I am not reading boost from the original boost gauge.
4) If you have no input regarding the actual numbers on the logs please don't post.

Dred said:

Ok...
1) How would I be upping my boost w/o a boost controller? ( You gotta be kidding )
2) How would I be running 20psi on a 14b + SMIC without knock or heatsink? (If I am, WOW!)
3) No I am not reading boost from the original boost gauge.
4) If you have no input regarding the actual numbers on the logs please don't post.

Click to expand...

1) i meant you are upping the boost without a boost GAUGE
2) Easy, race gas, cold weather outside?
3) Then where are you reading boost from? Out of your butt? Becuase you arent reading it from a boost gauge.
4) Looks like your 02 is messed up.. You arent showing any voltage.. Does this not bother you? You still just peg the gas and hold the boost huh? Get a boost gauge.

K enough flaming
4 = helpful, thank you. I think so as well.

There's absolutely no way it could read and be correct at 0.

Dred said:

K enough flaming
4 = helpful, thank you. I think so as well.

There's absolutely no way it could read and be correct at 0.

Click to expand...

does the 02 voltage cycle when cruising? get up to about 55-60 and just cruise easy and see if it cycles

I'm not sure, mine goes all over the place all the time, getting a new o2 sensor tmr and will be able to see.

Also, my fuel trims are at 140 (all three) and I have to run extremely advanced timing in order not to buck.

I think the answer to my problems is a new o2 sensor.

Make sure you spend the extra money and get an OEM sensor. I have heard stories of aftermarket sensors being difficult to install, missing the heater element, etc. It's worth the extra $30.

And a boost gauge. Seriously, man. You keep tuning off datalogs with screwy sensors, and you won't have an engine for long.

A few things are basic necessity. An aftermarket boost gauge, preferably mechanical, is one of the absolute *first*. After all.. what if your knock sensor is starting to show its age, too? Are you comfortable with the possibility that you may have a non-operating wastegate, but won't know until you're holding a chunk of your crank in your lap?

how do you know if your o2 sensor is not working? and how much does it cost to get another one?

gsturbo11 said:

how do you know if your o2 sensor is not working? and how much does it cost to get another one?

Click to expand...

OEM O2 sensors are about $100, last time I replaced mine. Most of the time a logger will reveal that the O2 sensor is not reading any voltage. Look at the above log, you will see that at WOT his sensor is reading about 0.05V. This should be in the 0.92V range. A logger will also reveal that at idle the O2 voltage will not cycle properly. Most of the time a bad/dead O2 sensor will also throw a fuel trim CEL.

It is a good idea to replace the O2 on a regular basis (along with routine maintence). With time the sensor voltage will begin to degrade and provide the ECU with a "false low" value. This will cause the ECU to inject extra fuel needlessly.

spyderturbo007 said:

OEM O2 sensors are about $100, last time I replaced mine. Most of the time a logger will reveal that the O2 sensor is not reading any voltage. Look at the above log, you will see that at WOT his sensor is reading about 0.05V. This should be in the 0.92V range. A logger will also reveal that at idle the O2 voltage will not cycle properly. Most of the time a bad/dead O2 sensor will also throw a fuel trim CEL.

It is a good idea to replace the O2 on a regular basis (along with routine maintence). With time the sensor voltage will begin to degrade and provide the ECU with a "false low" value. This will cause the ECU to inject extra fuel needlessly.

Click to expand...

THANKS!

Talesin said:

And a boost gauge. Seriously, man. You keep tuning off datalogs with screwy sensors, and you won't have an engine for long.

A few things are basic necessity. An aftermarket boost gauge, preferably mechanical, is one of the absolute *first*. After all.. what if your knock sensor is starting to show its age, too? Are you comfortable with the possibility that you may have a non-operating wastegate, but won't know until you're holding a chunk of your crank in your lap?

Click to expand...

Ok, I'm not arguing that a boost gauge isn't necessery. I know i'm not overboosting my engine and I know exactly what my engine feels like when the wg doesn't open. Thnx for all the replies.

Wow, sorry to bring a dead thread back, but.... wow was I an idiot...


People, get a boost gauge.

/slap myself

Haha!

CanadianTSi said:

I'm sorry, but this is the dumbest thing I have ever heard...

Get a boost gauge and a new o2 sensor and then post some logs...

Click to expand...

you all always say replace the 02 sensor, ### you have constant .000v readings. thats an expensive fix to what might not be the problem. I had constant .00v readings and you guys said, "replace the o2 sensor, its dead" and now that the car is tuned, it no longer reads EXTREMELY LEAN, AKA .00v. There are things other than a dead o2 sensor that can cause .00v. maybe the knock sensor is going bad, he's running more boost and has less knock.... also by looking at the injector pulse width, it seems like you turned the boost up a lot. BUY A BOOST GAUGE. When I first installed my boost gauge, I thought I had it set conservitavely, only to find out that I was running at well over 20psi. Obviously since I have stock injectors and was completely stock at the time, I didn't care to find out how over my target of 16psi I was. Once I saw it fling up to 20 I knew to let off. Do you know what boost your running at? if your pinning the stock boost gauge, assuming its somehow actually right for once, you have no idea what your running at. the most important thing is to BUY A BOOST GAUGE.

You obviously did not read his above post. He just said he was an idiot and told everyone to buy a boost guage.This thread is 10 months old.

fwdeclipse said:

You obviously did not read his above post. He just said he was an idiot and told everyone to buy a boost guage.This thread is 10 months old.

Click to expand...

your point?

The point is that I had a shitty MBC which didn't even bother openning my wastegate, which meant that at wot my poor old 14b was runnin so much boost, that was enough to kill itself, make o2 readings retarted, and the finally lift the head and well, I have a built 6bolt now...

It was because of extremely high boost that the o2 sensor was going nuts and that my engine blew (however glad I may be, cause it lead me to building my 6bolt) and we all hope that the first mod people do is getting a boost gauge.