Hey i just wanted to know what people thought was the best intake system for a 1996 Eclipse GS-T..... what kind is going to give me most power increase thanks

goals ? upgrading turbo ? to many variables. starting out, fipk http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=17311&cat=585&page=1 , imo, the best intake for average tuner would be straight pipe, filter, maf blow through, etc. etc.

What about a cold air intake system? Do they put out more power?

sholace29 said:

What about a cold air intake system? Do they put out more power?

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see that turbo looking thing in your car.. yeah that gets hot.... and heats up your "cold air" before it ever gets to the intake mani. not that cooler temps don't help, but seriously, do a LOT of reading... go through all the "modification steps" on this forum for your car, and figure out how much money you want to spend, and what your "end goals" are.. then start picking out parts.

I just installed the Extreme PSI intake kit. Heres a link.... http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=16345&cat=476&page=1

It's a little more than the FIPK, but it comes with the piping, filter, and all necessary hardware for installation. The sounds is awesome and was definitely worth it IMO. Make sure you get a boost gauge first

Injen makes a very good intake for the 2G.

every intake pipe is the same, dont be fooled, its a piece of metal piping that goes from the mas to the turbo inlet....looks is another story. the best air filters are the k&n and the apex'i. the apexi is a bit more money but it looks hot and it never needs to be cleaned or "recharged" like the k&n since it is a dry element filter.apexi also has a built in veloctiy stack, who knows what it does but its there. i have the apexi super intake filter and chrome dejon tool pipe on my car and am very pleased with both and i get tons of compliments from people. my friend got a chrome intake pipe and filter and mas adaptor with all the hoses and hardware and silicone and clamps with dump tube for something like 30 bucks from an ebay store, im sure it works the same as mine too, but if you'll be upgrading your turbo to a turbo where the compressor inlet is larger than 2" or whatever the stock one is than the best one u can buy is the dejon tool, i got the 3" dejon tool intake pipe for 135 new when i got my 50 trim and its great. if u have plans to upgrade your turbo to something along those lines than get the larger intake pipe and buy a silicone reducer to fit on your t25. the turbosthat dont need a larger intake pipe are the t28, 16g, and 20g. hope this helped u out a little

-Chris

never2muchBoost said:

every intake pipe is the same, dont be fooled, its a piece of metal piping that goes from the mas to the turbo inlet....looks is another story.

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False. With the little fluid dynamics education I have had, I sure as hell know that air flows different over sharp digressions versus a smooth transition. Take a look at the Forced Performance intake; you don't seen any abrupt digressions in the construction, generally a smooth transition:
http://linux.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/graphics/00000001/full/fp_cast_intake_full.jpg

sholace29 said:

What about a cold air intake system? Do they put out more power?

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I run a Cold Air Intake and wouldn't have it any other way. Since the stocj IC is gone my K&N sits there drawing in cooler air, much cooler than under hood air temps. True the air is heated as it is compressed and also exposed to the general heat of the compressor housing and it's proximity to the hot turbine. I have a choice, draw in ambient air, say 75* here or 175* under the hood? I need very advantage I can get and I'll take the cooler intake air. Mark

ISUJakey said:

False. With the little fluid dynamics education I have had, I sure as hell know that air flows different over sharp digressions versus a smooth transition. Take a look at the Forced Performance intake; you don't seen any abrupt digressions in the construction, generally a smooth transition:
http://linux.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/graphics/00000001/full/fp_cast_intake_full.jpg

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that is only because it is 4". the smaller the piping the lankier it will be and have more abrupt curves, every 4" intake pipe on the market looks about the same, bottom line= the thicker the piping the less degree bends, look for yourself, you'll see that im right

A pipe is a pipe. The injen pipe is dyno proven for no difference.

sweet97 said:

I run a Cold Air Intake and wouldn't have it any other way. Since the stocj IC is gone my K&N sits there drawing in cooler air, much cooler than under hood air temps. True the air is heated as it is compressed and also exposed to the general heat of the compressor housing and it's proximity to the hot turbine. I have a choice, draw in ambient air, say 75* here or 175* under the hood? I need very advantage I can get and I'll take the cooler intake air. Mark

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yes, the cooler the inlet air the cooler it will be coming into the engine. even a heat shield for the air filter works, the best thing to do is either cut a hole under the air filter when u get a fmic and run heating duct material from the opening in the front bumper for the stock sidemount right under the air filter, or do it like dre has (dre99gsx with the targa 2g) and make a custom cold air intake out of piping.

never2muchBoost said:

that is only because it is 4". the smaller the piping the lankier it will be and have more abrupt curves, every 4" intake pipe on the market looks about the same, bottom line= the thicker the piping the less degree bends, look for yourself, you'll see that im right

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False again. The larger the diameter (ID) of the piping, generally the less the abrupt digressions in the structure due to the popularity of casting the intakes increasing as ID increases. Thickness does not mean shit in this case unless you want to get into the thermal conductivity of the material used for the intake in discussing the rate of heat transfer between the engine bay air and the air coming into the turbo as the start of the intake charge. Take a look at the Injen intake, do you see any sharp or abrupt digressions in the construction? Any Billy Butt#### can go out purchase a piece of straight piping, two 45 degree transitions, and weld it together calling it an intake. The key here is a smooth transition in the intake structure versus abrubt digressions.

never2muchBoost said:

yes, the cooler the inlet air the cooler it will be coming into the engine. even a heat shield for the air filter works, the best thing to do is either cut a hole under the air filter when u get a fmic and run heating duct material from the opening in the front bumper for the stock sidemount right under the air filter, or do it like dre has (dre99gsx with the targa 2g) and make a custom cold air intake out of piping.

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So you're saying because Dre has an intake like that on his car means it is the best thing since sliced bread? Dre's car is truly a work of art, I won't argue with you on that. However, I believe that one needs to take into account the elevated risk of hydrolocking when using a true "cold air" intake verus your standard engine bay air intake.

ISUJakey said:

So you're saying because Dre has an intake like that on his car means it is the best thing since sliced bread? Dre's car is truly a work of art, I won't argue with you on that. However, I believe that one needs to take into account the elevated risk of hydrolocking when using a true "cold air" intake verus your standard engine bay air intake.

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I've tried many incarnations of intake heat shields and intakes on my 1G and found that routing outside the engine bay (in my case the orig SMIC location) helped noticably in both off boost response and overall power when the engine is at temp and moving.

Mine is a simple 3" AL Bend, cone filter and 3" to 4" PlumbQuick attached to the 2G MAS which is connect to my Dejon 3.5" Intake. It is routed cone down about 12" from the ground so no water issues to worry about.

DSM90AWD said:

I've tried many incarnations of intake heat shields and intakes on my 1G and found that routing outside the engine bay (in my case the orig SMIC location) helped noticably in both off boost response and overall power when the engine is at temp and moving.

Mine is a simple 3" AL Bend, cone filter and 3" to 4" PlumbQuick attached to the 2G MAS which is connect to my Dejon 3.5" Intake. It is routed cone down about 12" from the ground so no water issues to worry about.

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Good to hear you've had good luck with your intake configuration. I'm not arguing one bit against running a configuration like your's. I'm just saying that I personally believe it is best to keep the intake in the engine bay, simply because I would rather front the issue of air temperature difference versus a risk of hydrolocking.

ISUJakey said:

Good to hear you've had good luck with your intake configuration. I'm not arguing one bit against running a configuration like your's. I'm just saying that I personally believe it is best to keep the intake in the engine bay, simply because I would rather front the issue of air temperature difference versus a risk of hydrolocking.

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To each his own.. but safe <> fast. If it was you'd see more 12-second Volvo wagons
BTW.. AEM does make air bypass valves to prevent water infiltration.

since we are on the topic of intakes and im confused with all the dejon tool intakes heres my question. which one would i need as far as size goes? 2.5? 3"? i have an evoIII16g turbo and i have a turboxs RFl (yeah i know its venting) but im going to get the blow thru setup done to allow me to. what intake pipe out of the 20 they carry would i need.

dsmkid95 said:

since we are on the topic of intakes and im confused with all the dejon tool intakes heres my question. which one would i need as far as size goes? 2.5? 3"? i have an evoIII16g turbo and i have a turboxs RFl (yeah i know its venting) but im going to get the blow thru setup done to allow me to. what intake pipe out of the 20 they carry would i need.

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If you're going to be running the 2G MAS and not recirculate the BOV then get the 2G Intake that necks down to 2.75"

Dejon Website: 2 3/4" model barely clears the 14b-16g waste gate actuator but will also work with all Mitsu turbos.

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When you go MAFT then just stick an air filter on the end of the intake in lieu of the MAS.

Dejon makes some nice products and Dave is a nice guy.
However the "couplers" he supplies are a VERY difficult fit on the 14B-16G turbo's. Get a silicone reducer from a place like www.hightempsilicone.com

Mark

sweet97 said:

Dejon makes some nice products and Dave is a nice guy.
However the "couplers" he supplies are a VERY difficult fit on the 14B-16G turbo's. Get a silicone reducer from a place like www.hightempsilicone.com

Mark

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That's weird, I've had two Dejon intakes with my 16G (1G MAS STR and 2G MAS Curved) and both fit well. You did have to keep your compresor's rubber mounting "ring" as that made up for the .25" gap in the Dejon-provided coupler.

Just remember that you need T-Bolts with the silicone connectors as worm clamps will shred the cover

The truth is, there are so many variables involved with intake systems on turbocharged cars that it's tough to find the "best". And the difference between the "best" and the "worst" is probably 2-3 hp, if that. First of all, since the car is turbocharged, the best intake system in general isn't going to yield much more noticable power than simply removing your airbox and slapping on a K&N filter. Cold air intakes will be somewhat limited to the efficiency of the intercooler. You can draw in all the cold air you want, but if your intercooler becomes heatsoaked (which most SMIC's do with hard driving), it won't really matter what kind of intake you have.

There are only a couple CAI's on the market and they require a different MAF setup than stock. You can fab up some work arounds to retain the stock MAF, but you'll have to decide if it's really worth the time and effort. It's probably a better idea to start planning what FMIC you'll be using (if you haven't already) with a GM MAF-T, turbo choice, etc. Obviously, this means that it's a decision to be made at a later stage in the modding process - not something that will just be slapped on. The more efficient your intercooler is at cooling air, the less important a CAI becomes.

The most effective air intake for you at this point would be just a K&N FIPK system and maybe a hard pipe. Though the hard pipes aren't even guaranteed to do much for you, they do look nice. Just about any hard pipe will do, and I doubt there are any flow numbers to back up any claims out there. The whole "best intake system" discussion might apply to a N/A car, but not so much in the DSM realm. Sure, a better flowing pipe will mean more efficiency, but having a turbo that sucks the air in pretty much makes all intakes more equal than in the N/A world. Again, not saying one intake won't flow a little better than another, but it will be a minimal difference due to the forced induction. Stick to an inexpensive piece and start focusing on other more important areas of the modification process.

sweet97 said:

Dejon makes some nice products and Dave is a nice guy.
However the "couplers" he supplies are a VERY difficult fit on the 14B-16G turbo's. Get a silicone reducer from a place like www.hightempsilicone.com

Mark

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Im goin to have to agree with sweet on this one. Yes it comes with the extra peices to make up for the size difference but with the way the wastegate actuator is places they didnt fit too well. I ended up trimming some off the the 2 bigger ones to get a decent fit. Even after that it still wasnt perfect.

Yes, a cold air setup works. Look at the corner of any compressor map, it should have a massflow corection formula. You input your compressor inlet temps and inlet pressure, and it corrects back to standard. I'd go so far as to say if there wasn't a restriction doing it, you'd see a good gain in power by running some kind of ice precooler/intercooler BEFORE the compressor inlet. On the flip side, running hot engine compartment air thru the compressor inlet, even with a 100% efficient theoretical intercooler, would actually lose power with every degree increase in compressor inlet temps. The hot engine air almost acts as one of those fancy flow restrictors they put on those rally cars.

"BTW.. AEM does make air bypass valves to prevent water infiltration." - DSM90AWD

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Once I get my FMIC and blow-through setup I plan to use their bypass with a CAI. Aside from hot weather, most of us who live in the coastal areas of FL have to deal with standing water. So I need some sort of insurance in case my CAI goes all Shop Vac on me. Unfortunately, I ran into this while I was shopping for prices:

"AEM does not recommend the use of the bypass valve on engines equipped with forced induction (turbo or superchargers)." - AEMpower.com

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I assume the reason that they tell you not to use it with a turbo is that you get a pretty strong vacuum when it spools and this may cause the bypass to open whether water is present or not. Although I'm not that familiar with the way the valve functions so I could be mistaken.

Have you or someone else used it with forced induction before? I'm interested in hearing whether or not you/they had any problems with it. If I can't use that bypass then I'm going to need to plan on using a different setup. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.