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odd resistance reading when doing alt install

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thegreatms

15+ Year Contributor
165
1
Oct 16, 2003
san diego, California
I was in the process of an alternator install and came across some reading that I found weird. With the battery out I measured the resistance between the hot lead and a good ground, I expected infinite resistance but got ~3.6 ohms.

I found this really weird, is it?

If the resistance is 3.6 ohms and I put the battery back at ~12 volts won't I have a current draw of ~3 amps. I think that would drain the battery pretty quick. With this in mind my buddy and me tried to hunt down where the resistance was coming from. We traced it thought the engine compartment fuse box then all the way into the driver’s side foot well fuse box. Specifically the bottom right 10amp fuse, that says "room". I know this fuse runs the ecu and dimmer dashboard lights, not sure what else. Well we then traced it to one of the white plugs on the back of the fuse box (the one on the bottom right when sitting in the driver’s seat). 5 of the 6 wires coming out of the white connector had continuity with ground and resistance of 1 to 30 ohms. In parallel it adds up to the 3.6 ohms. We tried to follow these 5 wires, but its a mess down there and our wiring diagrams aren't helping that much. I think one goes to the dimmer light, 2 to the hazard switch, can't find the others.

the wires were:
red with black stripe
green with yellow stripe
green with white stripe
green with ??? (can't remember)
white with blue

Is this something I should keep hunting down, or am I missing something?

I know wiring problems are a pain in the butt and appreciate any help you guys could give.
Thanks
 
Measuring resistance from the battery terminals is always very misleading and almost meaningless unless it's zero. This is because many loads are non-linear so the resistance varies with the voltage applied - eg. diodes and also capacitors which take up charge (from your meter) and so again appear like a strange resistance that changes with time, voltage (from your meter) and polarity. Some non-linear devices even have a higher resistance with higher voltage applied. Short the battery leads together a second to discharge any capacitors and then measure again to see this - then try this again reversing the meter leads since many meters also swap polarity when in resistance mode (especally analog ones) so your positive lead is really a negative voltage. Since there are diodes and capacitors present you will get a different reading if you swap the meter leads or even change scales (changing scales changes output voltage of the meter). Then there are the loads that are always there like your radio and ECU memories, any theft alarms (and their lights), and lights that come on when you open doors, anything left turned on, etc.

The only sure and proper way to check for battery drain is to put a higher amperage ammeter (20A or more scale) in series with the 12V battery when it's connected (any lower scales put too much resistance in the meter itself so you get misleading results). Do not start car or turn anything on as the current draw may exceed 20A and your meter will be history.
 
Wow, that’s some good info. I had thought it was something like that but couldn't get my head around what kind of devices would act like this. I had thought about the door lights and such but not about all the things you mentioned. I was planning on having a buddy come over with an ammeter; hopefully it has at least a 20-amp setting.

What is the maximum that it should read with every thing off in the car? It must be pretty small like .1 amps.

I was just about to go out to my car and spend another day digging in the dashboard :thumbdown , now I can have a week end :thumb:

Thanks again,
mike
 
yeah i got a 10A max ammeter, It was drawing 11 mA with everything off, so i think im ok.

thanks for your help
 
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