I can only get this started. This is not my forte.

Zero toe in the front. Zero or very slightly toed-in (for stability) in the rear. The other reason to have some rear toe-in is that 2Gs toe out in compression, so starting with slight toe-in will get you to zero when weight shifts to the rear during hard acceleration. 1G AWDs have a similar issue, due to the dynamic toe engineered into the trailing links. If the trailing links are stock (unwelded), then you need some static toe-in so you end up with near zero toe under hard acceleration. If you have a 1G AWD with welded trailing links (which is suggested), then you can run near zero or zero static rear toe. 1G FWDs have a solid rear axle, so none of this is an issue.

Slight negative camber in the front and rear. 2Gs that have been lowered might want to eccentric bushings in the pivots for the upper arms to bring camber back to 0.5*; lowered 2Gs will definitely need to space out the brackets for the upper rear arms to get the camber back to 0.75* or less. This is less of an issue on 1Gs, since they gain less camber when lowered.

- Jtoby

special thanks to pneumo for helpful comments

This thread is not for questions, it's for numbers and first hand settings.

Please: Anyone with experience should post agreement or disagreement. I will adapt the first post in light in the feedback, such that we end up with a unified piece of advice. Please hold off on highly technical issues that might confuse novices. We can have those discussions in other threads.

Thanks.

- Jtoby

1G FWD Rear