The #1 issue with regard to tire wear is toe, not camber. Non-zero toe causes the tire to scrub across the pavement all the time, stripping the tread off. Camber merely focuses the weight of the corner on a smaller amount of tire.

[Note: to most people, positive toe is toe-in and negative toe is toe-out. However, this is not universal. Therefore, I will discuss matters in terms of toe-in and toe-out.]

The combination of non-zero toe (especially toe-out) and high camber can kill a tire in 50 miles, but it's the toe that must be fixed to prevent this. I have run about 2.5* of front camber and more than 1.5* of rear camber without serious treadwear, because I was running zero toe front and rear.

With that said, I don't see much reason to run more than 1.5* of front camber on a car that is mostly for street driving. You get about this much on a 2G from a sensible amount of lowering (e.g., ProKit, not Sportlines), so no front camber kit is required. In the rear of a 2G, you should add shims (or washers) behind the brackets for the upper control arms to get the camber down to about two-thirds of what you have in the front.

Stock alignments include quite a bit rear toe-in, because this promotes stability, especially under heavy braking. If you have more camber than stock (due to lowering, for example), then back your toe off to being closer to zero. You still want it to be slightly toed-in for stability when braking, but don't run the full amount.

Keep the front toe at zero (which is spec) at all times.

- Jtoby

This thread is not for questions, it's for numbers and first hand settings.

Please: Anyone with experience should post agreement or disagreement. I will adapt the first post in light in the feedback, such that we end up with a unified piece of advice. Please hold off on highly technical issues that might confuse novices. We can have those discussions in other threads.

Thanks.

- Jtoby

Stock alignments include quite a bit rear toe-in, because this promotes stability, especially under heavy braking

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You are correct on that and all other statements. Just dont forget to mention that a small amount of toe creates forces on the suspension component joints keeping them tight against one side of their endplay. A well maintained car with still good or fresh ball joints and tie rod ends will likely be more stable at a lower amount of toe in than one with some worn parts.