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Installing Star Turbo Kit

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Let's take a look at the list of parts:
- Turbonetics T3/T04B Turbocharger
- STAR 4 to 1 Turbo Manifold
- Turbonetics Mark II Wastegate
- STAR Front-Mount Intercooler (Polished)
- HKS Blow-Off Valve
- STAR Mandrel-Bent Chrome-Plated Piping
- STAR 2.5" Exhaust Down Pipe
- STAR Wastegate Dump Tube
- STAR Blue Silicone Couplers & Clamps
- STAR High Volume Inline Fuel Pump
- STAR Vortech Boost Dependent FMU
- STAR Intake Air Filter Assembly
- Map Sensor Bypass Valves
- SS Braided Oil Feed Line w/ Fittings
- Oil Return Line Assembly
- All Necessary Hardware and Fittings
- All Necessary Hoses and Hose Clamps
- All Necessary Gaskets
.


Now there are a few things about the star kit that should be upgraded before installation.

1. Down pipe has has no flex section. I chose a 8" flex section which I got off ebay for 30.00 shipped.

2. No gasket between turbo and down pipe. I found the gaskets at: http://www.victoryperformance.com/p...arttype.cfm?makeid=11&ModelID=5&PartTypeID=23[/URL] They are $15.00 shipped.

3. If you are concerned of oil return line leaking use a weld fitting. The 420a oil pan is steel so I recomend using a steel fitting. I used 8AN for my return line, most people use 10AN.

4. Replace supplied oil return with true braided AN return line. I found this website with the cheapest prices on AN products. [URL]http://www.sweetperformance.com[/URL]

5. Map sensor bypass valve. I've researched and most people replace with Missing Link.
http://www.nipponpower.com/forced_induction/missinglink.html

6. Jet Hot coating, this is not necessary but if your concerned about heat, or the look of cast manifold, try jet hot coating. I had manifold, down pipe, and wastegate dump tube coated for a little over $200.00

Installing the kit.

1. Removing manifold. I used P-Blaster for a week before attemping removal. Start car let warm up for a few minutes. Use 6 sided socket. Unbolting nuts at the cat I had to hot wrench with oxygen/map gas, heated nuts until cherry red and backed them off. (don't forget to remove O2 sensor)

2. Remove rear seat. This is where you will find your fuel pump. Disconnect fuel line and fuel return and remove fuel pump. Modifing pump bracket to fit new fuel pump. New pump is slightly longer than stock. Remove stock pump from bracket, remove small piece of fuel line from bracket. Now you have to trim about 1/2" off the stock fuel pump assembly barb (where hose was attached) this will allow new pump to fit into place(do not cut or modify fuel pump). You may have to trim hose to and replace hose clamps with better ones because of fuel pressure.

3. Installing Vortech FMU. This was a tight area to work in. Mine was located in the rear by the fuel filter on the passanger side. I'll explain this best I can. 3 ports on FMU the one on the front is the vaccum port, the one on the side is fuel IN and the one in the middle is fuel OUT.
:remove Fuel return line from stock FPR. (Supplied fuel hose, piece with kit about 8") FPR to the INPUT of the vortech FMU. Then from the OUT of the vortech FMU to the Fuel tank return (the top where fuel pump is) . then run vacum to front of the car..I will be using the EGR vacum port on the intake manifold.

4. Mounting turbo manifold: I used 5 factory studs, and supplied stud with kit and two bolts. Put supplied stud between exhaust port 3/4. Use the manifold bolts on the lower ends. The trick is to balance manifold on the studs while spinning nut on stud between exhaust manifold 3 and 4 also, 2 and 3. The rest are easy. (use a new oem exhaust manifold gasket) they are about $35.00.

5. Mount turbo to exhaust manifold, mount oil drain flange and fitting using teflon tape, use supplied gasket. Losen compressor side of turbo and rotate in down postion.

6. Remove oil pan. Here you will need a new gasket also they are around $10.00. Place flange on oil pan 1 inch from top. (note: mount flange between oil pan mounting holes) mark 3 holes, drill and mount flange using gasket. Reinstall oil pan.
I used a weld fitting in oil pan and made a 8an oil return line.

7. Install oil return line.

8. Installing oil pressure fitting. You oil pressure sensor is located on the drivers side far left back of engine block. Remove sensor and install it on supplied fitting(use teflon tape) and installback into engine block with side fitting facing upward. Attach oil supply line to fitting and top of turbo.

9. Install down pipe. Using gasket mentioned above (special order not with kit) you might need to reem holes to get it to line up with turbine housing, and bolt to cat/converter.

10. Install wastegate dump tube to waste gate (use gaskets) and install to manifold. Run vac line from bottom of wastegate to side of turbo compressor housing.

11. Install BOV to intercoooler piping. T vac line either into egr vac line, or run A vac line to back of intake manifold and T into a vac line located there.

My delay in article being finished is because of my motor rebuild because head gasket was shot before turbo install. I will have some really good pictures to post as I take putting the kit back on motor. I want this article to be simple for all those installing a turbo kit, so it will take me awhile but please PM if any questions about installing.
 

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