The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Possibly a 6bolt swap in my future... :(

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

98RedGs

20+ Year Contributor
6,239
7
Sep 14, 2002
Bogalusa, Louisiana
Ok.
Now I'm having a big problem with my car and am constantly hearing a "knocking sound" coming from my engine. Now the reason I am posting is because I cant seem to find out what it is or where it could be coming from other than internally engine wise...

Something happened last night that caused me a big big problem and made me blow oil all over the road and dropped about 3qt's. Soon as I noticed the oil pressure dropping I dug into the breaks and went to neutral and killed the car. Got out and pushed it to the side of the road. After I get it to the side and get under it I find out that it was the dam oil drain plug screwed itself out somehow and I lost all my oil before I could do anything about it. But once I got out and figured out this is what it was I ran home and got another oil drain plug and then some oil and went back and refilled it and drove it home. No problems.

Fast forward to today. I'm driving with no big problems on my car other than my exhaust leak and that dosen't bother me because I'm fixing it soon. So today I leave my friends house and my car "sputters" or "jerks" one time and I didn't think much of it other than I knew I needed to get the car home and look it over. Well coming down my road right by my house (about 3 mins from) I start hearing this loud knocking sound and realize that I can't do anything about it other than to limp it home and the knocking did nothing but got worse...

So I panic and go buy a compression tester and also some more oil so I can drain my oil to check it for anything odd or obivous. The oil has some kinda really shiney stuff in it and this is when I start realizing that the worse is to come soon. (pic posted below). The oil looks horrid and remember that I had just put the oil in about 12 hours before. :( I grab a compression gauge and get ready to check it. My compression numbers are as follows.
150 (fartherest from cam gears) 140 140 135. So I don't think that it's that.......

Gimme some options and I also have a movie with sound that I can post and let you hear the sound that the car is letting off....

Someone help me please...
Tell me if its the rods or let me know that if I'm going to be something else I can check quicker. If it's the rods I'll just buy a 6bolt bottom end and just clean up my 2g head and get someone to do the swap and pay them to do it or let me learn and help them do it.

Or could it be something else?

msg me on tuners, icq, aol or yahoo and help me or ask me to view the movie....
I need some help guys asap.



The movie is here but it has limited bandwidth...
So dont download if you cant help me please... :(
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/m/smit9352/
 
well that "silver" shine that is in your oil i belive to be aluminum.... that means, when you lost your oil, for however short of a time alowed metal to metal friction.. probably with a bearing.... loud nocking sound usually coresponds to a valve... check timing belt, etc.. make sure it didnt skip some teeth, and your valves are kissing the piston.. and are wearing into your head... DONT RUN IT ANYMORE!! OMG pull the top cover off your timing belt and rotate engine by hand to check timing status.. (cam gears line up okay) if that is okay, your head is probably fine.. then i would pull the pan.. check crank bearings... lots of work yes, butt if it isnt too bad, you might get away with replacing a few valves or some crank bearings.. or do like you said and change to the 6 bolt.. good luck man
 
GSX1stgen said:
well that "silver" shine that is in your oil i belive to be aluminum.... that means, when you lost your oil, for however short of a time alowed metal to metal friction.. probably with a bearing.... loud nocking sound usually coresponds to a valve... check timing belt, etc.. make sure it didnt skip some teeth, and your valves are kissing the piston.. and are wearing into your head... DONT RUN IT ANYMORE!! OMG pull the top cover off your timing belt and rotate engine by hand to check timing status.. (cam gears line up okay) if that is okay, your head is probably fine.. then i would pull the pan.. check crank bearings... lots of work yes, butt if it isnt too bad, you might get away with replacing a few valves or some crank bearings.. or do like you said and change to the 6 bolt.. good luck man


The timing belt dosen't seem like it has jumped timing at all but I could honestly be wrong. I have already removed the upper timing belt cover but how exactly will I check the timing on it? How will I rotate the engine by hand to check that?

How much harder is it to pull a oil pan for a 2g AWD than a 2g gst (transfer case I assume is in the way?). I would much rather it be a "cheaper fix" than a 6bolt but how will I know because my technical knowledge of engines is about a level 4 on a 10 scale. I know some and can get myself around but Honestly theres alot of things I wont try to tackle...

I'm not scared to learn or try anything but I am scared to fawk it up more than it already is. If you can respond to me with the answers to those questions I got that would rock!

Thanks bro.
 
to check your timing thier is a little like lip type deal coming off of your block down by the crank pulley and thier should be a mark on your crank pulley hit that with a timing gun. It should be 5 BTDC with the ECU grounded and 8 BTDC with out it grounded. You only need to ground the ecu if your going to adjust the timing because the ecu will try to constantly readjust the timing.
mitch
 
mitch83 said:
to check your timing thier is a little like lip type deal coming off of your block down by the crank pulley and thier should be a mark on your crank pulley hit that with a timing gun. It should be 5 BTDC with the ECU grounded and 8 BTDC with out it grounded. You only need to ground the ecu if your going to adjust the timing because the ecu will try to constantly readjust the timing.
mitch

Correct me if I'm wrong but the only reason I'm checking the timing is to see if the head is ok? Cause that sound lets me know that the 7bolt finally decided to let me down right?
 
Sorry to bring back old topic, but my 1995 GS with 150,000 miles does the same thing, sounds exactly the same, when I rebuild the engine, new rods will be all I really need right? Is thier a chance my whole head could be messed up?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top