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Really, really weird fuel trims...MAF Translator tuning (long)

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Oreopride18

20+ Year Contributor
278
0
Jun 19, 2002
I have a dilemma of sorts. I have a huge mod list but here is what pertains to the situation:

131k mile engine, no mods for the engine iteself except BRP7ES(whatever) plugs and Accel wires
255LPH fuel pump, no rewire
720CC Sieman Deika? injectors <----------important
Full Throttle Speed AFPR at 37 base psi
T3/T4 .63 A/R 50 trim
custom 34" FMIC

And I'm tuning using TMO and a 3" MAF Translator system. There is a summary at the bottom but I'd reccomend reading all of this.

So I've had the car running well enough without WOT for some time then some stuff happened and it went down for a good month and a half. Well, I decided to retune it so it wasn't running PIG RICH like it has been. I didn't save my logs but this is basically how it goes:

My idle fuel trim will begin to change within 10 seconds when I adjust the "Idle" knob on the translator. I started off with 81 fuel trim across the board and I know that's the lowest the ECU can see. I get the idle set *perfect* at 100% and decide to work on the others. The setting is as follows:

I'm set for 750CC injectors as my BASE. Remember how I have 720s? Well, you'd think I'd leave it as is or that I'd richen it a click. I'm 2 clicks LEANER to get a 100% idle trim; so my car is running roughly at idle thinking it's using 760's.

But that's not the strange one. I decide to get to mid before going WOT; I have my MID, as it sits, set thinking it's at 780ccs and it STILL won't budge. I figured I'd at least see it go to the 90%ile by now but it still stays at 81. WOT is set 1 click leaner. Now comes the obvious question:

What are my actualy knock/timing readings? The bad part is I have a *horrible* part-thottle phantom knock that goes away when the car warms up. How bad? My car thinks it's at 43 counts of knock until the 02 is out of closed loop for some reason. Upon getting on it I'm suprised to find.....18 counts. That's as bad as my WOT from 4200-6000 gets; I think it's phantom though beccause it stays around the 5 count mark.

Summary:
My injectors = 720cc my pump = 255lph unwired
So basically my idle = 760cc, my mid = a whopping 780cc, and my WOT = 760cc. I'm getting a few counts of knock but the car is still running itself pig rich without a hint of change. I'm starting to think either (a) I have a really good fuel system of (b) I have really low airflow. The car runs amazingly fast, there are NO leaks (besides the vented BOV but I'm running a blow through so that's ok) and I'm getting 10ish counts of knock but really really crappy fuel trims; my car IS audibly backfiring when I get off throttle at idle, cruise, mid, or WOT.

Anyone have a clue? I'm about to set my base at 800cc and see what happens from there. This shouldn't be a problem because I have PLENTY intercooler, a turbo that gets efficient around 23psi, and a fuel system that can back it up.
 
I think you need to totally revamp your tuning strategy. Try this instead:

Tune the base knob first, but DO NOT tune it at idle. If you do, then the global fuel will be all off. Instead, you want to cruise at over 60 mph, so that you're pulling decent airflow but still in closed loop. THEN use the base knob to tune the hi fuel trim and the O2 trim as close to 100% as possible.

All the other knobs should be zeroed out at this point.

Once you get the base dialed in, it is time to work on the idle and mind. Idle is pretty easy; just let the car idle, and play with that knob until the trims even out. You will probably have to richen it up some, but different cars are weird sometimes.

The mid, I usually am able to leave at zero. However, watch the O2 trim and watch knock, and get it set up right.

MAKE SURE YOU PRESSURE TEST BEFORE TUNING! If you are tuning with a boost and/or vacuum leak, the car will run shitty, guaranteed.

Hopefully that gets you straightened out.
 
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