Why is my transmission leaking from around this rubber boot? How do I fix it?




Moderator edit - here’s how: 'How To: Replacing AWD shifter lever oil seal'

There is a seal under the rubber boot.

It's a bi*** to change.

You don't have to take the tranny apart, but it will be easier if the trans it out of the car. To change it you have to remove the shift arm, which is held on by a roll pin. The roll pin is tapered at one end, make sure you can see which way it went in, because you have to take it out that way. If you get this wrong you will be pushing it in tighter. Once the roll pin is out the arm slides up and off the shaft. The rubber boot slides off next, then the seal comes up by prying on the metal lip.

Mine has been leaking for two years, I just top off the tranny fluid at every oil change. It's less hassle than changing it.

And put the cotter pin back in your shifter.

Defiant said:

And put the cotter pin back in your shifter.

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I would, but with these brass bushings i get alot of binding, and it seems better without the pin in so the cable has some movement

Awesome, someone finally demystifies the leaky shift lever. Anyone happen to know the part # of this little metal seal or where you can buy it online?

Mike1992 said:

I would, but with these brass bushings i get alot of binding, and it seems better without the pin in so the cable has some movement

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Heh seriously? You don't have cotter pins in the cable ends and it still works? That's funny, cuz I was sooo worried about using new cotter pins everytime I took the cables off. Geez, that's a releif.

FYI I removed the stock rubber cable ends at the trans and installed skate bearings. They're a perfect fit, and they're ball bearings.

I REALLY meant it when I said, "It's a bi*** to change that seal!"

I tried three times, and gave up three times.

If you wanna change the seal go to a mitsu dealer or chrysler, they can find it for you, i just rebuilt my tranny and its leaking from somewhere but it works great, im just gonna silicone that b*itch until it stops leaking.

I just noticed that my trans is leaking right where the shifter linkage goes into the trans. Everytime i drive the car i see a 3'' puddle under the car once i shut it off. I figure it must be leaking alot of gear oil when i am driving.
This trans only has about 1,500 miles on it as i bought it late last summer form TRE as a fresh rebuild. By no means am i implying that TRE does shoddy work as the trans shifts like butter and they have good customer service. What i don't understand is why would this seal go bad in such a short time unless it was either not replaced or installed incorrectly. I am waiting on a reply to my email from TRE but in the meantime if anyone knows what i could do to stop it from leaking that would be great. i figure to replace the seal the trans would most likely have to be torn apart and i don't have time right now because the shootout is this weekend. if someone could help me out it would be appreciated.

I have the same problem. apparently you can replace that seal but when i tried to get it off i couldnt get the pin out. i hit it with a hammer and a pick but it wouldnt budge. i guess i will just forget about it untill i feel like getting my shep transmission.

That seal can be replaced from the outside of the trans? is the seal right under that black boot on my linkage?

I dunno someone told me it could be replaced so i tried and i was unsuccessful. it was hot and i was getting agrivated so i gave up...

i think the black boot is the seal

dnhieu said:

i think the black boot is the seal

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thanks for the help. if that black boot is the seal, i feel like an idiot as it will be a simple fix. probably just pushing that boot back into place.
I was thinking there was a seal in the trans that needed to be replaced.
i'm going to look for an exploded view of the trans just to make sure.

according to this the boot and the seal are different.
http://www.usa-parts.ru/_pages/chry...yMXx8cm93Nj09MjFNfHxyb3c1PT0wMDAwMjAwfHxpPT0y

looks like i'll have to order that seal.

well the hard part is replacing the seal. if you you take a good look at it there is like a tiny pin hole with a rod running through it. i tried to take a nail and hit it with a hammer so i can pull the arms off it but it wouldnt budge from the inside....

No guys, you got it all wrong.

1. The shfat needs to be released from inside the tranny for you to change the oil seal, like a cam shaft seal.

2. The roll pin on the control shaft is there to hold the shift lever to the shaft and nothing else, removing it will not allow you to pull the shaft out. Do not hammer the roll pin especially when the tranny is still in the car, better yet, do not use hammer period as it will result in a bent shaft unless the shaft is well situated on a bench. I was able to use an air hammer with the right size tip on a 15k mile TRE tranny and had absolutely no luck with the roll pin on my 90'.

sorry for the wrong info. i thought i would beable to remove the roll pin and pick up the lever to replace what i thought was the seal (the boot)...

sorry again and good luck with that man
david

Well, one problem turned into an even bigger one today. I jacked the car up and upon further inspection noticed that not only is the linkage leaking but the input shaft seal is much worse and is leaking like a SOB. I pulled the boot off that the clutch fork goes through and my hand got soaked in gear oil. no wonder why my clutch disk would shudder from time to time lately. 1,500 miles on a freshly rebuilt trans and look what happens. now i have to dump more money into something that was already expensive to begin with.
I still can't understand how both of these seals went bad in such a short period of time. Sure i can get the seals replaced for free, but what about my new clutch disc that is ruined, and my many hours of labor, and the $150 shipping bill.

sorry to hear the bad news man. my car likes to do this close to race day also. it also always seems like when you try to do everything to perfection that something you couldnt help comes up...

good luck man
david

also the input shaft seal is the one that covers up the cv-axle right? thats an easy fix and cheap fix if thats the problem. if you fixed that leak you would at least beable to race because the leak at the linkage is very small...

dnhieu said:

also the input shaft seal is the one that covers up the cv-axle right? thats an easy fix and cheap fix if thats the problem. if you fixed that leak you would at least beable to race because the leak at the linkage is very small...

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No, input shaft is what goes into the clutch assembly located inside the bell housing.

damn that sucks for you man looks like no racing...

I had this issue about 2 years ago on one of my old dsm's. Pull the rubber cover thing up under the linkage. From there you will be able to see the top of the seal. Using a thin flathead screwdriver or the like pry it up as high as you can. Clean it up real good and glob a bunch of red rtv on and around the seal. Push the seal back down, push the boot down and let it dry for a few hours. Problem solved.

so leave the linkage connected. lift the boost up. lift the seal up. rvt under the seal. put back together and your done? i might try that....