Ok doesnt the cyclone intake manifold have some kind of valve that closes and gives better bottom end and opens for better top end and you need the ecu to work the thing that opends and closes the valve. Well I think that if I get the wastegate actuator off a car with a low boost setting like an old starion or old crysler turbo car, was hooked to the arm that actuates the valves it would open the valves when it saw like 6 or 8 psi which would be in the upper rpms plus you would be getting on it and need the extra air. What does everyone think?

Drew

I have an idea: don't waste your time

now wait a minute.....why not....thats kind of a negative attitude isn't it. i talked to a guy that was able to tap his fuel pressure solenoid to make the cyclone intake work.

Originally posted by rsh350
now wait a minute.....why not....thats kind of a negative attitude isn't it. i talked to a guy that was able to tap his fuel pressure solenoid to make the cyclone intake work.

Click to expand...

Point being? What did this effort gain him exactly? Ohhhhh... now he can say, "I have a JDM intake!"

-How about by using a shift light to trigger something like a boost control solenoid to switch the butterfly, let say you want it to switch at 4k rpm, then set the shift thingy to 4k, when the rev reach 4k, it open the BCS to direct vacuum or pressure to switch the runner. For those live in Ca, you can pass smog with the Cyclone so don't waste your time.

Like Batman said, it will be a wate of your time. The cyclone intake manifold flows worse the a 1G intake manifold. So why waste your time?

Take a look at one of the forums they did a test on Cyclone vs. stock 1g intake manifolds and the stock 1g manifold actuall flowed about the same amount of air if not more. Don't waste your time with the cyclone manifold the only dif is the name on it.

Well I think some people here need a little education as why Mitsubishi brought the Cyclone VGI into play. First off its true its volume is the SAME as the turbo US spec intake, and in mid range demands its cfm is a little laggy. In the end though it performs the same as far as FLOW goes. The Cyclone is not a bad investment for turbo or any car infact. The new Ztec engine has a VGI, Toyotas TVSI is the same thing, BMW has in the works an intake that varies from 9" to 26" in length depending on where the power band is. To try to modify it is a waste of time. Just connecting a hose from the extra hose port directly into its flapper control unit is really all you need and here is why. The VGI works in the bottom end, it increases the amount of torque the vehicle has off the line. It does this by giving two different geometries in the intake runners. The one in the bottom end is the longer runners which are always open, in the top end it opens its short runners to increase its flow as its demand for air increases. Now sucking air through a single small intake runner, like we did back in the golden days, is beneficial because of it increases the charge velocity of the intake port. Increasing the charge velocity causes the cylinder to "SWIRL" creating higher outputs as the flame front propagates through the cylinder, creating greater thermal efficiency compared to a FGI. This is why the big block two valve systems had much better lower end torque, but lacks in the top end because its cylinder are literally starving for more air. Hence the flow qualities of tunnel rams, and performance intakes with longer pipes in its plenumn. This is why vehicles that have a high demand of torque, mind you we are talking about naturally aspirated engines, have smaller valves. So by incorporating this in your car you are simulating the benefits of a 2 valve system with all the rewards of a 4 valve system in the top end. The benefits though only work whey you are in the HGs or have vacuum, and the butterflies close only when there is vacuum present in its flapper control. So by giving it a direct line you will reap all the benefits you need. I hope this will help you understand why they developed the intake in the first place, and that its not a waste of your time to install. It is by all means worth it. If I want I can peel out from the git go through half my gears on stock boost pressures. When you install it though there will be problems clearing the stock AC unit on US spec engines, nothing a little grinding wont fix. Have fun!!

First of all great post, but I'm not clear on how come the numbers are better on a 1G US stock intake manifold than a cyclone. Thanks for the info.

Mike

Remember the numbers are all CFMs at vacuum, not boost so on a turbo car that may be some what innacurate though usefull none the less. Not to say it didnt give us a clear picture of flow capabilities. Also it is its port deactivation tuning and its resonance tuning is what gives VGI its advantages. For street tuners this is great, for pro rodders this isnt. Pro rodders will want to see that 300+ cfm per cylinder, while street tuners will be lucky to flow 250cfm per cylider. The numbers shown is MAX flow, while the number used is quite different.

Is it worth the trouble to put a cyclone on for that minimal of a difference? And how do you activate the "thingy" to open the smaller ports? I will probably never use one due to it's cost and and hassle of putting it on but I want to make this a good thread to refer to. Thanks alot for all the good info.

Mike

It is minimal as far as difference goes,...but its that small difference that makes the unit so valuable for a turbo car. If you look at the time it takes for you car to come from the HGs or vacuum to when it boosts, this is what will change. If you put more force in the cylinders this will create the torque to launch off the line, spooling the turbo quicker, and the end result being a quicker 120' time and essentially a quicker 1/4 mile. The flapper is just hooked directly to any line past the throttle body. If you understand how this unit works you will understand why this is all you really need for a turbo car.

Alright, I fully understand now, except for one thing, the flapper runs off of vaccum? Thanks

Mike

It will close the butterflies for the smaller runners when vacuum is present, yes.

Well said LaserRST, im definitely keeping the Cyclone mani on the motor

I have a JDM motor with Cyclone intake mani in coming to swap in for my blown motor '91 talon

..how would i exactly get the butterly valve to work properly?

need u to bare with me during the swap

im gonna go ahead and use a wastegate actuator and hook it on the lever for the butterflies.. this should open the valves at 10psi!!

yea my cyclone is gonna give me more low-mid torque than yours!

so does anyone else tried using a WG actuator on the cyclone?

I orderd an entire GVR4 Front Clip,
and I am going to install the cyclone intake, and since i am going to have the Computer wiht it, I dont think I will have any problems.

Holy shit, Amazing,
that was my firstpost ever on tuners....


wow, im so much smarter now.
Its feels so great to be on the other end of these type of posts


thankyou tuners

why dont you just get a magnus or forrest manifold? and not worry about the cyclone. i am sure they flow pretty good.

This is an old thread that he dug up, don't bother replying to it.

Just take the butterflys out of the intake.