Get yourself a die grinder and some good carbide bits, and you can port it yourself. The EVO III 16G waste gate area needs ported extensively to eliminate any creep problems. There are several threads around on proper porting. Do some research, and if you have any questions you can ask. I ported mine, and it doesn't creep at all. Proper porting of the exhaust side will also increase flow.

My Evo 3 will be completely unmolested, but whatever you do definitely do not get the larger flapper door as that will cause the wastegate to blow open much earlier and will only hurt you when you actually try to run more boost.

Be sure to recirculate that type-s bov.

Consider getting DSMLink instead of the AFC and logger combination as it will be able to handle your 660cc injectors better, as well as be more user friendly and provide more options for you overall (deadtime control, better logging capabilities, stutterbox, etc etc) especially if you already have an EPROM ECU.

www.dsmlink.com and check the sticker in your driver side door jam for your production date--the earlier it is the more likely you have an EPROM.

i have been recirculating my type S and that won't change.

unfortunately i don't have enough money for DSMLink and i dont have a laptop. I already have the safc2 anyways. The only thing i have money for really is the turbo and a couple extra hundred for a logger setup.

thanks for the suggestions guys, anyone else have any input?

flinguist said:

Get yourself a die grinder and some good carbide bits, and you can port it yourself. The EVO III 16G waste gate area needs ported extensively to eliminate any creep problems. There are several threads around on proper porting. Do some research, and if you have any questions you can ask. I ported mine, and it doesn't creep at all. Proper porting of the exhaust side will also increase flow.

Click to expand...

This is exactly right, you really don't have much of a choice, anyone trying to tell you otherwise is misinformed. Your main concern here is boost creep, a problem that Mitsu housing are well known for, especially the EVO3. Let me break it down for you.

1. You will most likely be creeping with EVO3 and 3" exhaust, if you're not, something is probably wrong with your car. You must either port it or go with an external setup mounted on the manifold.

2. You don't want to pay for a vendor port job because it mostly focuses on increasing flow and will most likely do nothing to cure your boost creep, you will likely have to take it off and re-port.

3. You are now left with either port it yourself like flinguist suggested, find someone who knows how to port it for you or external wastegate mounted on the manifold.

4. If you choose to port it yourself, here are some articles/threads that flinguist was talking about.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186525
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183108&page=1&pp=25

Ive been reading up on porting a lot....and im a little confused. Looking at my turbo i can see that the area where the 02 connects to the turbo needs to be ported (the hole next to the wastegate hole). I see i can match it to the 7cm gasket to port it...i see i can also do that with the place where the exh manifold connects (by matching up the 7cm gasket). Also im not sure how to port the wastegate area...confused on that part. Also is there anything else i should port? If anyone could fill me in on the names of the areas i mentioned porting that would help so i dont have to look like an idiot describing the holes..

By the way this is for an EvoIII 16g.

Dont mean to steal your post but a quick question on the subject. My brother has a unported evo3/custom actuator and 2.5" exhuast with no boost creep at all. He he upgraded to 3" would this cause him to creep.

JayRolla said:

Dont mean to steal your post but a quick question on the subject. My brother has a unported evo3/custom actuator and 2.5" exhuast with no boost creep at all. He he upgraded to 3" would this cause him to creep.

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I've heard without porting there is no way to prevent creep. (other than going external wastegate). On a smaller exhaust you will expierence little to none. So if he upgraded to 3 inch he will most likely creep. He can prevent this by porting. Now i just need to know exactly what to port...

Thanks man, yea mine is fine with 3" exhaust and I have a ported evo 02 and turbo. I wish I could help yea, I had slowboy port mine for like $50 because I didnt know what to do it either.

JayRolla said:

Thanks man, yea mine is fine with 3" exhaust and I have a ported evo 02 and turbo. I wish I could help yea, I had slowboy port mine for like $50 because I didnt know what to do it either.

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I've heard the companies often dont port right. For instance theyll port and make it wider but not allow easy passage for the air to the wastegate. I think ill be alright when i port mine i just wanted to find out if anyone could help me with some of it. Mostly the porting of the WG flapper area. Ive been lookin at pics of good port jobs and am going to just try and copy those.

My mechanic looked at it and he is a machinist and he said that slowboyracing did a great job. He was actually surprised. But they have made 400+whp on a evo316g

jibberishballr said:

I've heard the companies often dont port right. For instance theyll port and make it wider but not allow easy passage for the air to the wastegate. I think ill be alright when i port mine i just wanted to find out if anyone could help me with some of it. Mostly the porting of the WG flapper area. Ive been lookin at pics of good port jobs and am going to just try and copy those.

Click to expand...

Okay. There are actually three options: port the internal gate, use an external gate or run 20psi boost. The first is what you're talking about, and the 2nd is possibly more expensive (not sure). The third option may be the cheapest in the long run if you intend on running moderately high boost (20psi).

As for porting, I did my own port job on my FP Big T28:

Turbine inlet:
I did a 45 minute practice run on my old T25 housing to get a feel for the tool and to get confidence in what I was going to do to my brand new housing. It turned out very nice, though I didn't polish it, and it gave me great confidence to do the B28. I ported the turbine inlet to the 7cm gasket. This was the major porting work and what will be done if you buy a pre-ported housing. I polished it a bit when I was done.

Exhaust manifold:
I ported my 2g mani to 7cm gasket. I did a lot of contouring of the passages but left the dividers intact (they serve a valuable purpose). I also smoothed out the rough, sand-cast texture and cleaned out the soot as far as I could reach with the Dremel flapwheel bit from both ends of the mani headers and cleaned the rest of the soot out with a toothbrush and acetone.

Wastegate (upwind side):
I opened up the wastegate entrance inside the turbine inlet so that the exhaust could find its way out the WG much easier. This involved a lot of contouring (not opening the bore of the WG opening where the flapper goes). When I got done, it was huge compared to the stock shape.

Turbine/wastegate exits:
I gasket matched the turbine housing to the stock gasket. This involved flaring the turbine exit smoothly from the stock diameter to the scribe marks I made from the gasket. I polished it afterward. Also, I had to bring the wastegate exit out to the scribe marks. This was more to have the openings match up between the turbine housing and O2 housing than for making a larger diameter for flow - remember that the flapper is in the way of most of that opening.

O2 housing entrances:
I gasket matched the O2 housing to the stock gasket. I again had to flare the turbine exit passage quite a bit in places to bring it out to the gasket scribe marks. Same with the WG passage. This was a bi***; the cast iron was much harder here than the exhaust mani. The turbine housing steel was like butter in comparison.

Pictures:

Turbine housing before and after:



Notice how much I took off around the wastegate entrance.

Exhaust mani afterward (whole thing, 1+2 runners, 2+3 runners, and #4 runner):





Hope that helps.

Yea that does help. Thank you! I got a manifold thats already ported so thats good...all i have to do is port the crap out of the turbo!

Great port job and post kenamond.

Heck yea that is some real good porting on the turbo. When I had my mani ported they completley hacked out that devider for the runners. Is that something bad to do?

JayRolla said:

Heck yea that is some real good porting on the turbo. When I had my mani ported they completley hacked out that devider for the runners. Is that something bad to do?

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They shouldn't remove them.

1+4 fire opposite each other and 2+3 fire opposite each other (each pair is out of phase by 360*).

So while either 1 or 4 is exhausting the other is not, so you need to redirect the exhaust into the turbine inlet or it'll run up the other runner (1 will blow up 4 and vice versa). Same goes for 2 and 3, but they aren't as bad, because they aren't aiming right at each other like 1 and 4 are. All of that is handled by the two smaller ridges on either side of the big ridge.

1 and 4 overlap with 3 and 2, so you want the "putts" from 2 or 3 to be "hidden" from the "putts" of 1 and 4 or they'll interfere with each other more in the collector of the exhaust manifold. That's what the big flap is for. If you look at Garrett's "Turbo Tech 102" page, you can see how high performance turbine housings and manifolds will keep the 1+4 and 2+3 gasses completely separate even around the turbine scroll. There's also a very familiar manifold on that page as an example.

Can anyone tell me how to port the wastegate/flapper area so it opens 90 degrees? Im confused on this process. I understand the rest of the porting except this. I will be porting in the next few days everything but the manifold because i got one thats already ported. Thanks!

I am about to port the exhaust manifold and was thinking of having it port matched to the exhaust manifold gasket to the head. So is that okay even though the head is still stock unported?

Thanks!

jibberishballr said:

Can anyone tell me how to port the wastegate/flapper area so it opens 90 degrees? Im confused on this process. I understand the rest of the porting except this. I will be porting in the next few days everything but the manifold because i got one thats already ported. Thanks!

Click to expand...

You port the o2 housing so that the flapper can fully open. Or you do what i did and buy the Evo III o2 housing and not worry about the flapper not opening 90 degrees, because there is tons of room in the Evo III o2 housing.

This might be a little late in the thread , but I have a 16g and 3inch exhaust and it creeps like a mother! At 15psi, I've seen my boost creep up to 24psi. Im going to port mine pretty soon, and I would recommend that you do the same. just my .02

jibberishballr said:

Can anyone tell me how to port the wastegate/flapper area so it opens 90 degrees? Im confused on this process. I understand the rest of the porting except this. I will be porting in the next few days everything but the manifold because i got one thats already ported. Thanks!

Click to expand...

The flapper will NEVER open 90 degrees. The actuator doesn't push it that far. It open up maybe 1/2" at most.

VFAQ is your friend:
http://vfaq.com/mods/porting-O2.html

Boostn92 said:

I am about to port the exhaust manifold and was thinking of having it port matched to the exhaust manifold gasket to the head. So is that okay even though the head is still stock unported?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

First off, I don't know anything about Galants, but if your motor is the same as a 1gt, then you shouldn't port your 1g manifold. I hear they crack too easily.

If you have a 2g mani on your 1g head, then the exhaust ports on the 1g head are larger than the 2g mani headers, and you could port these to match.

I don't think that it would be a good idea to make the mani header inlets larger than the IM exhaust ports, though.

travislaw said:

You port the o2 housing so that the flapper can fully open. Or you do what i did and buy the Evo III o2 housing and not worry about the flapper not opening 90 degrees, because there is tons of room in the Evo III o2 housing.

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What he said. When you have everything apart, you can see what's in the way and grind it back. Put the O2 housing on the turbine housing (maybe just put the bolts through but don't torque them), and make sure that the flapper doesn't hit the O2 housing either (sucks to find this out after you've reinstalled everything).

ShapeGSX has stated numerous times that the WGA on the evo3 doesn't open enough to benefit from this additional porting for the WG flapper, but if you have it all apart with a grinder in your hand already, it doesn't take any time at all to do it. Perhaps you can get a better WGA with a longer throw somewhere which will open the flapper all the way, and in that case, you'd already have ported the housing to permit it.

kenamond said:

First off, I don't know anything about Galants, but if your motor is the same as a 1gt, then you shouldn't port your 1g manifold. I hear they crack too easily.

If you have a 2g mani on your 1g head, then the exhaust ports on the 1g head are larger than the 2g mani headers, and you could port these to match.

I don't think that it would be a good idea to make the mani header inlets larger than the IM exhaust ports, though.

Click to expand...

1G and 2G exhaust ports on the head and the manifold are just about the same if not identical. The manifold runners should be a little larger than the head ports to prevent reversion.

I started porting my Big 16g tonight. I was concerned about the wastegate area. I ported it about as much as you did and I saw little cracks leading to the wastegate flapper. Sound I be concerned. Should I weld it and grind a little off? I think Im done with porting that area.