Have you tried adjusting the bov?

GVR4592 said:

Have you tried adjusting the bov?

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Thats what he did and yes that sounds like compressor surge.....my ssqv's sounded exactly like that when they were surging.

The adjustment screw on top of my BOV acutally came off one day, and it sounded similar to that. My car also didn't idle very good.

Dammit. Well thats a problem then. Because if I soften it any more, the bov starts opening up before I get through all my first gear boost, and it sounds just like chewbacca. Dunno what to do now.

dr1ftx3 said:

Dammit. Well thats a problem then. Because if I soften it any more, the bov starts opening up before I get through all my first gear boost, and it sounds just like chewbacca. Dunno what to do now.

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I gotta extra ssq , but seriously does the RS have a bottom vaccume port like the type S does ? If so tap your INTERCOOLER PIPING OR J PIPE if your 14B...anywhere before the throttle plate and run the lower nipple to that. I bet you will be 100 times happier wiht the bov. Goodlcuk.

Damn. I'm not getting my FMIC installed till next week. I guess I'll just run it kinda soft until then, well in actuality, thats what i've been doing this whole time..Trade ya RS for SSQV? =P

dr1ftx3 said:

Damn. I'm not getting my FMIC installed till next week. I guess I'll just run it kinda soft until then, well in actuality, thats what i've been doing this whole time..Trade ya RS for SSQV? =P

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haha Ill trade you an ssqv for 130 bucks, well heres the thing...if the RS is like the type s then it has the rubber diaphram and a port for the upper and lower. Usually they say to only run the top port, because our cars arent tapped before the manifold for a boost sorce. And heres a quote from a thread, I wrote this inthe other day.

"Its not that easy. Sure anyone can make a piston, spring and top pressure chamber...but we look to upgrade becuase those leak. Now designs such as the Type S and the tiny bit better ssqv were not though up in one day. The Type s is unique because it has an optional second nipple for better activation time, but its downfall is having the pressure build up on the bottom of the piston when under boost. The SSQV is similar becuase of the fact that it also has a second chamber under the diaphram only the SSQV doesnt give you the option to use it, you must. THe inner workings of the ssqv bov between the 2 rear chambers contain a 1 way seal. Under boost the seal lets pressure through the back of the bov through the seal into the chamber under the diaphram, then when vaccume between shifts is present the seal is sucked close while holding pressure under the diaphram and that paired wiht the vaccume pulling on the top of the diaphram allows the bov to open much quicker. The type S can react like this if you tap your intercooler piping and run the bottom nipple to that. The only reason the SSQV is better is becuase unlike the TypeS, the pressure that builds up in the intercooler piping doesnt push the valve open, it pushes it closed."

...don't forget, if your adjustment screw is too loose, you may be causing a slight vacuum leak as well...thus bad idle like was mentioned earlier as well

Interesting post about the SSQV. Now i'm wondering about this whole tapping thing. How exactly is it done? Easy? Hard? Any writeups?

...are you referring just to the tapping for an extra vacuum source?

Yeah I suppose. What EclipseTrbo was talking about.

dr1ftx3 said:

Yeah I suppose. What EclipseTrbo what talking about.

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Yea the tapping is very easy. find a nice spot preferably across from the BOV...and get a nipple fitting. Drill a hole slightly smaller than the nipple threading and then magnatize or vaccume the ic piping then thread the nipple in the piping and hit it wiht some JB weld. Some grind down the excess hanging inside the intercooler piping but mine was so minimal I left it go. But I did grind down the second one I did at the J pipe for mY MBC....I have alot of cool pics I need to get posted of this stuff here one for rerference though. Giveme a min.

Yeah...I believe he's basically saying you need an extra vacuum source for that second nipple on the bov. Just finding somewhere on the intercooler piping or j-pipe as he was saying for a barb fitting that you can run a vacuum line to.

XMasta19 said:

Yeah...I believe he's basically saying you need an extra vacuum source for that second nipple on the bov. Just finding somewhere on the intercooler piping or j-pipe as he was saying for a barb fitting that you can run a vacuum line to.

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Right but the idea is to have no VACCUME present...think about it at 20 lbs of boost everything see the pressure but when the thottle is closed the IC piping see MORE pressure instead of vaccume so wiht the lower nipple that will blow the bov open and that paired with the vaccume in the top chamber between shifts allows for perfect reaction
I drew some diagrams.....Ill post em in alittle.

When I get off of the phone ill go into it good.

check this out. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219259

2 of the diagrams are in there closer to the bottom and that pretty much describes what I was saying. Its a neat concept and also dont mind that T in the line from the IC piping to the 2nd nipple I made in my SSQV its capped of now.

So first of all I can tap anywhere in the IC piping, and second of all this will stop my compressor surge and make the BOV sound last longer?

dr1ftx3 said:

So first of all I can tap anywhere in the IC piping, and second of all this will stop my compressor surge and make the BOV sound last longer?

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Hey, you cought me just before I went to bed..

This second nipple will take the pressure from the Intercooler piping and use it to pressureize the chamber under the diaphram and yes that will eliminate the surge.

I put mine across from the bov because in theory the second nipples performance will be most consistant with whats going on near the bov, so if its that close then when the piping needs relieved the 2nd nipple will help open the valve and when that pressure is dieing down due to the bov, the closer the nipple to the bov the more accurate the air behavior will be and that will allow for proper control of the diaphram. Get what I mean ?

Having it near the BOV will yeild the best results.

if anything, if you dont like how its acts, then use the new nipple for your MBC boost source.

It sucks for me because it seems like there is no even median on the RS that is right between surge and leaking. Its either straight up leaking or half-surge holding. Sucks.. =\

dr1ftx3 said:

It sucks for me because it seems like there is no even median on the RS that is right between surge and leaking. Its either straight up leaking or half-surge holding. Sucks.. =\

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Right, thats the point of the bottom nipple with out it the vaccume alone between shifts is not strong enough to pull the valve open because the sping is so tight and when you losen it its not strong enough to keep is close. Now minagine its to tight and fluttering, then you run the lower nipple that adds 20+ lbs of pressure under the diaphram to help push it open.....it will work.

heres how the nipple looks installed. Just drill a hole slightly smaller than the nipple threads and turn it in to get snug then JB weld it and grind down the excess inthe piping.

Just did this one yesterday.

Ok so how do I run the hose from the bov though, the only other outlet I see on the bov is in the back and its like a really small hole thing that is flat w/the rest of the bov. Hmmm

i also have a question on this. i just put in my friends greddy type s and i had to have the tool with me cause i expected it would need some tunning. so we drove i got out and adjusted it to softer. then drove and adjusted to softer some more. then he went home, but later that day he says that he feels the bov might be a little off. tunning the dam things is harder than it seems and it seems like there is no right place to stop from being to hard and gettin flutter to being to soft and leaking. so does this mod that you did work for the type s as well? also the type s does have a nipple below the nipple that connects a vacuum hose to the intake manifold. do i need to T in that nipple just like you did in the pic? thanks.

Ok I didnt know if the RS had the 2nd nipple or not. I said above like 4 times IF it has the 2nd nipple, I wantst sure, but apparently instead of using a nipple they just put a hole there to relieve the pressure.

Also you guys are making it harder than it is.

Its simple if you have the 2nd nipple, tap somewhere BEFORE the Throttle body so when you let off the throttle the 2nd nipple sees the excess pressure in the intercooler piping...instead of the vaccume that is inside the Intake mani that is given to the top nipple; because its source is AFTER the throttlebody. See how that works?

About the RS only having a hole and no nipple if it were me I would just drill the hole bigger and tap it with a nipple, but Im not telling you to do that because I dont know how good you are, or if you feel like drilling a 100+ dollar item. So all im saying is you could attempt it, but im not responsible if you mess it up.

All in all after reading all this stuff and messing wiht the SSQ's and type s, the dodge garage mod on a 1G is looking pretty good haha Goodluck guys let me know what you end up doing.

I see what you mean. Sounds prety easy, just gotta drill in the hard piping and put a nipple there with some JB Weld. What size nipple do you recomend putting in? Same size as the nipple on the bov? I'm guessing I can just pick up the nipple to put in the piping at the local hardware store? Also, why do you have your two nipples from the back fo your bov connected to the intake manifold? This is why I thought I would just have to connect both the nipples to the intake manifold. Here's a pic, , of what I think has to be done then, just let me know if it's right. It might not be the best artwork but it gets my thought across. Thanks.

SpoolinTalon2 said:

I see what you mean. Sounds prety easy, just gotta drill in the hard piping and put a nipple there with some JB Weld. What size nipple do you recomend putting in? Same size as the nipple on the bov? I'm guessing I can just pick up the nipple to put in the piping at the local hardware store? Also, why do you have your two nipples from the back fo your bov connected to the intake manifold? This is why I thought I would just have to connect both the nipples to the intake manifold. Here's a pic, , of what I think has to be done then, just let me know if it's right. It might not be the best artwork but it gets my thought across. Thanks.

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Yes ! you got it. THe second nipple on my ssqv up top was because I removed my adjustment screw and had nothing to go there so I put that nipple there, Its gone now.

I got my nipple from a NAPA try to get something other than brass or copper because those strip the threads easier, but I used the brass and it worked for me. Just get is solid in the pipe and hit it with some JB weld and make sure to let the JB weld dry. IF for some odd reason you dont like how it acts after this just run your MBC to it.....you supposed to run an MBC to an independant source anyway. GoodLuck.

Also the reason BOV's.com says that if you connect the bottom nipple the bov will react slower and will not sound off as long...this is because when they did the 2nd nipple test they put it to a vaccume source AFTER the throttle plate and that would result in what I think happend:

the VACCUME effect in the LOWER diaphram will pull the valve CLOSED. Thats why when they let off the throttle, the vaccume sucked and held the valve cosed instead of blowing it open untill the pressure in the intercooler got so high is pushed the valve open for a split second and then surged the turbo boyond beliefe.

So yes the bottom nipple is for a boost ( pre TB ) source only. Let me know how you like the new set up if you get it done.

Right now my friend and I have our MBC's connected from the waste gate actuator to the bottom nipple of the MBC and then from the top nipple of the MBC is teed in to the vacuum hose running from the BOV to the Intake Manifold. Seems to work fine, what were you suggesting by saying that if I don't like how the BOV is reacting to the change, to just run it to the MBC then? Thanks.