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Auto to 5spd, Not sure what to ckeck next!

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baracuda645

15+ Year Contributor
82
2
Sep 12, 2005
hamlin, New York
Hi guys. I'm doing an auto to 5spd conversion. On top of that the engine and 5spd tranny are out of a 96 Tsi and i'm trying to put them into a 98 Gst Spyder. I've got the engineand tranny in and I also have the computer out of my 96 installed. I have disconnected the auto tranny control moduale. I have all my sensors hooked up (save for my reverse lights) I was to the point were, I though, she's ready to start. I turned the key and nothing. Well I did get a click sound from under the center console. Its not coming from the ECU, I know that without a doubt. I've also had my starter bench tested it's ok, but I'm not getting a signal to the starter. Now it is my understanding that I have a possible problem with the pins, that they are on the wrong places on there quick connects. I was wondering if this is correct and if someone had run into this problem before. If someone has a diagram of what they are suppose to be, could they share? Thanks for the help!
 
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I did a AT-MT swap on my 1G recently and in order to get the starter to work, 2 wires needed to be connected together in order for it to work. I am willing to bet the 2G is similar if not the same. Here is a link. Scroll down near the bottom for pictures and description on the wires. Not sure if the wire color location is the same on yours but maybe it will help you. Good luck.

http://www.ecanfix.com/~mdhamilton/autotomanual.html
 
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I did the swap too grab the inhibitor connector in your hand find the two thick wires cut them and solder them together. Only reason for this is to bypass the safety autos had an allow your starter to work.
 
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Thanks guys, I'm at my wits end with this one. It gives me a place to start. The wires look a bit different than whats in my car but i'm going to take the picture with me to be sure. Forgive this as being a noob question but i seen to have 2 quick connects that in my wiring that kind of look that way under the hood. I'm not even sure that they are the inhibitors though.
 
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basically find the thick cable that connects to the shift selector on the auto tranny and that is the inhibitor wiring work from there the starter wires are always the thickest of the bunch and there will be two wires.
 
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Perfect, I know right were that's at. I'm going to try and connect those wires. Cross your fingers!!
 
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hellotbone, thanks!! Picture is a bit fuzzy but it give me the connectors. You have just save me a lot of time and effort.

(bow to wiseman's wisdom)
 
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Glad I could help. Took us about 5 mins to figure out with a service manual. If there is anything else just get my attention I can help out.
 
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hellotbone
I was to the point were i was going to remove the old wirring harness from donor car and install. I was not looking forward to that. The only other questions I would be with the brake and reverse lights. I believe I have to run wires off of the switch on the tranny for the reverse lights (I havent finished reading all of your post to see if you covered that). The other problem that I have run into is that I have no brake lights. Running lights, headlights, turn signals and high beams but the brake lights to not come on. I've checked my fuses, they are ok. I have also replaced my switch at the pedal. Did you run into the same problem?
 
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I've been looking into the brakes and i found out that i should be getting power from the green wire for my brake lights. I will have to test the on Wed of this week. The reverse lights are all i have left. Do they also have 2 prongs that are can be connected as well?
 
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I'll sub to this so I can keep track of your progress lets make sure you finish this off so if others search they get the answer they need.

The brake lights work off the swtich in the peddle assemble you will hav eto check your and see if the switch is serviceable. You probably need a good mulit meter to check it. As for reverse that took some work using relays and a little wiring I totally can't remember how I did it so I can't help you there but it can be done.
 
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Baracuda why not get stall in your auto? You can benefit from that as well. Although manual is so much more fun! Good luck man and good job!
 
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I'll try and post some pics so other people can see what i did. Like i said, it will have to wait untill wed. I have a good mutimeter to test the cables. In the VFAQ I found info about the wiring for the brakes (colors and what goes were).

Baracuda why not get stall in your auto? You can benefit from that as well. Although manual is so much more fun! Good luck man and good job!
Click to expand...

When I bought the Sypder it was just a shell. The engine had spun a bearing and the trans had been sold (i did get to keep the engine). There were no doors, interior,wheels, lights, ect. I've been in the process of rebuilding the whole car using a donor Tsi (frame rotted out) . The Syper was an a/t and the Tsi was a m/t
 
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When i went to start the car and got a buzzing noise coming from a relay in my dash. I had just moved the starter back into the tranny just before i tried to start it. The relay is in the shape of a T, yellow and has 4 wires coming from it. 3 of the wires are black with red stripe and the last wire is black with a yellow stripe. My ingition fuse blew while i was testing the problem. I have been surching for possible answers in the forums most of them deal with a 1g. I want to make sure its the relay and not another problem. I also found that the nertal saftey switch is no longer getting power. None of the termial port seem to get any power, that were before.
 
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Well i didnt hear from anyone yesterday so i'm assuming that its a realy. Im going down to the store and getting new relays. One for my ECU, alternator, and the one that i cant identify. Hopefully that will will fix the problem. I do have the CAPS programs and still could not find the name of that relay. be back in a little bit.

Ken
 
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just tested the relay i was unable to name and it is operating properly. i used the diagram on the relay that states how it should operate.
 
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update: found out that the relay in question has a small wire, black with a red stripe and a silver dash every inch or so, that is not getting power. This looks to be the same wire that i was connecting to as a "jumper" to bypass my neutral safety switch. THe other larger wires, black with a red stripe (no dashes), get power when the key is turned.
 
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Talked to a dealership tech who walked me through troubleshooting the problem. He informed me that the jumper i had was wrong and helped me trace back the problem, i had blown another 3 fuses under my dash.
 
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The small black wire with a red stripe and the single siver dash runs from the relay to the inhibitor that was on the auto tranny (were you jump the connectors). I should jump to the wire right next to it solid black with a silver dash. The relay recieves the power once the key is turned from the large black wires with red stripes (no dashes). The tech i was talking with said i should be able to run my reverse lights from the inhibitor as well.
 
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