The connector on the trans is the reverse lights, I'm 99% sure. The connector should be around somewhere. I lost it before but then found it a while later. Looks like you are missing the BOV too. I'd check to see if the intercooler is actually there, but it looks like it is. Getting a new MAFS is going to be the only slightly expensive part. Check the classifieds to get one and a BOV. There are some bushings missing from the shift cables, some vendors sell upgraded solid metal ones instead of rubber.

I'll trace back that reverse sensor after work to see where it comes from. Good luck!

Ya, it looks like your BOV is missing. You should defintly give that car a bath and change that fuel filter( looks really rusty).

Use some skateboard bearings for bushings on the shifter, works great

Have Fun

I second the sakte board bearings, did ti last week and made quite a difference.

This link should help you out a little bit http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/1G/index.htm

Looks like the previous owner (?) had an aftermarket UICP, which would explain the missing BOV. It also looks like you need to get a new cap for your BISS, and an exhaust mani heatshield. Some people run without these, but uncovered exhaust manifolds like to melt alternators, so keep that in mind.


....


Oh, and you're missing a battery But you knew that already. .

I think i may have some parts that could help you out including a maf, and a dejon upper intercooler part but it i didn't really see much more stuff missing then what was pointed out.

thank you so much for the input guys alot of +'s going out one thing i noticed is the thing when there shifter linkage connects too it looks like something is broken here is this a seirous problem? i circled the area its hard to see ill take pics tomorrow
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/killerx911/prob2.jpg


Another thing is this guy before me welded a different BOV to the original pipe i believe its a turboX SSBV and i think it blows into the atsmospher but i could be wrong ill take pics of that tomrorow too.

also whats up with this skateboard bearings? when do i put these?
thanks
Brad

Everyone's talking about what you have circled pretty much. The two shift cables are supposed to have bushings on the holes on the end. It looks like one is stuck on the arm on the trans (left one) and the other is messed up/mostly missing. You press the new bushings or skateboard bearings into the holes on the cables, then they slide onto those arms. The cables just pull/push those levers, and the bushing is how the two meet.

Here's a link to upgraded bushings so you know what they look like, the stock ones are just covered in rubber: http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=16

Sorry I didn't trace back the reverse switch yet, it's been raining and I'm a pansy.

Skate board bearings rock! Cruise contol box, and the cable to the throttle body.

Holy oily rustbucket Batman! The reverse light plug comes frome a cluster of wires up by the starter. They should be strapped down to the tranny with one of the bendable holders. It can be a bit of a stretch to make it attach. Just double check that it works once you have a battery in. You'll definately want both heat sheilds for your manifold/downpipe. Aside from melting things w/o them you also want those exhaust gases staying as hot as possible on the way out to improve horsepower.

You may consider just buying a hard upper intercooler pipe or having one bent for you. You can easily pick up a stock 1g recirculating BOV from a junkyard along with the return hose if that is missing (weirldy formed so you need the stock one.)

That tube lying across the top of the engine looks to be the vacuume line for the BOV incase you were having trouble placing it.

If you don't have the rubber intake tube you might also want to buy a hard one or just make one from ABS pipe from Home Depot (there is a rediculously long thread on it somewhere, just skip to the end and start reading backwards if you're interested as there were numerous revisions to how to make it.) You will also want to throw a catch can on the end of that breather line coming from the valve cover. It'll spit oil all over the engine bay or your intake if you attach it like it was stock.

In case you don't know all of this already: If that engine has sat for a while, don't forget to pull the spark plugs, put a tablespoon of oil in each cylinder and turn it over a few times to lube things up. You probably want to use some engine oil flush before changing the oil too.

Best of luck with this beast. We'll be seeing you soon I'm sure.

turbo2086 said:

Skate board bearings rock! Cruise contol box, and the cable to the throttle body.

Click to expand...

He's got his cruise control box and throttle body cable. They're in a different location on early models. It's the angled, rusty-metal box with cables running out of it next to the passenger-side fuse/junction box by the strut tower.

thank you so much for all the help guys now is it possible to get these "skateboard bushings" from a place localy? so I could hook everything up? or do I have to buy them from an online store? what dimensions are they? Iv got a crap load of rollar blade baring would this work? but id still need something on the end to hold them right?
thanks
Brad

I believe there is a cotter pin that slides through the post on the lever after you slide the shift cable on. That prevents the bushing from popping off and the cable with it. Pop the hood and you will see what I'm talking about.

Roller blade bearings should work fine. Just measure and see if they'll fit. You'll want them to be tight enough in the cables that they can't slip out, loose enough going onto the shift forks that they don't have to be pressed on but tight enough that there isn't any slop.

All that holds the cables on to the shift forks is a cotter pin. I just used a heavy piece of wire, works fine.

Oh, and you're welcome, happy we could help.

ok so I had to compress the bearing into the shifter thing but theres a tiny bit of gap between the cotton pin it it moves a little is this bad do i need to put soemthing in there?
Ohh I got one more problem that rubber peice is saposto come out correct? i tryed yanking it out but no success? should i grind it? its gonna be hard to grind it from way down there is there an easyer way to get it out


B

A little side to side slop between the cotter pin and base is no big deal. The only concern is slop between the bearing and the fork.

You will need to get that rubber bushing and it's metal base off the fork. There is no easy way to get the forks out, aside from pulling the tranny. Just hit them with some penetrating oil and try to twist them loose with vice grips (carefully!!!! You don't want to damage the forks!) If that doesn't work, try holding a torch to them for a bit, that should work.

I would wonder why all the tranny stuff is undone, is the clutch any good? Almost looks like they went to change the clutch or ???? and ran into a snag and said screw it.

Booster2k said:

I would wonder why all the tranny stuff is undone, is the clutch any good? Almost looks like they went to change the clutch or ???? and ran into a snag and said screw it.

Click to expand...

ha ha thats a good question, I just bought a 2600 (i believe), presure plate and a tranny of a buddy that said there was no grinds so its a chance im taking but meh i guess well see penatrating oil it is then and if that doesnt work im gonna burn the crap out of it

might check the turbo too.....cause with it just setting out there it may have gotten a good bit of condensation in it