How much boost do you plan to run?

¨
I don't know.

I think 1 set at 18psi and the other at 21/22 psi.

maybe later a little more, up to 24 psi ...

Thanks

Mike

Get the 34mm wastegate. You won't have boost creep issues with that one, especially if you end up going with a ported manifold.

How much boost you are going to run generally tells you which flapper you will need. The larger 34mm flapper is there to help combat boost creep if you plan to run in the lower boost levels (basically anything below 20psi) but will actually kill flow above 20. So in the end its really up to you. If you are not going to run below 20 for very long I would suggest NOT getting the 34mm.

I run an un-ported, stock flapper Evo III 16g and it works great for me at 20psi.

HI there, IM also looking at purchasing the evo3... for 540.00 shipped.. But i was searching and found that turbochargers.com is selling the evo 3 Gt BBL ( is this a ball bearing turbo?) for 525.00 on ebay.. flows like 570cfm and 34mm wastegate... Im not sure but the Evo3 GT sounds like a better buy 2 me???

http://www.slowboyracing.com/evo3vsgt.htm

Go read that and you will find your answer. The evo 3 gt is crap compared to the real evo 3.

95DsmTsiauto said:

http://www.slowboyracing.com/evo3vsgt.htm

Go read that and you will find your answer. The evo 3 gt is crap compared to the real evo 3.

Click to expand...

People sould really STOP giving half the story.
http://turbochargers.com/Evo3GT.htm

Go there to get both sides and make your own choices.

The Evo 3 GT is not a ball bearing turbo as far as anyone knows. The upgraded wastegate flapper (both the 34mm option for the MHI Evo 3 and the 35mm one on the Evo GT) will help cure boost creep if you are trying to run low boost, however once you do have enough supporting mods and try to run higher boost (20-24+) you will have a much harder time than with the stock 31mm flapper as the larger ones will blow open too early.

Pressure = force x area. Thus, as you increase the flapper size (area) you are increasing the pressure created. This excess pressure is what causes the flapper door to blow open, causing slower spool and creating problems holding high boost pressures.

Hey, Thanks for the website links.. This is a very hard decicision.. I can see pros and cons to both turbos.. I dont know which turbo setup 2 go with.. The evo3Gt shows alot on the production of the turbo and I like that its factory ported. and flows more cfm... I just dont know.. Is anyone running the evo3 GT???

hey i've got the same question. does anyone have the evo 3 gt?

IA97GST said:

Hey, Thanks for the website links.. This is a very hard decicision.. I can see pros and cons to both turbos.. I dont know which turbo setup 2 go with.. The evo3Gt shows alot on the production of the turbo and I like that its factory ported. and flows more cfm... I just dont know.. Is anyone running the evo3 GT???

Click to expand...

I made this descision for myself 3 months ago and unfortunetly it was the wrong one. I bought an E3GT from T-chargers in hopes of saving a few bucks with it coming ported and flappered already. I was assured by T-chargers that the GT turbo was not just a knock off but a quality piece. I was also made aware of the warranty if ANY problems arise. I installed it with a new oil feed from the filter housing, along with a 2g manifold and EVO O2 housing. Less than 1 month later the E3GT has gobs of shaftplay and smokes with oil out the hot side. Up until that point, the car really ran great.

No problem because its covered under warranty right? Wrong. I've called, emailed, and even sent a letter to T-chargers with no luck. No one will return my calls and even when I get someone on the phone, they tell me it was an installation issue.

Buy the real E316G and save yourself the headache. Since the car has been down for over 2 months, I'm looking into a real E316G or possibly an FP3052 from what i have read else where.

-jon

You can get a MHI EVO III 16G at turbochargers.com for $459. Read the linked page carefully, and you'll see the MHI EVO III is being sold for that price also.

Hey,, Thanks for your reply steelcity, I will be going with the true MHI evo3. I know your only one person that has had said nething about the turbo but i know alot of people have said good about the true evo 3 and since it is a true piece.. and not a taiwan knockoff i will be going with the MHI evo 3... Thanks Again.. I appreciate it.. Larry

Hi,

thanks a lot for fast response....

So which flapper would you order if you would rund 17/18 PSI low boost and 21/22 PSI high boost.

also do you think the big SBR Fmic is overkill/ to big?

thanks a lot....

Mike_GSX

The FMIC is not overkill; more cooling is never really a bad thing. I would recommend you keep the stock 31mm size flapper if you're going to attempt running low-mid 20 psi boost.

I bought the evo 3 gt from turbochargers.com and i love it. before i bought a turbo i did research as well and asked people that have seen it in use that actually have tru knowledge of turbo's as well. One of the big convincers was a guy named vince that has a shop at the las vegas motor speedway. he has a 3000GT that pushes 700HP to the wheels. INSANE. he said that it was a very strong turbo and i would be happy. i installed it a little over a month ago and also a new fuel system and FMIC and had it on the dyno over there at his shop getting tuned with dsmlink. i was only running 14psi and hit 300HP with the evo3gt. im very happy with it.

bird man said:

i installed it a little over a month ago and also a new fuel system and FMIC and had it on the dyno over there at his shop getting tuned with dsmlink. i was only running 14psi and hit 300HP with the evo3gt. im very happy with it.

Click to expand...

With stock cams? that's awesome. Do you mean wheel or crank? You must have been leaned out very nicely and running high timing i suppose. I'm not questioning you, just wondering.

yes it was with the stock cams. people underestimate the potential of he stock cams in the 2g. they can handle alot more then credited for. the 14psi dyno i did was 260 at the wheels but would have went more ( the graph was still climbing when the timing belt snapped at 5000 rpm's) the guy doing the dyno said it would have reached 275 WHP it the pull would have finished. and the timing was absolutly perfect with no knock at all.

now keep in mind that was on a motor with 100000 miles and not the greatest compression. instead of just replacing the belt and valves im rebuilding the whold thing top to bottom. the compression will be back up to par and i will turn the boost up just a little more ( 16-18 psi ) and sould easily hit 300 at the wheels.