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Ultimatedsm

15+ Year Contributor
823
27
Apr 20, 2005
Scarborough, Ontario_Canada
Hey how are you guys doing? Alright, I have done a 6 bolt swap in a 95 talon TSI. I did everything on the RRE site and magnus site. The car starts up and everything. WHen I first had it the car would build boost no problem. However, later on it couldnt hold boost anymore. I didn't even do anything because it was just sitting there. There was a bit of vac leaks but I fixed them all.

Problem: under boost car bucks and sputters.



Troubeshooting tried so far:

1. Boost leak test. I had a few leaks and fixed them all. I even did a smoke test. I found out my compressor housing was cracked. I fixed that.

2. Mass wire wasn't on properly. I was getting a code for Mass air not detected. However I soldered that wire and thats done. I even changed the MAS and samething.

3. Checked my wires on my ECU to see if they were in the right places. (When you do a 1g in a 2g you have to either remove the pins in the ECU. Or you can cut the wires and solder them. I checked this twice and its fine.


So guys what should I do next? Could it be the coil pack or power transitor? Or could it be the MBC? Or even the wastegate. I dont know what to do. OLDMAN!!!!! I need your help!!!!! or someone just as good!
 
No I am not over boosting. I barely boost before my car acts jerky and bucking. Anyway I tried adjusting the timing from the CAS. I have it all the way to the left and amazingly my car runs much better. Instead of bucking and studdering on boost now its huffing kind of. I can actually see 5-9 psi but it huffs it out. Maybe I will try another boost leak test. I will change the plugs to the NGK 6's. Maybe get the 93-94 HALL EFFECT CAS to help with that missfire (1g in a 2g swap, its common).
 
I can physically easily open the WG with the actuator off of course. So it can't be stuck open or closed.
 
LOL sorry forgot that extra "0" Obivously you can't do 0.29 LOL. Ok 0.028. Thanks a lot. I will try this and give you some feedback.
 
Could be the TPS. Just unplug it then drive and see. If it runs better, that's it.

I am in agreement with what was said:
NGK 6's, and NGK plug wires. 7's are for high boost applications.

On a side note, the title of this post is completely non-descriptive.
 
ok I ordered the stock plugs, COIL PACK and I got my 1g BOV instead of that turboRFL. I want to ask a question about this 90 (1g) in a 95 car with a 95 EPROM ECU. When doing the swap, you swap the injector trigger wires on the ECU (Removing pins or cutting them and soldering them). Do I change my coilpack firing order? Is it true if you are using a DSMLINK your suppose to keep the firing order stock on a 95-96? I don't have the DSMLINK installed yet, I do have an extra ECU that I socketed. I am using an eprom ECU that is not socketed at the moment. Any ideas on this?

This the method I used:

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g95-96M2.htm

I believe I saw something that if you have a DSMLINK on a 95 ECU you don't need to swap the firing order.
 
I really need the question above answered. If you know just shoot away. Thank you very much.
 
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