Make sure everything is plugged in-plugs, wires, the plug for the coil pack and the plug for the power transistor pack. You can check the power transistor pack. Also check the cam trigger that's behind the intake cam gear. Maybe it went tits up and is not sending a "fire" signal causing your spark to never fire. If it's none of those, it *might* be your ECU. I'm pretty sure it's not your ECU though. They don't seem to fail very often. Good luck man.

-Drew

check ignition fuse

ADrewzki said:

Also check the cam trigger that's behind the intake cam gear. Maybe it went tits up and is not sending a "fire" signal causing your spark to never fire.
-Drew

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What does it look like

It's the only sensor located directly behind the intake cam sprocket. It's on the cylinder head.

Do you have +12V on each side of coil primarys when key is on? (power transistors pulse a ground on one side at firing time)

luv2rallye

Do you have +12V on each side of coil primarys when key is on? (power transistors pulse a ground on one side at firing time)

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That would be the right way to go. The Black/White wire is the feed from the ignition switch. The Blu/Black and the Blu/Red are the two ground circuits that fire the coil. If you take a test light, you should have power on the ground side with the vehicle in key, on engine off. If you crank the motor, both the the ground circuits should start flashing the test light. If there is no power you'll need to check the feed circuit. If there isn't a blinking light (but is on), you can test the power transistor by momentarily (very quickly) grounding the Brown/Red wire and the Black/Blue wire at the power transistor. If you get a spark out of the corresponding coil, then you have a trigger problem (crank or cam sensor) or PCM issue. No spark and you'll need to check for power and ground at the transistor.... The diagnostics go on, but that's where you need to start. Otherwise start looking at the crank sensor, which tells the PCM when to trigger the transistor which fires the coils. If there's power to everything and no spark that's pretty likely.






If power feed in to coils. If there is power then the coil must be open (I know you checked it).
3) If there is

Does changing the head have anything to do with it. I went from a 2g head to a 1g head. with a 1st gen bottom. Is there something i have to do differently.,

I dont have a test light., Can i do the test with a meter. When you are talking about testing the blue/black and the blue and red wires that fire the coil is that on the coil pack or before the plug?

If power feed in to coils. If there is power then the coil must be open (I know you checked it).
3) If there is

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Sorry, I didn't mean to add this or the picture. It just gets too deep too fast!

But if you are wondering that is the coil and injectors being commanded on by the PCM. You can see the injector firing on the bottom. The coil is firing on the top. IF you have good cam and crank signals, this is what the computer does.

For fun here's another picture of when the crank sensor signal is lost. You can see the injector on the bottom is still being commanded, but the ignition signal lost at the end of the screen. The vehicle was still running at this point, but very poorly and would stall and not restart at times. This is the proper way to verify what you need without changing parts, but tools like this is not in most people's budget or within their skill level.

RichardsGST said:

Does changing the head have anything to do with it. I went from a 2g head to a 1g head. with a 1st gen bottom. Is there something i have to do differently.,

I dont have a test light., Can i do the test with a meter. When you are talking about testing the blue/black and the blue and red wires that fire the coil is that on the coil pack or before the plug?

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I've never done the head swap and don't own a 2g, but I'm assuming you kept the 1G CAS with the 2G head? If so, then you really haven't changed anything electrically speaking. And even if you had the timing belt off, you'd still have spark. I'll leave the CAS subject up to smarter people though, chime in if I'm wrong.

You can use a meter, but the update is so slow that you may not see the pulses of the voltage from B+ (battery voltage) down to near 0V (usually 100mV or less). Most meters will just average the value, so it's hard to tell if you really got any kind of ground signal when cranking. You can give it a try though.....and you can obviously use it to check for power to the coils and power transistor just fine. If you have a linear bar on the meter you will probably have better luck. If not, and you want to diagnose these kind of things, you will need to have a good meter, test light and my favorite, a "power probe (about 100 clams)". The power probe is a logic probe that also allows you to apply a power or a ground. These test could all be done fairly well with just a power probe.

A 1g head uses a CAS whereas your 95 head would've used a trigger plate behind the intake cam gear. Check behind your cam gear for a sensor that is not plugged in. You will have to mount the sensor and make sure your cam gear has the "fins" on the backside

OR

You can wire in a 1g CAS and have it supply your crank and cam signals. I'm all for the second option because you can tune your base timing with it.

ADrewzki said:

You can wire in a 1g CAS and have it supply your crank and cam signals. I'm all for the second option because you can tune your base timing with it.

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That is what i did. it ran before but know it wont and i didn't change a thing besides going from a 1gen 7-bolt head to a 1gen 6-bolt head. This prob of mine is pissing me off. I cant get a spark i know there is power to the coil pack. there has to be i didn't change anything.

Have you checked the CAS then? You can take it off the head, turn the key to "on", and then rotate the CAS by hand. Leave the power and ground wires intact and measure output for the cam and crank outputs. You should get ~5Vdc when the CAS is sending a signal to fire. You should also hear the injectors pulse. If you don't get the voltage or the injectors pulsing, it might be that your CAS is dead.

-Drew