Sleepy Eyes [Merged 9-7] snake snakeyes half chicklet mod

hewhoisknot · Jul 21, 2005

no, the lights will stay in the fixed position and level you set them at no matter if they are on or off... the easiest way to do it that i do it is to just pull the connector off the actual motor for the light then crank the little red knob on the side and viola!!!! sleepy eyes

Talesin · Jul 22, 2005

Personally, I did the chiclet mod. The up/down switch will only actuate the popups while the headlights are off, so you can catch them partway up or down. Just search for 'chiclet mod', and ignore most of the instructions. Once you find the little white connector-lump (mine was electrical-taped to another bundle, was a PITA to find due to that!) just take a screwdriver, put it behind the little tab, and SHOVE the chiclet out. No needlenose pliers needed.

I'm working on upgrading the chiclet mod though... looking through the shop manuals, I believe if you cut one of the 'legs' off the chiclet and put it back in, your fog lights will work again. (Standard chiclet mod disables fog light use) I just have to figure out WHICH of the legs, and doublecheck everything to be absolutely certain.

Also, I've found the pair of pins on the ECU that you need to jumper to allow you to operate the up/down switch while the headlights are on (after chicletmodding), though that would disallow 'catching' them to do sleepy-eyes (or stoner-eyes, if you have one that comes up faster than the other).

iceman21 · Sep 12, 2005

Thread revival

I have been trying to figure out what Jose has used for his actual headlights.

Anyone have any ideas. I have searched both here and DSMtalk for the answer and got tired after wading through 30 pages of posts. WTF

ArcticTsi · Sep 13, 2005

Here are some pics to give you an idea. I have changed the driving lamp I was using in these pics. I'm using a larger lamp that has greater wattage out put. but they are still somewhat cheap. I think I spent $70.00 on them and they hold a 100 watt H3 bulb that I have tied into the stock wiring with a 15 amp fuse in line. the fuse kit comes with the driving lamps. be sure to look for the box that states driving lamp, not fog lamp.
hope this helps you. then make some sort of mount like you see that I have made and angle the lamps just right behind the clear stock lenses. the weight savings with this mod is an easy 25lbs, after the new driving lamps are installed. see picture of headlight guts on scale.

Jose
Arctic Racing

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Kalow · Sep 13, 2005

I wouldn't suggest it. I think it looks good but you can get screwed big time. A friend of mine got hit head on in his probe with the lazy eyes. Well, the passenger ended up suffering major damage. It was totally the other cars fault, but due to the improper lights they could not press charges. You do what you want, but keep that in mind.

iceman21 · Sep 13, 2005

At that point you would go to court and provide evidence that the lights that were in your car at the time of the accident were a higher wattage, aimed better, and illuminated the road better and I almost sure that anyone with a couple of brain cells would let you off the hook.

Besides if it is a front impact, how are the cops going to tell if they are the OEM headlights?

Kalow · Sep 13, 2005

iceman21 said:
At that point you would go to court and provide evidence that the lights that were in your car at the time of the accident were a higher wattage, aimed better, and illuminated the road better and I almost sure that anyone with a couple of brain cells would let you off the hook.

Besides if it is a front impact, how are the cops going to tell if they are the OEM headlights?

He didn't have Arctics setup, just lazy eyes. The detectives can tell when the car in impounded. Trust me, i can happen, i know this because it did.

Stapl3 · Sep 15, 2005

Looks like your headlights are broken.

GSEclipse06 · Sep 15, 2005

arctic your headlights are frickin bright.

Gary 420A RS · Sep 15, 2005

good post should make it a tech article

ArcticTsi · Sep 15, 2005

GSEclipse06 said:
arctic your headlights are frickin bright.

They are, they illuminate the road much better than the stock lights. The old stock sealed halogen lights were just not cutting it, even when I replaced them with some of the sylvania ones, which were suppose to be much brighter, they really were not. So the aftermarket 100 watt driving lamp kit brightens up the road and well as shedding some weight off the car. bright lights = bonus :thumb:

ArcticTsi · Sep 15, 2005

I also forgot to mention in additon to shedding the weight and brightening to road ahead. Removing all the headlight guts allowed me to relocate my air filter from within the hot engine bay to were the old pop-up light assembly was, so cooler air = happier motor

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Thomas91169 · Sep 17, 2005

iceman21 said:
At that point you would go to court and provide evidence that the lights that were in your car at the time of the accident were a higher wattage, aimed better, and illuminated the road better and I almost sure that anyone with a couple of brain cells would let you off the hook.

Besides if it is a front impact, how are the cops going to tell if they are the OEM headlights?

this is america, not japan(where it says youre from anyways). if theres any signs of tampering with stock equipment, they will use that against you. and no, our judicial system doesnt have a couple brain cells to think with anymore.

manwithaGSX · Sep 17, 2005

that link didnt work, is this what you guys are talking about ..... http://www.pivotusa.com/accessories/pivrhu.htm

iceman21 · Sep 17, 2005

Thomas91169 said:
this is america, not japan

Thanks for the heads-up. I kind of wondered why there so many damn SUVs here in Japan anyway.

If the fact that you had aftermarket lights on your car makes you at fault for an accident that you were trully not at fault for, then you either didn't get a laywer that was worth his fees or you didn't get represented at all.

Jose, I have left an email or two for pilot asking this question but I haven't gotten a reply. So I will ask you, what was the cost of the controller from them?

Thanks

ArcticTsi · Sep 19, 2005

iceman21 said:
Jose, I have left an email or two for pilot asking this question but I haven't gotten a reply. So I will ask you, what was the cost of the controller from them?

Thanks

If I recall correctly, the only unit that was available in america was about $100.00 us currency, where the cheapo unit I was running was only about 20 bucks american.

pic of my relocated air filter in action, it was about 100 degrees on the track that day with what felt like 100% humidity, so the car felt like a sauna inside, hence the window down.

Jose

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iceman21 · Sep 19, 2005

Would this PIAA kit work, instead of an H3 housing?

http://www.piaa.com/Lamps/Lamp-pages/2100hid.html

*EDIT* Damn, I just found out the price on the damn kit and it's around 900.00. That cost more than I bought the damn car for WTF

The 2100XT might work though.

ArcticTsi · Sep 20, 2005

iceman21 said:
Would this PIAA kit work, instead of an H3 housing?

http://www.piaa.com/Lamps/Lamp-pages/2100hid.html

*EDIT* Damn, I just found out the price on the damn kit and it's around 900.00. That cost more than I bought the damn car for WTF

The 2100XT might work though.

I just bought cheaper Pilot Brand Driving lamp set from Autozone. They are not HID's or anything, just put an extra bright bulb in the housing and called it a day. :thumb:

I think something in the 70.00 ballpark would be more than enough.

Jose

ryu · Sep 22, 2005

that looks sweet! and shit, its functional. another mod on the list

kwaliph · Dec 1, 2005

If you have stock fogs and you just completed the chiclet mod just to find out you lost your awesome fogs? Don't want to have annoying "Daytime-Running Lights"? I have the solution for you. All you will need to do this is: a test light, about 3" wire, two male insert blades big enough to fit over the wire (any size if you have grinder

), and a crimper. Oh and a screw driver to take your interior out but you know that.

Now, if your batt. is in stock location, you can simply connect the testlight to batt+ and poke either one of the slots on opposite ends of the empty chiclet connector but not the middle (this is your power source).
With key on/engine off, and turn on all the lights all the way on (low beam) including the foglight switch, one slot should pop up the headlights all the way up. While the other should turn your fogs on. Now all you have to do is put the blades on the wire and put one blade in the middle slot and the other in the slot that turns your foglights on. Tape it back on the harness with electrical tape to keep it safe, and viola! Your fogs now work like stock form and your headlights won't pop up when they turn on!

P.S. Hey kyledykstra, where did you find the brochure! If you have more pics or know where to find them please let me know, thanks.

Need pics? Just ask.

Talesin · Dec 1, 2005

Alternately, you can figure out which 'leg' to cut off the chiclet in this manner.. snip the leg going to the headlight control, and reinsert, leaving the middle and fog light 'legs' untouched. Don't have color codes for this at the moment.

You can also jump two pins on the ECU connector to allow pop-up/down control whether the headlights are on or off; I'll have to look up which pins to paperclip (or wire with spade connectors) between.

Unfortunately, the above methods default to the stock mode limitations... namely, if your high beams are on, you can't use your fogs. And with how dim the lights are normally popped up, they're much, much worse down.

The answer? Just run power directly to the fog light switch. Pull the instrumentation cluster as noted above, but pop out the fog light switch instead of the headlight switch. The green line gets power when the headlights are on, and in 'normal' mode.. no power when headlights are off or in high-beam mode. Just splice a line into the green wire, and run it down to the heater fuse in your fusebox, which is less than three feet away. Boom, always-controllable foglights that can be used for DRL if you like, which will turn off when you take out the key. If you want to be able to have your fogs on while high-beaming, you'll need to ground pin 2 of the foglight relay to the body.

Next project... swapping the corner marker lights and turn signal locations.

kwaliph · Dec 12, 2005

If I'm not mistaken, I remember seeing the power source to the "chiclet" connector is spliced after the module that shuts off power to the fogs when highbeams are activated. I haven't tried this but i would imagine if you supply a constant power to the fog light slot, you would get power to the fog light switch. Again, I have not looked at the diagrams yet (I will tomorrow). However, the power source to the fogs might be disconnected alltogether (not just the relay) to save voltage for the demanding highbeams, thus the switch would be useless. Also, I was assuming it's priority to be able to return to stock form. If that's not an issue, then i recommend Talesin's methods (they seem to be more permanent). I also didn't feel like messing with my dash if I didn't have to... (lazy) :cool:

BTW, Before I looked into this topic, I wasn't able to find any prior info. Now there are plenty of options to go with the nice "chiclet" mod. :thumb:

AndrewD5418 · Mar 27, 2007

Talesin said:
Alternately, you can figure out which 'leg' to cut off the chiclet in this manner.. snip the leg going to the headlight control, and reinsert, leaving the middle and fog light 'legs' untouched. Don't have color codes for this at the moment.

You can also jump two pins on the ECU connector to allow pop-up/down control whether the headlights are on or off; I'll have to look up which pins to paperclip (or wire with spade connectors) between.

Unfortunately, the above methods default to the stock mode limitations... namely, if your high beams are on, you can't use your fogs. And with how dim the lights are normally popped up, they're much, much worse down.

The answer? Just run power directly to the fog light switch. Pull the instrumentation cluster as noted above, but pop out the fog light switch instead of the headlight switch. The green line gets power when the headlights are on, and in 'normal' mode.. no power when headlights are off or in high-beam mode. Just splice a line into the green wire, and run it down to the heater fuse in your fusebox, which is less than three feet away. Boom, always-controllable foglights that can be used for DRL if you like, which will turn off when you take out the key. If you want to be able to have your fogs on while high-beaming, you'll need to ground pin 2 of the foglight relay to the body.

Next project... swapping the corner marker lights and turn signal locations.

Sorry to bring up such an old topic, but how do you ground pin 2 of the foglight relay to the body? Which wire is it?

xtreme-elements · Apr 13, 2007

ya im looking for the same mod and i cant find it either... let me know if you find the correct answer

Talesin · Apr 14, 2007

You can cut off/file down one of the legs on the chiclet and reinsert it to get 'normal' foglight operation back. Can't remember which one it is though, and can't be arsed to pull out my shop manual and track it down. One of the three wires that go into that connector supplies power, one goes to the foglight switch, and the other goes to the forced-popup function.

Could also just cut and tape the wire that was going to the auto-popup and put the diode back in unaltered (leaving some slack on the wire in case you want to put it back the way it was), but again don't remember which the correct wire to cut would be.

Extra-alternately, you could route the wire going to the headlight switch to a switched power source.

Had a friend who claimed he figured out which pins to jump on the ECU to allow the headlights to be popped up and down while the lights were on, but then you can't make them sleepy any more, unless you ran a wire from one to a toggle switch (somewhere) and then to the other pin.

For fully rewiring the foglights for independent operation, there's an article up on http://www.vfaq.com in the electrical section, but it involves a lot more cutting of wires and running them through the engine bay.

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Sleepy Eyes [Merged 9-7] snake snakeyes half chicklet mod

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Gary 420A RS

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manwithaGSX

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