unless I misread something, i'm assuming the engine is rebuilt. In that case, I would ask for more than 12K. I live in Canada and guys are asking roughly 10K US for a stock 2G. As long as the car is in good condition, all the stuff you listed would effect the price a little but people may also be hesitant about buying a car with that much done to it. I know I was.

I appreciate that very much. The car hasn't been dogged at all cause I havn't even got to drive it yet with all this new stuff. I would be hesitant too if I saw it but Mannnnn, the money you save when you think about it, I was in that position before also.

Most buyers in search of a car usually frown upon modded cars. I don't think they would be willing to part with $12,000 for a modded car.

Appraisals-by-email are coming to an end, for reasons that should be more than obvious (we can't see the car).

Ask a local DSM-savvy friend what they think it's worth. To put it up for sale, add $3000 to it. You just might find the ass for that seat.

92 talon 6/4bolt
140k
Black on Black leather


6 bolt motor – compression is 170 -165-170- 160

New timing belt

New balancing shaft belt

New water pump

New starter

New 3g lifter

Fresh head

New Clutch

Transmission shifts good

4 bolt rear end


Performance parts

3 inch cat back with Apexi N1

Sprint lowering spring

Rota 17inch wheels with good 215/45/17 Kumho’s
owned by a torquefreaks employee

I'm interested in buying this 92 Gallant VR-4. The car is completely stock never been modified. The car has 191,000 miles on it and the engine is tired, the turbo is tired, however it does not appear to leak oil it just burns it.
The transmission shifts good, mechanically I would say the car is in excellent condition considering the high milage.

The exterior is flawless paint is not fading, no door dings, no rust, however the front fender and rear fender do need replaced or repaired, other than that it is very straight.

The interior is in good condition as well. P/l P/W everything electrically works well.

This car has a salvaged title.

I know it's rather difficult to estimate a value without seeing the car or driving it. Thanks for any input though.

Given the rarity of GVR-4's you're not going to be going by Kelly's Blue Book or NADA values, but rather on the condition and demand for these cars. Having said that, if it's clean, rust free, and has a relatively good engine, a stock one can go for around $2500-3500, even with the salvage title. Salvage titles can work to your advantage only if you have hundreds of thousands of cars to pick from. On the other hand, you only have 3,000 to pick from. If he doesn't sell it to you, there's a line out the door of Galant enthusiasts who will pick it up at his price.

Buy it, do a fresh rebuild, slap in a 16g and have at it.

I agree.yes the rareity of the car makes it of high demand,but like always when buying a car,talk him down.

If it's rust free and you don't buy it - I'm standing in line already...

Sun Roof ? (aw - I really don't care)
What color (aw I really don't care)
Stock usually = not really been abused - that I do care...

Personally if it is truly rust free - I'd definately be willing to pay $ 3500.00

PS I'm an original owner (bought new off lot in 92) and often times I really wish I had a second one (So when I am doing a few mods to first one - I'd still have one to drive)

Only thing - if it's not a true southern car check the rear steering lines - most northern cars are rusting out about now (or have already).

Well I went back and noticed that is starting to rust in spots, but definitely not rusted out. He is asking 2,500. Any other input?

i dont know if this is the best place for this but i will post here move it if you have to.

i have a 92 awd tsi, fresh rebuilt motor with jdm head gasket, new gaskets and seals all around. the car is completely gutted with 6 point cage. there is a jamex racing seat in it apexi rsm, defi boost and fuel pressure d gauges. moroso switch panel

as far as under the hood there is a brand new 2600 and fidanza flywheel.
turbonetics t3t4 on ss autochrome manifold to a rnr dp.
adfx big front mount to 3" gmmaf/maf translator on dejon upper intercooler piping
dejon 3" intake
10.5mm wires
optima red top
prothane mount inserts
new napa shafts
jaz breather tank
summit coolant tank
hallman manual boost controlor
blow through fan

rx7 rims with advans
upgraded to 2 piston calipers in front.

no ps, no cc, no ac, no abs, no heat core, no fans inside, no tar, no carpet, no inner plastic in trunk no passenger seat, no rear seats, no bumpers, around 2500 lbs with driver

needs only a dp back exhaust and front intermediate shaft

body is been resprayed looks decent everywhere except the front may need some more spray the car was backed into with no bumpers so it has some cracked paint but no damage.

im curious because i just dumped like 6000 or so into it and i might be moving to california.

if you can give me an estimate that would be great

I'll tell you right now you will NOT get your money back from what you put into the car...I'd say 4K to 5K if the car is in great condition, 3 to 4K if the car is in OK condition.

i saw a 1996 eclipse GS-T 5-speed with 130k onit for $9,000. is this worth it? its at a mitsubishi dealership. im hoping i can talk them down because of the high miles. the guy said he knows the whole history of the car. it was owned by a 60 year old man and was originally purchased at the same dealership. it got a new timing belt at 60K miles and at 120K miles. it is bone stock and he has all the receipts and stuff like that. is it worth it and how much do you think i can get him to go down?

thanks for the reply i knew i wouldn't get what i put into it. but i wanted to see where i stand

i wouldn't give a dealer more than 5,500 for that... i don't care how the car was driven or taken care of, miles are still miles. 9k is an awful lot for a 9 year old car with 130k miles on it.
i would see if you can talk him down to at least 6k.

how long has the car been at the dealership?

Mike

9k is high for a 96 gst. Especially with that mileage, but hey, thats the price you get when you got to any used car dealership, always overpriced.

It's going for 9K simply because it's at a dealership. It may take a while, but you can find a gs-t with lower miles for less. Let the dealer sucker someone else out of their hard earned cash.

Spln_Hrd said:

Well I went back and noticed that is starting to rust in spots, but definitely not rusted out. He is asking 2,500. Any other input?

Click to expand...

Yeah, get it before the GVR-4 people find out, otherwise you'll be kicking yourself over passing up on one, like I have been for the past year and a half.

im a GVR4 owner.. usually they will say a tottaly rust free body is worth $3500+

under 100k and rust free usually worth $5000+ (ive seen the lower miles really clean stock ones go for roughly $7k)

i bought mine with a 130k 2 little rust spots shep tranny act 2600 with act flywheel and a boost/oil pressure gauge ss brake lines for $5000.

but ive already got about 6-7 grand stuck in the dang thing ontop of that .
they are fun cars... AWS not worth it get rid of it and do a 4 bolt swap if you buy it.

What's an reasonable price for this 95 talon tsi according to you. Be honest
Here is the info.

1995 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD

118k miles on body, 40k miles on 1st gen. Engine.



Up for auction is my 1995 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD. This is a VERY nice car, and has been very well taken care of. The paint is in great shape, it runs and drives perfectly. I have always run Premium 93 octane in it and changed the oil every 2500 miles with mobil 1. boost is set at 20 psi. this vehicle has well over $12000 in aftermarket parts, I have receipts for almost everything (engine, tranny, ECU etc…). The car is daily driven, meaning I drive it to and from work. I love this car and I have always babied it.

This is not a show car, it is very fast and only has 40k miles on the new engine. Also, it is an engine out of a 1st generation eclipse so you don’t have to worry about crankwalk like you would any other eclipse/talon with the factory engine. Tires were put on in febuary and have less than 2000 miles on them, they are practicaly brand new.



The body is in great shape, there is no rust, It has one little door ding (that I only notice when I’m waxing the car.) the front bumper cover is from a 1997-99 Talon and because the vehicle has been lowered, the underside of the bumper has a few scrapes but nothing you can see unless you lay on the ground and look. The rear spoiler is from a 97-99 eclipse turbo, it has been painted to match the car.



The interior of the vehicle is also in very good shape. It has leather seats (power driver side) , a sunroof that slides all the way back, leather shift knob and steering wheel. Everything works on the car (a/c , cruise control, all lights, etc…) one of the seams on the drivers seat is riping a little. But it’s nothing really noticeable, especially when you’re driving the car.



The tuning is handled by software called DSMLink. This software talks directly to the modified ECU. It's able to tune fuel, timing, rev limits, stutter box, full throttle shifting, and much much more. DSMLink is truly a powerful tool, only matched by a standalone (in very capable hands) and is very user friendly



Engine mods:

1st gen JDM engine (6 bolt) swap installed professionally

Cyclone intake

EVO III 16G turbo

ACT 2100 clutch

RC Enginering 550 cc injectors (red top)

Accel plug wires, NGK BPR7ES plugs

Trust Front mount intercooler and all upgraded hard piping

HKS green hi flow air filter with Injen hard intake pipe

3” turbo back Focuz exhaust with 5” tip

Autometer triple A-pilar pod with Boost/air fuel/EGT gauges

Apex Turbo timer

Extreme manual boost controller

Short throw shifter

“Crushed” 1st gen Blow off valve (also comes with Apex twin chamber BOV not mounted)

aftermarket oil cooler

Shep fully rebuilt Transmission with upgraded racing gears 1-5 ( www.shepracing.com )

DSMlink V2 engine management (timing, fuel and airflow control. Stutterbox, antilag, nitrous controls, datalogging, OBD II DTC’s reader go to dsmlink.com for more info.)



Suspension:

Front and Rear Mach V sway bars, Blue Tokico shocks with Eibach springs, front and rear camber kits.

17x7” Enkei Shogun Rims with Brand (less than 1 month old) new Falken tires



Interior:

Clifrord inteliguard 700 IQ Alarm (completely user programmable)

Kenwood eXcelon cd/cdr/mp3 player with 12” audiobahn flame Q woofer in custom corner box



Also included with the vehicle is a compaq laptop for tuning the computer, the cables to connect it and the apex twin chamber BOV.

The hood has a custom painted mitsubishi enblem on it.

All windows are tinted. Just recently replaces belts, plugs, wires and fluids. Also I just put 2 brand new front brake rotors on it.

People, we really need to give up on the guess-my-worth threads.

Without seeing and touching the car, they're pointless.

The worth always comes down to the decisions of the buyer and seller. Both leave the deal thinking they could have done better, regardless the outcome.

Dealers will cost more, because they're dealers. Sellers think aftermarket mods are worth more, because they paid for them.

If you have the car a year, 10% difference one way or another really didn't matter.

People, we really need to give up on the guess-my-worth threads.

Without seeing and touching the car, they're pointless.

The worth always comes down to the decisions of the buyer and seller. Both leave the deal thinking they could have done better, regardless the outcome.

Dealers will cost more, because they're dealers. Sellers think aftermarket mods are worth more, because they paid for them.

If you have the car a year, 10% difference one way or another really didn't matter.

Sounds good to me, now make it a rule or a sticky.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...d=1,1&item=4546105324&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT


its not too far from me and if the bid doesn get to high i might take a look at it, i was just wondering what you guys think it is worth.
thanks,
james

1500
be a good work on car...