need some help please read.

[charleso89]

Hi i bought a 1997 gsx. it has a 6 bolt swap, and a big 16 g. it has dsm link but didnt come with software i tried downloading it but it wont connect to the ecu. When i drive just crusing around it will start to cut in and out, and cut verry viliantly. the gauges will flicker loose all boost on the aftermarket boost gauge and on the boost gauge in the instermant cluster. the afr drops. But that bounces around a little while driving. At first it blew a little white smoke. Then at wot would blow a light blue smoke. Going to check shaft play, but it builds boost just fine. It feels and smells a little rich also. But with out being able to use ecm link dont know what to do. Any ideas? im in omak wa

 

[WestCoastDSM]

If you're not experienced with the tuning devices installed in your new car, I would encourage you to find a local shop to help you. Being that you are in the Seattle area, you have a couple of good options. There is Forward Motion(Tacoma), PINA Motorsports or BOSS Innovations. Each one has plenty of DSM experience and should be able to sort you out.
Good Luck.

 

[megsxawd]

it has dsm link but didnt come with software i tried downloading it but it wont connect to the ecu.

Do you have the original DSMLink OBDII adapter? It's required for laptop-to-ECU connection. You'll also need to complete the UPGRADE/TRANSFER INFORMATION for support and access to the forum. If you haven't already reviewed the "connection problem" page on ECM link, you can do so here:connectionproblem [ECMTuning - wiki]

Does the check engine indicator illuminate at any time?

HTH,
megsxawd

 

[charleso89]

No, no codes or lights pop up when it happenes. And yes it did come with a cable. I have tried the help page before for the connections. I will double check of course. I actualy live in eastern washington im from seattle. But live in omak wa kind of inbetween wenatchee and spokane. So there are no tunning shops by me and id have to tow it to one. I have been reading up on, maf over run, the wires to the maf, and fuel cut for options but think im going to have to brake down and tow it to a shop. because it has a recent re build and dont want to blow the engine

 

[91tsitalon55]

Severe boost leak?

 

[Colt4G63 also]

When i drive just crusing around it will start to cut in and out, and cut verry viliantly. the gauges will flicker loose all boost on the aftermarket boost gauge and on the boost gauge in the instermant cluster.

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See all those positive battery cables that are shorting out on the metal chassis?

 

[charleso89]

I am thinking maybe boost leak or blown turbo. But it builds boost but it all did start after a puff or white smoke. My girl friend who was fallowing me up the pass said it blew some white smoke before the first big problem started. it happens more when it is warm then cold. But still smells rich. And no i dont see any shorts. There is a pin the pops up for the hood to push down when closed thats hooked up to the positive. The guy i bought it from didnt have a lot of info on it. It was how he got it and said it drove fine and was his daily. But no every one is honsest out there. To top it off it may have went down hill when a dealership had it for like a month when i was going to get a suv.

 

[charleso89]

Started it up last night, after it sitting this winter out because of the problems. It had a rattle at first that sounded like it came from the turbo. after i moved it to where i could work on it. I turned it off, let it sit for a minuite and then started it again but the rattle wasnt there. Today i plan on pulling the tubing and checking the turbo for shaft play. When started it still did run rough, and seem to sputter a little bit.

 

[charleso89]

I am double checking before i pull and switch. But i was wondering if the eclipse is tuned to the small 16g it has now. And if i switched it to the 14b how bad would it be to run it like that. I assume it would send to much fuel to the engine and it just wouldnt run right. But i do not have another small 16g and really can't afford a new one. Still trying to get the ecm link to connect so then i could re tune it but no luck yet. Still trouble shooting.

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See all those positive battery cables that are shorting out on the metal chassis?[/QUOTE
I will take a different picture but from what i can tell the only thing grounded to the metal chasis is from the negative terminal

 

[Fullthrottle7]

Your turbo selection doesn't change what your computer does with things. It sees airflow of a certain amount and injects what it "assumes" is the correct amount of fuel to appropriately create an explosion that will net the desired A/F ratio. <b> If you are telling us that your A/F ratio goes all over, but you are talking about a narrowband A/F gauge, that really doesn't tell us anything!</b> A bad o2 sensor could potentially be spitting out all kinds of misinformation to begin with, and on top of that, a narrowband A/F gauge is not an accurate measurement of your exhaust, just a guesstimate based on the stock o2 sensor.

All of the tables and logic the ECU uses in stock form are pretty good, albeit a little rich, for a t25, 14b, 16g, and other smaller turbos. If you have larger injectors, much bigger turbo, big fuel pump, different sensor types, or other changes from stock, then your DSMlink settings will need to be updated to reflect those changes. The symptoms you are talking about sure seem like a half assed electrical system to me and your ECU system is not going to be able to accurately do anything without the proper feedback and without adequte electricity to run. If I was in your shoes I would take the alternator to get tested at a parts store, look again at your battery terminals and follow the paths of the wiring to make sure that nothing is loose, unhooked, or rubbed through and getting grounded. Your picture sure seems to clearly show your positive terminal contacting the shock tower which is indeed a grounded out senario.

Maybe you could take some updated closer pics of the area surrounding your battery and engine bay in general for us to look at to help troubleshoot. When you say that you can't connect to your ECU dsmlink program, what do you mean? Do you have the software installed and the cable plugged in to your car and laptop and see errors? Or can you simply not figure out how the connections need to be made to plug in to the PC?

I know shops are expensive at times, but most around here that were mentioned are very friendly and will help you by far more than we can by guessing based on the information you are giving. Omak is deep from Seattle I know, but you may just be best trailering the car over here and letting someone fix you up. Dont want to completely ruin your investment by continuing to drive with potentially messed up settings.... Good luck!

 

[charleso89]

Your turbo selection doesn't change what your computer does with things. It sees airflow of a certain amount and injects what it "assumes" is the correct amount of fuel to appropriately create an explosion that will net the desired A/F ratio. <b> If you are telling us that your A/F ratio goes all over, but you are talking about a narrowband A/F gauge, that really doesn't tell us anything!</b> A bad o2 sensor could potentially be spitting out all kinds of misinformation to begin with, and on top of that, a narrowband A/F gauge is not an accurate measurement of your exhaust, just a guesstimate based on the stock o2 sensor.

All of the tables and logic the ECU uses in stock form are pretty good, albeit a little rich, for a t25, 14b, 16g, and other smaller turbos. If you have larger injectors, much bigger turbo, big fuel pump, different sensor types, or other changes from stock, then your DSMlink settings will need to be updated to reflect those changes. The symptoms you are talking about sure seem like a half assed electrical system to me and your ECU system is not going to be able to accurately do anything without the proper feedback and without adequte electricity to run. If I was in your shoes I would take the alternator to get tested at a parts store, look again at your battery terminals and follow the paths of the wiring to make sure that nothing is loose, unhooked, or rubbed through and getting grounded. Your picture sure seems to clearly show your positive terminal contacting the shock tower which is indeed a grounded out senario.

Maybe you could take some updated closer pics of the area surrounding your battery and engine bay in general for us to look at to help troubleshoot. When you say that you can't connect to your ECU dsmlink program, what do you mean? Do you have the software installed and the cable plugged in to your car and laptop and see errors? Or can you simply not figure out how the connections need to be made to plug in to the PC?

I know shops are expensive at times, but most around here that were mentioned are very friendly and will help you by far more than we can by guessing based on the information you are giving. Omak is deep from Seattle I know, but you may just be best trailering the car over here and letting someone fix you up. Dont want to completely ruin your investment by continuing to drive with potentially messed up settings.... Good luck!

I will take another picture of the engine bay. It is a wide band a/f ratio. And no i was having troubles with my computer even finding it. But i have contacted ecm link and will be trying a few options. I also agree which is why it has been sitting for a while. Now its up at my dads garage so i can actualy work on it.

 

[charleso89]

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Ok sorry for the delay. Have been getting ready for my little girl to be born. So here are some closer pictures of the battery and the connections. I also am in process of pulling the 16g and putting the 14b there while it get sent off. I am going to get another or fix the pig tail for the what looks like the vacum sensor. I will be replacing the o2 sensor with a newer one. And may possibly be adding a o2 dump i have laying around. I also tested the alternator and it checked out.

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. I also am going to get a bracket for below the fuse box in engine bay, as well as maybe a smaller radiator overflow bottle.Since my maf cables are pretty messed up from them squishing it.

 

[charleso89]

Also my fan for the heater and a/c doesnt turn on unless its on high. Knob isnt stripped, or anything any ideas on how to fix, before i actually pull the dash for no reason