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1G bump steer

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lowell

15+ Year Contributor
320
21
Apr 6, 2006
vancouver, BC, Canada
Direct bolt on to the stock tie rods and I used tapered pins so no drilling of the steering arm. Rod end is a 3/4" instead of the typical 5/8. Overkill but should last a long time with a Seals-it dust boot on top.

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Can you elaborate on two things?

1. How did you mate the 3/4 rode end to the 14x1.5 mm tie rod? My plan is plug a female rod end and drill/tap to match the tie rod.

2. Is the tapered pin a custom piece? It would be nice to not drill the arm.
 
Can you elaborate on two things?

1. How did you mate the 3/4 rode end to the 14x1.5 mm tie rod? My plan is plug a female rod end and drill/tap to match the tie rod.

2. Is the tapered pin a custom piece? It would be nice to not drill the arm.

I used a male rod end cut down to minimum length and red loctited/jam nutted into a custom thread adapter.

The pins are custom machined out of 4340.
 
I'm thinking about going the same route but I have one concern. Is there any risk that is being introduced by placing the pivot a distance away from the steering knuckle like this? With the forces induced during cornering I'm wondering if the steering arm on the knuckle having a potential failure mode.
 
FWIW, Maximum Motorsports sells a kit similar to this ( though not made of 4340) for mustangs. They tested the kit to failure, and found that the steering arm bent before the 5/8 bolt did. The key is using bushings to support the bolt. Without the bushings the bolt bent way before the spindle. This is from memory, but you can find the specifics over at corner-carvers.com

Bumpsteer kit, 1979-93 Mustang, bolt-through style [MMTR-1] : Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader!
 
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