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Kill Switch Mount Pictures

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knochgoon24

DSM Wiseman
6,135
97
Jan 29, 2008
Troy, Michigan
Lets see some kill switch pictures. You can include some pictures of your battery relocation (if you're done it) if you want. I'm trying to get some ideas for mount locations.

Try and include
Where have you mounted yours
What brand/part number
What you race (NHRA, SCCA, etc.)
Whether you DD your car or not

Thanks.
 
102019d1256586013-my-fuse-box-relocation-project-log-1-large-.jpg


Where have you mounted yours -- Rear bumper, right of license plate
What brand/part number -- JEGS 300A kill switch, 10307
What you race (NHRA, SCCA, etc.) -- Haven't raced yet, plan to try it all
Whether you DD your car or not -- No

The handle from the switch is easily removed by unfastening a screw. Without the handle on, the switch can't be turned by hand; it's just too tough. So I don't foresee any issues of people messing with the switch without the handle on, unless they happen to carry around pliers with them. Also, I can't describe how much of a convenience it is to have a kill switch. No more unbolting the negative battery terminal while working on the car - simply flip a switch! I use it all the time (running ECMLink v3 btw). I really wanted to make the switch more hidden but just couldn't find an elegant way of doing so while making absolutely sure the car would pass tech anywhere and retaining all of the trunk plastic panels. But the clear annodized billet faceplate I got for the switch makes it blend really well with my paint, so I don't mind too much.


Info and pictures of battery relocation:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152022910-post471.html
 
It's just sandwiched on the rear bumper. I'll tell you though, that switch is heavy and I was concerned the thin bumper wouldn't be able to handle the weight. It mounted up fine though and the weight isn't an issue. Also, it's a big switch so mounting the cables on the back took some effort because of how tight it all is. Here are some more pictures, hope they help.

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Awesome, looks good. I was also concerned with the stability of mine (same style as yours) and was trying to figure out a brilliant way to mount it, but came up with nothing. :p I think I'll just do what you did though, looks good, and easy.
 
I was thinking of something like that. I guess any general kill switch would work. Especially if the switch is removeable. :D Though I'd hide it behind the License plate to be sneaky.
 
I was thinking of something like that. I guess any general kill switch would work. Especially if the switch is removeable. :D Though I'd hide it behind the License plate to be sneaky.

I was thinking of doing the same, but to do that, you'd need a switch that mounted nearly flush when the handle was removed.
 
I was thinking of doing the same, but to do that, you'd need a switch that mounted nearly flush when the handle was removed.

I could think of 2 ways.

Personally I was thinking of taking a license plate holder and use a door hinge on the top, and a lock on the bottom. Foam pads on the outer edge would provide sound deadening and seal out water. And the hinge would push it out far enough for the switch face plate to clear it with the switch removed. The lock wold have to be part of the plate to make it look normal.

Other idea would be making the plate so it could slide to the side to reveal it.
 
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I have one mounted on the passenger shock tower. This is a track car, not a DD. You'll have to check the regulations for the organization you'll be running with however, as some require it be accessible from the outside of the car. Mounting it under the hood, however, might work better for a DD.
 

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I could think of 2 ways.

Personally I was thinking of taking a license plate holder and use a door hinge on the top, and a lock on the bottom. Foam pads on the outer edge would provide sound deadening and seal out water. And the hinge would push it out far enough for the switch face plate to clear it with the switch removed. The lock wold have to be part of the plate to make it look normal.

Other idea would be making the plate so it could slide to the side to reveal it.

My plan was to have it so the license plate just hung over it. All I'd have to do is take the screws out to reveal the kill switch. You don't need the license plate on at the races. Then all you'd have to do is bolt on the handle.

I'm just not sure what's all behind the license plate that may be in the road. I haven't looked.
 
It would mount flush behind the license plate. Even if I had to space the plate out 1/2" it wouldn't be too bad.

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Similar to this, but behind the Talon license plate location, and mounted on the same plane as the hole.
 
If you're installing it to use in a sanctioned racing group, keep in mind they might have visibility and accessibility requirements that might not be listed. I know if I was trying to shut off a switch mounted like that at an autox or road course event, it might take me a bit longer to figure out how to turn it off. If you were to do something like that, a push/pull would probably be better, but you'd probably run into fitment issues with that.
 
That would work better with a pull strap or something. I was thinking of flush with the bumper and the handle being removable. It wouldn't be in during daily driving, but I could unlock the plate, turn it when I want to park it for the night, and be done. But if I went to a track, I would leave the handle in so they can shut the car off.
 
I'm not looking to recess it though. I'd mount it at the same level as the license plate. I don't see how that one above is legal to run at different events.

I guess my problem is finding or mounting the switch so the shaft on it with the handle removed either doesn't stick out, or sticks out less than half an inch.

Imagine Eric's, but mounted behind the license plate instead. I'd have to remove the license plate to install the handle.

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It would end up right about there. I could either recess the switch inside a hole (like the diameter of that on-off plate) behind the license plate, or use some spacers to space license plate away from the black plastic if the clearance isn't too bad.

I'm just not a fan of the look of kill switches. It's a little too attention grabbing for me.
 

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Made a custom mounting bracket to fit below reverse light, then cut a peice of carbon fiber to make a cover. Turned out pretty good. Don't remember part number but I got it from Jegs(I think it might be their own brand). I used to street drive my car like this before I made it a track only car, but it was never daily driven with this setup.
 

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Got Grip's car (push/pull through reverse light)

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Here's mine. Did it today.

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I'm surprised with the locations of so many people's kill switch in the Road Course forum. I was a dumb and cut a hole in my rear bumper to mount my switch. I guess now I know.
 
I'm surprised with the locations of so many people's kill switch in the Road Course forum. I was a dumb and cut a hole in my rear bumper to mount my switch. I guess now I know.

Why do you say that? I spoke to NASA reps about this and they said the rear bumper is fine as long as it is visible and easily accessible, although within the driver's reach would be preferred (i.e. mounted on a roll cage near the driver's window).
 
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