HPDE - Seeking advice and foresight

[asian312]

Well the bug bit late last year, but I'm just now getting to fullfil that new year's resolution of getting my butt on the track. So as the weekend rolls up I'm seeking any advice from new and old on preparing for the event. Thus far I've done the tech on the car and scoured the internet from DSMtuners to NASA's writeups. I've got a small checklist that I've started on what to bring but curious if there are any other track secrets I should keep an eye out for. Also any insight on things I can expect or any assumptions that I need to leave at the door would be super. Oh I didn't forget the friend! I'm dragging my brother and his Miata out to play.

Checklist:

Personal: canopy, cooler, lawnchairs, a change of clothes, suntan lotion, drinks, camera

Car: glass cleaner, wax, quart of oil, rags, white shoe polish (applicator bottle type), battery operated air compressor, a tire gauge, blocks of wood to act as wheel stops, a tarp to put all the stuff you took out on

DSM toolbox: 10, 12, 14, 17 sockets, 3/8 wrachet, extension, 10, 12, 14, 17 spanners, spark plug gap tool

 

[Greg Collier]

Congratulations on your decision. Where is the event you’re attending? You might want to bring some masking tape for your car numbers (they might not except shoe polish on the windows). As far as “the drinks”, two of us will usually go through 40 or more bottles of water in a two-day weekend. Soft drinks and or Gatorade may dehydrate you, so having plenty of H2o on hand is a must.

Bring an extra anti-freeze if you’re concerned about overheating, as HPDE is allowed to run anti-freeze on the track. Because you'll be running consistently higher RPM's, you might want to bring an extra alternator and or AC belt. It's rare but it's happened. I always keep a spare.

Leave all your assumptions at home. If this is you first HPDE 1 event you’re gonna have an absolute blast. You’ll have a driving instructor with you in the car to put all your fears at ease, and you’ll learn more about driving your car in the first day then you have your entire life. You go at your own pace without someone pushing you to do things you don’t feel comfortable doing. You’ll also discover the potential of you car and your own abilities.

By the end of the weekend you’ll be kicking yourself in the ass for not having done this sooner. Then you’ll also be counting the seconds until your next event!

Enjoy…

 

[asian312]

The event in is College Station, Texas at Texas World Speedway. Thanks for the tip on the belts. I think I may actually have a look and replace them as its also coming time for my timing belt change. I've already spent the past weekend ensuring no leaks and replacing two tires (ended up being 4 due to AWD) trying to minimize any possible calamities. I wish i would have jumpped on the one earlier this year when it wasn't in the heat, but better late than never

I'm excited as there are a number of other racing classes scheduled over the weekend.

 

[Greg Collier]

I'm racing at Willow Springs International Raceway that is located next to the Mojave desert this weekend. It's been 115 to 120 degrees for the past couple of weeks. I know Texas has been having your fair share of heat too so the keeping hydrated is real important! It sounds like you have all the important aspects dialed in, so now it's just a matter of having a good time and enjoying yourself...

 

[Slow old poop]

I've got a small checklist that I've started on what to bring but curious if there are any other track secrets I should keep an eye out for. Also any insight on things I can expect or any assumptions that I need to leave at the door would be super.

Here's a little something I put together a while back that you might find amusing. I used to give this to my students.

Tips for Taking Your Car on a Track

Here are a few things that will keep you out of trouble. This advisory is NOT meant to replace the advice of a professional instructor, nor will it show you how to drive your car. But it might help you understand what’s going on with your car, and what the instructor is telling you.

BRAKES
Your car has terrific brakes. They will haul your car down from 120+ mph to a dead stop in a very short distance. Alas, they can do that only one time. Then they fade. Therefore, you must pay attention to your brakes before you come to the track, while you are on the track, and while you are resting between on-track sessions. Take care of your brakes and you can run all day.

Pre-Race Preparation
Before you come to the track, install a new set of brake pads in the front, and make sure you have good pads in the rear. The front brakes do almost all the work, and you very likely will wear out a set of stock pads in ONE TRACK DAY. In fact, I have seen el-cheapo brakes fade after three corners (!) at Road America. Therefore, install a set of premium brake pads in front. One good all-around street/track pad is the Porterfield R4S. Here’s a checklist of what you should do to your brakes before coming to the track:

1. Install a new set of front pads. Bring the old pads along as spares.
2. Inspect the rear pads for wear, replace if necessary
3. Purge and replace the brake fluid with new fluid. Ford High Performance brake fluid is inexpensive and very good. Motul is the best.
4. Bleed the brakes all the way around, following the factory recommended procedure.

On-Track Braking
As noted, your brakes will stop the car, but they won’t do it often. Therefore, you must practice good brake management while on the track, or your brakes won’t last the day.

Keep this in mind: If you drive too hard, you will wear out your brakes prematurely. So, instead of trying to set new lap records with your basically stock car, concentrate on driving and braking so that your brakes will last all day or all weekend.

Your instructor will teach you the correct way to brake. What he or she will probably tell you to do is:

1. Apply the brakes FIRMLY for the shortest possible time. Get on, get off. Do not bounce the brakes off the ABS, and do not apply the brakes lightly. The problem is: If excessive heat builds up in the brakes, it cooks the fluid, bakes the pads, and warps the rotors. Therefore, a get on/get off technique applies the brakes quickly, yet minimizes the amount of heat build up. Your instructor can explain it in more detail.

Let me add further advice:

2. Do not apply the brakes at any speed over 100 mph. That seems to be the critical cutoff point for excessive wear. Yes, the car CAN stop from 120+, but you will use up your brakes doing it. It is far better to coast down to 100, and then apply the brakes. They will last much longer that way.

3. Brake Fade occurs when the pads heat up, and no longer stop the car. You can tell when fade happens because no matter how hard you hit the brakes, they will not stop the car. Cure: slow down and let the brakes cool off. They will recover quickly unless they are worn down to their backing plates. Note: If you experience fade, check your pad depth when the session is over. Fade is a very good indicator that your pads are worn down.

4. Boiled Fluid occurs when the brake fluid gets so hot it boils (well, the entrained water in the fluid boils, but the result is the same) and creates air bubbles in the fluid. When this happens, your brake pedal goes to the floor. Cure: Pump the brakes rapidly, and the pressure will return. You must bleed the brakes after the session to get the air out.

5. Do a Test Tap. When approaching your braking point, tap the brakes 100-200 yards before you get there, just to be sure the brakes are working.

6. Don’t downshift to slow the car. You should always be in the proper gear, but don’t use the gearbox to slow the car. Remember: $100 brake pads are much cheaper than a $3,500 transmission, and they do a much better job of stopping the car. Downshift while you are braking, but only to get into the correct gear.

6. Nothing fancy. Forget heel and toe, trail braking, and left foot braking until you have the experience and equipment for it. Instead, concentrate on braking properly:

• Brake in a straight line before the corner
• Complete all braking and downshifting BEFORE you turn in to the corner.
• Don’t brake in the middle of a corner, and don’t trail brake into it.

Braking in the Pits
When you get the checkered flag that ends the session, back off. From this point, until you reach your parking spot, you do not want to use your brakes at all. You want to cool them down as much as possible before parking the car. If the track gives you a “cool down lap,” use it to cool the brakes. If they want you to get off the track immediately, find an area in the paddock where you can drive around to cool the brakes. Five minutes of cruising around should do it.

Now, approach your parking slot slowly. DO NOT APPLY THE BRAKES TO STOP THE CAR. If you do, you’ll put a white-hot pad up against a red-hot rotor, and the two will mate there, create a hot spot, and warp the rotor. Instead, glide to a stop. If necessary, shut the motor off, release the clutch, and let it stop the car. After 10 minutes or so, roll the car forward a half turn of the wheel to put the pad over a different spot on the rotor.

If you experienced boiled fluid out on the track, you must bleed your brakes.
If your pads faded and did not recover, they are probably worn down to the metal, and must be replaced. We won’t cover those procedures here. However, here are some tips for working on your brakes:

1. Bring a set of work gloves. Those brakes get hot.

2. Check your pad depth before every session. A flashlight and dental mirror are ideal. Depending on your wheel style and the space between spokes, you may be able to do this without removing the wheel. Remember, the lower the pad depth, the faster the pads will wear. They can go from 1/8 in. depth to NOTHING in less than one 20 minute on-track session.

3. Check your rotor for cracks. If you see anything deeper than little spidery cracks, check with an experienced driver or your instructor. When rotors get too thin, they crack and break.

4. Do not overtorque your wheel nuts. It’s OK to see if they are loose, and tighten them up, but don’t go round the car with a torque wrench after every session, or you may twist them off. Only torque your lug nuts when everything is cold, or when you swap wheels. (Racer’s tip: Apply anti-seize to your wheel studs once a year, and you will eliminate most twisted studs).

TIRES
Watch your front tires carefully. Look for excessive wear on the outside shoulders. If you can see that the tires are wearing too much, you may want to swap them front to rear or side to side. If you have directional tires, you may be limited in what you can swap. But if you are not limited, try this:
First day after lunch: Swap front tires side to side
Second day, morning: Swap tires front to rear
Second day, after lunch: Swap front tires side to side


GOING OFF THE TRACK
When exploring the limits of your car’s brakes, tires, suspension, and so on, you may find yourself going off the track occasionally. What do you do?

We can’t cover every eventuality, but here are a few observations:

1. Don’t be afraid of the grass. At most courses, the grass is smooth, and you can use it for a runoff. It’s like driving on ice and snow out there so be careful, but in most cases there is nothing to hit.

2. Use the runoffs. That’s why they are there.

3. Don’t jerk the car around. If you put a wheel or two off the track, don’t try to jerk the car back onto the pavement. Get the car under control, straighten it all out, and ease it back up on the pavement. Just like driving on ice.

4. Both feet in. If you find yourself in an unrecoverable slide in the grass or on the track, put both feet in – that is, push in the clutch and stand on the brakes. Push in the clutch so if your car starts going backward, it won’t turn the engine in the wrong rotation. Slam on the brakes so that the tires no longer have any steering ability. In most cases, your car will continue in the direction you were going originally. Your instructor can explain in more detail, but it may prevent your car from suddenly leaping across the track.

TAKE CARE OF YOUR MECHANICALS
If your car is approaching 100,000 miles, you have several things to watch out for, because your car is getting to be “tired iron.”

1. Overheating: Older cars have a nasty habit of overheating, especially when running high boost for 20 minutes at a time. Novice drivers often brake way too much for turns, enter too slowly, shift down to 2nd gear, and then accelerate like a rocket ship toward the next turn. If you see your temp gauge heading for the red zone, alter your driving by avoiding 1st and 2nd gears at all cost. On almost all tracks, you can run the whole thing in 3rd and 4th gear, so stay out of 2nd. Besides, running a high gear teaches you the proper line quickly, because it teaches you to preserve your momentum. Your instructor will explain.

2. Spinning bearings: Older engines have been spinning bearings in record numbers. Be certain that you are running fresh oil, and that it is full. You might even want to stick in an extra half-pint.

3. Avoid knock. You may want to run at stock boost to preserve your engine, run race gas (100+ octane) to prevent knock, install a data logger to monitor knock, or all of the above.

ONE LAST THING
If this is your first or second time on a road course, PLEASE do not try to impress the instructor or the assembled multitudes with your driving ability. If you have stock brakes, street tires, and no experience, the only way you can really impress us is to be extremely smooth, receptive to instruction, and continue to improve all day. Only a tiny percent of us are born race drivers. Most work up to it. Speed comes with seat time, instruction, experience, and better equipment. You are just starting down that road.

As one instructor told me, “Nothing you can do will impress me. I’ve ridden with the best. You may be able to scare me, though.”

Try not to scare anybody. And – most important – have fun.

 

[Slow old poop]

The event in is College Station, Texas at Texas World Speedway.
I'm excited as there are a number of other racing classes scheduled over the weekend.

There is a very good possibility that one of the instructors will be Chuck Willis. Ask for him. He is very good, and knows all about AWD cars since he runs a 3000GT. He was my instructor once.

Rich

 

[asian312]

Wow!! Thank you for the insightful piece.

I've taken some of what you typed already in consideration, such as leaving the boost at stock levels (stock BOV will only let me have 10psi) and not installing the FMIC in the garage (worried about airflow to the radiator). Unfortunately my brakes will be the weakest link in my endeavor this weekend. I have little over 1/2 left on the pads, but ran out dinero prepping other areas of the car (sadly all maintenance ). They are however Semi-Metallic Metal Masters, so not your run of the mill O'Reilly special.

I'll keep an eye out for Chuck Willis.

I'm racing at Willow Springs International Raceway that is located next to the Mojave desert this weekend. It's been 115 to 120 degrees for the past couple of weeks. I know Texas has been having your fair share of heat too so the keeping hydrated is real important! It sounds like you have all the important aspects dialed in, so now it's just a matter of having a good time and enjoying yourself...

Good luck to ya Greg! Always look forward to your diaries.

 

[Greg Collier]

Hey that's great stuff Rich, good job!

I've got a "car only" checklist from the BMW club I go through prior to my races. I post it for all to see. We could make a permanent thread of pre-race checklist for everyone to go through prior to their track time...

 

[pnishr]

Hey, what weekend is this event? Is it the class by TDE? I know they do them at TWS and Tex. Motorsports ranch (Houston and Ft Worth) PM with a link or details if you can. Now that I got my baby back on the road, I've been wanting to get to a class.

Thanks.

 

[asian312]

Its this coming weekend, August 5 & 6. Here's the link to the event held by NASA:

http://www.nasatx.com/Registration.asp

This is HPDE which I believe is a NASA event. I've also seen Driver's Edge DE ( http://www.thedriversedge.net ) and Motorsports DE scheduled, but I believe those are different venues.

If you make it out just look for the white 2G. The name is Kevin.

 

[cioc]

Last year I finally got the nerve to convert my drag car to a road course car by upgrading cooling, brakes, suspensions, etc and had the time of my life. The only downside I found in the two track days that I participated in was that my instructors both raced rear wheel drive vehicles. They were very impressed with how forgiving the AWD system can be however I feel as though their instruction may be leaving me with some pitfalls as they do not understand the capability of AWD. Can anyone who has driven on a road course comment as to how early we can be on the throttle with the stock differentials and in general how to make the most use of AWD in this kind of racing environment?

 

[Slow old poop]

Can anyone who has driven on a road course comment as to how early we can be on the throttle with the stock differentials and in general how to make the most use of AWD in this kind of racing environment?

You can get on the throttle much earlier than a RWD car, which suffers from power oversteer. That is, when a high-hp Z06 or M3 gets on the gas too early, they lose traction on the rear tires, and get sideways or go off the track backwards.

That's why your RWD instructors are telling you to trail brake into the corner, transition gently, ease down on the gas until you reach the apex, and accelerate away from the apex toward corner out. That's the way they teach it, because it's the safe way with a novice driving a high-power RWD car (Slow in, fast out).

With an AWD car, you can get on the gas immediately after turn-in. Depending on the corner, of course, you can sometimes FLOOR the throttle immediately after turn-in, drive flat out through the apex, and upshift on the way toward corner out. (Fast in, fast out) You need to ride with an AWD instructor who will demonstrate the technique, because you won't believe how well it works until somebody shows you.

You can work up to it, though. Just take the line that the RWD instructor showed you, and get on the gas a little earlier than he wants you to. Forget that trail braking/gentle transition/ease on the gas nonsense, and get on the throttle. When you get more confident with how the car is handling, turn in at higher and higher speeds. You will be amazed at how much speed you can carry through a turn with an AWD car.

The next thing you will learn after you master the AWD Line, is that the really fast RWD and FWD cars are doing essentially the same thing, because the AWD Line is the Racing Line. It's just that you will learn it much faster in an AWD car than those RWD guys will. In fact, some of them never learn it, which is why your little DSM can eat up lots of amateur drivers in 911s and Z06es and M3s on HPDEs.


Rich

 

[cioc]

Rich,
Thanks for the information! I have just one question. You mention FLOORING the gas around some corners, at what point does this become hurtful. I've noticed around tighter corners that when I mash the throttle, the car pushes pretty bad which I'm told is due to the stock differentials. If this is the case, in tighter turns do you apply only half throttle?...quarter?...and are your tires yelling at you the entire way through the turn? I've found that my tires, Kumho Ecsta MX's, are quite the squeeler however my instructer told me that talking tires are happy tires. I always thought that was indication of scrubbing speed and thus not properly driving through the corner.

 

[Slow old poop]

Rich,
Thanks for the information! I have just one question. You mention FLOORING the gas around some corners, at what point does this become hurtful. I've noticed around tighter corners that when I mash the throttle, the car pushes pretty bad which I'm told is due to the stock differentials. If this is the case, in tighter turns do you apply only half throttle?...quarter?...and are your tires yelling at you the entire way through the turn? I've found that my tires, Kumho Ecsta MX's, are quite the squeeler however my instructer told me that talking tires are happy tires. I always thought that was indication of scrubbing speed and thus not properly driving through the corner.

Yes, on some corners I brake, turn in, and smash the throttle full open. Obviously, you can't do it on EVERY corner.

I've found that some tight corners often lead to another tight corner in the opposite direction -- such as a hard right followed by a hard left. In that case, you might want to try "straightlining" the corner; in other words, slash across the first right apex, bang the brakes and make the left. The more "classic" line is to make the right, let the car swing far out to the right, and then make the left. In straightlining, there essentially is no right turn -- you go straight to the left turn. Sometimes you can even slash across the left, too, thus straighlining two turns in a row. Look for opportunities like that.

I suspect that the reason the tires are squealing is that you are not quite on the line, and are steering too much. The correct line (except for double apexes) is to turn in with one quick movement of the wheel, and NOT HAVE TO CORRECT through the turn. In other words, turn the wheel and hold it in one place until it is time to unwind for corner out. If you find yourself constantly adjusting the wheel to position the car better, you didn't turn in properly, or you are not working the throttle properly.

Remember, with an AWD car, the AWD is a huge part of making the corner, so you have to work with it. It's a balancing act between the steering angle, throttle, and the AWD clawing its way through the turn. For example, if you make a high speed turn in, but DON'T get on the throttle to apply the AWD, you are very likely to plow right off the turn.

"Squealing tires are happy tires" is a favorite saying of instructors. They don't really believe that, and neither should you. But it is a cool thing to say. You are correct that a squealing tire is scrubbing off speed. When you find the correct line and turn in points, the squealing should diminish. (By the bye, I hope you are chalking your tires to check for rolling them onto the sidewalls. )

Take your time learning this stuff. Don't go out there and mash the throttle and expect the car to pull you around. It will, eventually, when you get everything right. But without an AWD instructor, you are on your own, and have to sneak up on it.

Rich

 

[underradar92]

Good to see you found this post Rich, I was thinking about PMing you on it. One thing that seems to help with the DSM/front end push is to get an aftermarket rear anti-roll (sway) bar. Then there are camber adjustments, spring rates, etc. that can tune under/oversteer in the chassis, but thats another thread.

 

[Slow old poop]

Good to see you found this post Rich, I was thinking about PMing you on it. One thing that seems to help with the DSM/front end push is to get an aftermarket rear anti-roll (sway) bar. Then there are camber adjustments, spring rates, etc. that can tune under/oversteer in the chassis, but thats another thread.

This thread is all about getting started. I am a FIRM believer in seat time, and think rookies and newbies should spend all available cash on:

1. Making the car safe and reliable. That means tires, brakes and maintenance, primarily. No engine or suspension mods unless things are wore out. For example, if the struts are shot, replace them with race parts. Fix the belts. Tighten bolts. Do an entire first season in a stock, reliable car. Then mod it.

2. Getting seat time and instruction. $400 for a weekend BMW or Porsche club event with an instructor is more beneficial than if it is spent on mods.

The first time an instructor passes you in an Avis rental four-door econbox, you'll understand the value of seat time. That is, you don't need mods to go fast.

Rich

 

[underradar92]

One thing that seems to help with the DSM/front end push is to get an aftermarket rear anti-roll (sway) bar. Then there are camber adjustments, spring rates, etc. that can tune under/oversteer in the chassis, but thats another thread.

Point taken. Forget the above part of the post.

 

[cioc]

Rich,
Thanks again for sharing your experience. I've been terrorizing highway entrance/exit ramps for years but my first track day had me second guessing my own experiences due to the opposing information I was receiving from my instructor. Well, I no longer abuse the local highways that much so I guess it's time to sign up for another HPDE and put this info to good use.

 

[Slow old poop]

Rich,
Thanks again for sharing your experience. I've been terrorizing highway entrance/exit ramps for years but my first track day had me second guessing my own experiences due to the opposing information I was receiving from my instructor. Well, I no longer abuse the local highways that much so I guess it's time to sign up for another HPDE and put this info to good use.

Au contraire, mon ami. Abusing public highways is how you practice what you learn on the track. Just kidding.

All seriousness aside, as Brother Dave used to say, you should practice proper braking, corner entry, apexing and finding the line at every opportunity on the street. You may find that late apexing that freeway exit ramp and getting on the gas sooner will result in a much faster ramp speed. Do it safely, of course, and not at racing speeds.

By the bye, I've bashed instructors a little here, mostly because they don't understand AWD cars, and therefore don't teach you the AWD line.

In spite of that, most instructors will teach you a whole bunch of very good stuff -- like finding the line, proper braking, proper seat position, hand position, smoothness, attitude, looking down track, breaking bad driving habits, and so on -- but most important, they will keep you out of trouble. They will not let you exceed your abilities and endanger you, your car, and your instructor. You cannot go wrong by following the "classic line" (slow in, fast out) taught by most instructors to rookies. It is, after all, a correct line, but it is not the "racing line."

If you follow their advice and then -- when they get out of the car -- start applying some of the things I've been talking about, such as getting on the power earlier and straightlining corners-- you will pick up the racing line faster than any other student.

If you go back to your old instructor later, and demonstrate that you've moved on, THEN he will teach you the racing line. It's not that they don't know how to teach it -- because they drive it themselves -- it's just that it's not something they want to teach to a rookie or intermediate driver. Show him that you've picked up the pace, and he will teach you the fast way around.

When you learn the racing line, it's like an epiphany -- or, like an alcoholic having a "moment of clarity." "Holy sh*t," you will say. "I never thought the car could stick like that!"

If you ever do find an instructor with whom you really communicate, follow him or her around from track to track. My two favorite instructors are Chuck Willis, down Texas way, and Jeff Lacina, in Topeka, KS. I can't wait to get them in the car again after a few years.

Jeff Lacina ([email protected]) runs a driving school, and is chief instructor for the SVT Cobra group. I've asked him to chime in here, and tell us a little about his school and offer advice for newbies. It was one of his instructors that gave me my epiphany.

As I said above, spending money on seat time and proper instruction will cut your lap times faster than any mods to the car.

I wish some of the "old hands" around here like Greg C would chime in with their advice. I have a somewhat warped view of driving, which started from my rally days, and I tend to drive a race car like a rally car. Maybe some of the "pure" racers have different views on all this. I'd especially like to hear opinions on my theory that the AWD line is the same as the Racing Line. I suspect, for example, that Greg and I drive exactly the same line, even though he runs FWD and I run AWD. Of course, being Sunday, they are probably all off getting track time.

Rich

 

[Greg Collier]

I wish some of the "old hands" around here like Greg C would chime in with their advice. I have a somewhat warped view of driving, which started from my rally days, and I tend to drive a race car like a rally car. Maybe some of the "pure" racers have different views on all this. I'd especially like to hear opinions on my theory that the AWD line is the same as the Racing Line. I suspect, for example, that Greg and I drive exactly the same line, even though he runs FWD and I run AWD. Of course, being Sunday, they are probably all off getting track time.

Rich

Yes... we were racing at Willow Springs International Raceway this weekend. Between the towing, dealing with issues with the car, actual racing, then towing home, I feel like that dead skunk in the middle of the road...

The race line, or the "right" and only line to achieve the best lap time, can only be accomplished if you're the only car on the track FWD-AWD-RWD. When you're among 40or so cars you're constantly going off line to pass (or stay alive). The rule of thumb is that the car in front of you has the right maintain "his line" and it's up to you to find the opportunity pass him. If your car is extremely faster then his car he should give you the courtesy to let you pass when it's safe to do so. If he's your competitor and you get your front wheels parallel to his driver’s door he should give you that turn or straightaway and let you pass. If he intentionally blocks you he runs the risk of being black-flagged and has to pull into the hot pits for a stop and go, and that would really screw him up.

The bottom line is "seat time" and discovering what you and your car are capable of doing. How do you find out what you're capable of doing? As your confidence builds you should be pushing more to the edge of what you think you can do. This usually ends up with you going off track and or spinning out from time to time. (I've personally got it down to a science.) I'm not telling you to go out and push your car to the limits and spin out, but as you become more aggressive it will happen.

My personal preference on turns is fast in, fast through, and fast out. There may be a little throttle and steering wheel feathering along the way to maintain some control, but hell, pushing to the very edge is what racing is all about. Brakes are for slowing and your accelerator and gears are for pushing or pulling you forward. Being in the correct gear at all times is extremely important. You don't want to downshift using your gears to slow you down through a corner. You want to brake to gain control of the car and then use your gears to push or pull you through the corner to the other side as quickly as you can. Again, as much seat time that you can get will dial you in to this basic concept.

As Rich has said, listen to your instructors and fully understand the geometry of the apex of a turn or turns and how your particular driving line will set you up for the upcoming part of the track. Don't be an idiot and over drive the car before you have the ability to control it. There's nothing worse then a fool slipping and sliding around a track endangering everyone else. But at the same time, every time you get some track time be a bit more aggressive to find out what your limits are at that particular moment of your experience. If you ever have the opportunity to get some skid pad experience this is very useful tool.

To me the most important thing is to feel confident and in control about what you're doing in a car. Don't mistake taking your car to the edge with feeling over confident. As you progress and find out what you and your car are capable of doing you won't fear doing it. What usually takes people out at a track are crappy tires or fading brakes. You're only as good as your equipment while your learning. There are things that I'm sure Rich and I can do with a car with a crappy setup, brakes, tires, etc. that might blow you away, but that's only because we have the experience and "seat time" to back us up...