Air bubbling out of gooseneck

[dohcGST]

well i changed out the head gasket with a cometic( 3 layer metal ), and got the head resurfaced, (did check to see if it was cracked)was told that if it got someone resurfaced it they would have seen it, put everything back on and torqued to 90... and then took it to a shop to get it timmed and, they started it up,a dn air bubbles were coming out of teh place where you fill the car up with antifreeze, alot of bubbles and the oil was a tiny bit milky, i really dont know what the f*** is going on right now........ extremly stressed, i need some hlep pleeeeeeeease

 

[mitsutuner]

Some bubbles will come out for a short when you drain & refill the coolant, but they should be mostly all out in 5 min or less. If the bubbles continue to come out, the head gasket is leaking.
Not 100% experienced/certain on this, but My neighbor tells me that the stiff metal gaskets are more likly to fail because they don't mold as easy to compensate for warpage or other imperfections in the mating surfaces.

 

[rebuilt65]

Since you say that your oil is milky white, I would say your head gasket or head have a problem. I used a stock style gasket, and ARP studs torqued to 90 ft lbs at 17 psi on pump gas without any problems.

 

[dohcGST]

i am going to torque them down more, i dont think it is sealing right

 

[mitsutuner]

I probably would do the same thing, even tho a small voice inside my head is saying that overtorqueing begets warpage & crackage. I think I would overtorque in small increments & retest after each time to see if there's any improvement. I'm curious & hopefull you can avoid taking it all apart again.

 

[eclpsegsx12]

i am running the cometic HP metal head gasket right now after blowing 2 stock ones within a couple months or so......no problems at all with it right now......its bubbling because the coolant system will have air pockets in it that need to be "burped" out....remove the cap, start it up and wait until the bubbling stops....

also, for the metal head gaskets, they should be torqued down and retorqued in stages.....after the head gasket is on, drive it for a little bit or so and then re-torque it, again do the same a third time if you want.......i know a few people that are torqueing head studs to 90-100 ft lbs!...it seems like a lot but it seems to be working great

 

[dohcGST]

i had it torqued at 90 but it didnt seem to seal good, so i am going to try 100 and then mabey 110 soooooo ya know, the shop has it now, if they crack it or warp it, is there anything i can do?>

 

[mitsutuner]

You should take along at least 1 dozen Krispy Kreme dougnuts every time you go to the shop to visit your car & thank them for helping you even if you don't mean it. If they crack it or warp your head, you could molotov cocktail the shop, but then you might need to abuse them sometime in the future for car repair.
You might be able to find a car for sale like yours that needs a tranny & take out the motor or put your good tranny in that one.
Easiest & cheapest thing to do is dig deep in your pocket, buy new parts, rebuild your toy & then laugh every time it occurs to you that your mitsu is a bottomless money pit that's a total blast to drive when everything works right.