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EGR block question?

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BOBS90TURBO

20+ Year Contributor
581
5
Sep 18, 2002
Tulsa, Oklahoma
I blocked my egr valve hopeing it would fix my high idle surge(it did not), do I need to remove the vaccum lines and egr canister, is it ok to leave all the lines hooked up when the valve has been blocked? I looked in the vfaq and it did not say.
 
This should be fairly easy. On the throttle body, the sensor that comes down on the top, that is one wire, is the idle sensor. They go bad. Take it off while the car is running, it should just pull off with ease. If the car goes either higher or lower in the RPM, it doesn't matter, if it keeps a steady RPM, then you have your answer. These do go bad all the time, everyone will replace thiers, or just cheat by taking it off, and idling the car down, (bad idea). Just take the time and not so much money on replacing it if it is bad. If your car still idles up and down when it is off, then you have other problems.
 
I do not understand what you mean do not disable the egr, I thought it was only to route the unburned gasses back through the intake, I thought most people blocked theirs, do you mean it is ok to have it blocked but to leave the hoses(vac lines) etc.... Please explain, Thanks
I am not questioning you, I am just curious if I should remove my EGR block plate I installed.
 
On the throttle body, the sensor that comes down on the top, that is one wire, is the idle sensor. They go bad. Take it off while the car is running, it should just pull off with ease.

gsx_tuner, I happened to read this post. Do you mean the connector with the rubber boot? The one on top? I disconnected it and my idle smoothed out... So this sensor is probably bad? So I need to replace that. Idle Position Switch i believe is the part?
 
Originally posted by joeym4130
gsx_tuner, I happened to read this post. Do you mean the connector with the rubber boot? The one on top? I disconnected it and my idle smoothed out... So this sensor is probably bad? So I need to replace that. Idle Position Switch i believe is the part?

Yes, you need to replace that. You can for now, take it off, and idle the car down a little bit. When you are sitting at a redlight, your car won't rev up and down, and people think you are fronting on them. You should get a brand new one. Don't try and find one in a junk yard, cause they go bad with a lot of miles, and most DSM's have over 100k easy. I don't think it is terribly expensive. I think I have a few used ones, but hey, I don't know if you want a used one, I wouldn't buy one, but if you do want to try a used one, I should have some. IM me if you're interested. Actually, I pretty much have anything if anyone is looking for a stock part, just let me know. I have everything but alternator, and turbo. I would like to trade parts too, I need another turbo for my car, BADLY! :cry:
 
Will someone please tell me if I should disconnect the vacum lines and remove the egr canister that go to the egr valve. Should I take the lines off and plug them up or just leave them in place and hooked up, I have allready blocked the egr valve I just need to know what to do with the vac lines now.
 
I got rid of all my emissions hoses. The ones on the throttle body, I just re-routed a hose to each one, and sealed off the egr with a hose with a screw in it. All you need is the BOV going to the intake, and the fuel pressure one coming from the intake to the FPR. All that stuff on the firewall you can take out, and get rid of. It works for me!
 
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