replaced alternator, now more problems

[schwag9AWD]

The whole story is the car died and the battery/radiator light came on. I tested the alternator and it was only putting out 11.xx volts. I replaced the alternator today with one from AutoZone (65 amp) I hooked all the connections up checked the belts for tension, then put the neg. cable back on the battery(showed 11.6 V)

The car started right up the very first time, I get out to take a look and the power steering pulley and belt are not moving, but the alternator belt was. I go to shut the car off and it dies, but still has power (accesories, etc) So I look at the belts again, power steering belt has good tension and doesn't appear to be rubbing anything. The alternator belt is loose now, but the alternator itself has not moved. I tried to adjust the lower bolt to put more tension on the belt and my socket touched the outlet battery terminal on the alternator and caused a small spark.

The last owner had an AEM True-Power pulley on the old alternator so could this have stretched the belt, because it's slightly bigger than the factory one? Another weird thing is the Batt/Rad lights are still on
Any ideas? I want to finish it this weekend.

 

[1990CherryTSI]

Check all those. Happened to me, I touched a screwdriver to an interior light socket trying to pry out an old bulb, blew two fuses, car ran, but nothing interior worked. It could also be a relay, sparks lots of time mean blown fuses

 

[schwag9AWD]

I already checked the fuses in the engine bay (30A and 80A) I couldn't remove the 80A fuse by hand, but the connection on top wasn't broken. What is the best way to test the Alt. relay? Voltmeter?

Right now I'm more concered with getting tension on the PS and Alternator belts.....maybe the batt. and radiator lights will go off after the new alternator fully charges the battery once I start it again.

 

[NOSNUSE]

Try getting a factory size belt for it.

 

[schwag9AWD]

The new belt fixed it, but after I started it up I see coolant bubbling out of the manifold-O2 flange and went away after it warmed up. So I fixed one problem and another one starts right after. So far this winter 2nd and 3rd are harder to put in gear, the motor developed a ticking sound that I don't think is lifter tick with only 20,000 miles, and my clutch is slipping. I thought dsm's were supposed to run better in cold weather .