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Car Does not Start/Runs like Crap

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eyebrowski

20+ Year Contributor
302
6
Nov 9, 2002
Tewksbury, Massachusetts
A bolt recently fell into my T-Belt and damaged it, I replaced the belt (the engine did not go out of time) and have these problems...

1)This is not inherent to the T-Belt Change. After sitting for a couple days the car will not start, it cranks and cranks and after about 25 mins it begins to fire little by little. I can finally get it going after cleaning plugs and using a little starter fluid and lots of cranking. When it finally starts I have to flutter the gas to keep it running and it runs VERY rough at a low RPM until I can get it warmed up. *My fuel pressure drops almost immidiatley after I stop cranking the car. Thought it was the check valve on the fuel pump and put a brand new walbro 255 into it, problem persists. I am getting spark, fuel, and good fuel pressure while cranking. Where do I go from here?

2)After the T-Belt change the car runs very rough, at part throttle it is ok but as soon as I go WOT the car bogs, sputters, then continues to run terribley at any throttle position and RPM. I thought it was all fuel pump related but after swapping the pump nothing has changed...

Whats going on???
 
Originally posted by eyebrowski
...
*My fuel pressure drops almost immidiatley after I stop cranking the car. Thought it was the check valve on the fuel pump and put a brand new walbro 255 into it, problem persists. I am getting spark, fuel, and good fuel pressure while cranking. Where do I go from here?
...
I thought it was all fuel pump related but after swapping the pump nothing has changed...
Whats going on???

This could be several things from cam timing, spark plugs (& gap), relay(s) oil pressure sw, ECU, to pressure regulator.

You need to tell us what you do know so we can narrow it down otherwise you are going to have 50 different answers.
 
Originally posted by BUCK
Fuel filter or failed open FPR is my guess.

A quick way I use to check FPR was a pair of Vice-Grips on the return hose which would cause the pump bypass to open which prevents stall. I was hoping he had some known pressure numbers to give us besides telling us it's working but I guess not. People just don't realize how complex something like this can be and with some real data input we can narrow down the possibilities.

With the new pump installed it's conceivable it washed all all the crud settled in the bottom back up to the filter but only very rarely have I seen them prevent starts as he described.

I've not looked at the electrical circuit recently to know specifically if the start position is a direct wire to the pump and the run position depends on oil pressure or charging voltage to activate a relay which could have died.

Cheers,
GTM
 
FP is hitting around 45-48psi while cranking... the starting problems were going on before the FP install, i changed the FP becuase i thought the check valve in it was gone. But if the AFPR was failing would it allow fuel to drain back into the tank even witht he FP check valve?
 
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