HELP!!! Clutch not disengaging

[JNasty4G63]

Need help!! Couple days ago, my clutch master cylinder went out. Got that fixed, and put a new slave in while I was at it. Bled everything afterwards, and things were peachy, for about a day. Now, the clutch wont disengage. Everything was fine after the repairs and the car drove great. Then all of a sudden I go to drive it today, and the car will not go into gear when stopped if the car is running. If the car is in gear when I try to start it, it lurches and wont go. And, if I get driving, when I push the clutch to shift, the car just stays in gear and the RPMs don't drop at all. Just a mess. I tried to adjust the pedal, but that didn't help. Any suggestions as to what might cause this??? Need help, can't drive car like this, and need my car.

 

[Blueheat23]

i had a very similar problem after clutchwork done on my car, i was driving it home from the shop and shifting got noticeably worse till i coudlnt use the clutch to put it in gear. i had to powershift back to the shop (was that an adventure) and it turned out it was a loose bolt on the bellhousing....the work that was done was a...

New master

new slave

new stock clutch

so i mean this might not be your problem but i had the exact same symptoms that got progressively worse...

 

[ArticNemesis]

I would definately check the clutch pedal assembly, there is a small window with the adjustment screw (I'm talking less than a half of a turn) that moves between grinding gears, and sloppy clutch engagement. Sometimes, if you don't tighten the bolt enough, it like to loosen and the clutch pedal goes out of adjustment

Also, make sure that the slave cylinder is still nice and tight on the bell housing. It wouldn't hurt to try and bleed your clutch again, maybe you picked up a few air bubbles that you missed the first time.

Getting into more drastic measures if that doesn't work, check the clutch fork, maybe it has gotten bent *somehow?

How old is the clutch on the vehicle we are speaking of.?

 

[JNasty4G63]

The clutch is about 10k old. Its just a replacement stocker, nothing special. I don't baby the car, but its far from being abused. It still holds well. See, I've tried to adjust the pedal, and nothing helps. I've tried turning the rod little bits, and I've also tried turning it from one end to the other. And, nothing helps. The pedal itself feels fine, feels like there is good pressure, but its just not disengaging the clutch. I'm going to check the slave again tomorrow. I'm going to take it off and see that its getting set good. And, then I'll bleed again, real good. I bled the hell out of it yesterday thinking that it was just a big air bubble that was somewhere in there causing the probs, but nothing. Just to make sure I'm doing that right, this is what I've been doing.....

1 - Pump pedal couple times, then hold it to the floor
2 - Open the bleeder, release pressure
3 - Close the bleeder
4 - Pull pedal off the floor, then start step 1 again

Is that right??? Thats what I've been doing, and its been pushin good ammounts of fluid through, so I figured that was right. Let me know if that is right. Also, the what should I look for with the clutch fork?? Is there anything to look for that you can check without taking the trans apart?? Thats what the slave connected to and is moving, correct?? I'm very mechanically inclined, but I'm kinda new to working on my own clutch and what not, so let me know if I'm being a dumbass. Thanks again for the help.

 

[Morphius]

Quicker 1 person method of bleeding:

Find yourself a small can/jar. Fill it with about an inch of brake fluid. Attach a hose to the bleed screw on the slave. Stick the other end in the can with fluid. Open the bleed screw. Now you can get in your car and pump away. Don't forget to refill the master cylinder at various intervals to keep it full of fluid. Once you feel you have bled the air out, close the bleed screw. Done.

 

[ArticNemesis]

that won't work exactly.. You have to have some way to build pressure up to force the air towards the slave cylinder to get the air out. otherwise the air will just rise back up the lines. You would have to use a stick or something to jam between the seat and the pedal and open teh slave bleeder.

 

[Morphius]

Originally posted by ArticNemesis
that won't work exactly.. You have to have some way to build pressure up to force the air towards the slave cylinder to get the air out. otherwise the air will just rise back up the lines. You would have to use a stick or something to jam between the seat and the pedal and open teh slave bleeder.

You don't need pressure to force the air out. Ever heard of the product, Speed Bleeders? Same concept only the bleed valve is a check valve. It lets fluid/air out, but not back in.

What does my method do? Let's fluid out, and fluid back in (if it draws any). As you release the pedal your master cylinder draws from the reservior. But due to the vacuum, it can draw a slight amount of fluid back from the jar/can of fluid.

Try it.