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Anyone else ever have this problem ?

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WarpathDSM

20+ Year Contributor
321
1
Oct 27, 2002
For about every 50 miles I put on the car it snaps the bolts off in the bell housing . It's getting out of hand now and am looking for suggestions. Could it be a bad motor or tranny mount ?
 
Originally posted by WarpathDSM
For about every 50 miles I put on the car it snaps the bolts off in the bell housing . It's getting out of hand now and am looking for suggestions. Could it be a bad motor or tranny mount ?

Most bell housing to block matings will usually have 2 sleeved locator/index that bolts pass through. They prevent the bolts from taking the twisting load and keep everything in alignment.

My guess someone omitted at least one of them.

Cheers,
GTM
 
If all the dowels are in place to keep it lined up with the block, I will have to say it may be the bell housing is not flush. If it is not that, maybe the flywheel bolts backed themselves out. I really can't think of much more without seeing it, are there any noises or anything from the transmission?
 
Originally posted by 92redman
If all the dowels are in place to keep it lined up with the block, I will have to say it may be the bell housing is not flush. If it is not that, maybe the flywheel bolts backed themselves out....

You might be right, since this doesn't have a pilot bearing to cause them misalignment problems on assembly that would be less likely. However I have seen mechanics hang them off the bolts and use a impact wrench to draw them together. The locaters don't align and broach their way into the aluminum thus loosing the center. This makes all the bolts tight going in as they thread bind.

It's just been a long time since I've seen someone make the mistake of not drawing the mating faces up tight. The fact he mentioned it keeps breaking says he has had to go in there and fix it on more than one occasion and I'd hope he noticed any gap.

Cheers,
GTM
 
I get the bell housing seated tight against the block. If I catch it in time before the bolts break they have backed themselves out and I can spin them by hand or just pull them out. I put the car in 1st gear pulled the E-brake and slowly let out on the clutch and the motor pulled towards the firewall about 3 or 4 inches. it even backed the bolts out of the slave cylinder. I got some red lock tight and will see if that helps this week.
 
Originally posted by WarpathDSM
I get the bell housing seated tight against the block. If I catch it in time before the bolts break they have backed themselves out and I can spin them by hand or just pull them out. I put the car in 1st gear pulled the E-brake and slowly let out on the clutch and the motor pulled towards the firewall about 3 or 4 inches. it even backed the bolts out of the slave cylinder. I got some red lock tight and will see if that helps this week.

WOAH, slow down a moment so I can catch up. Are they fingertight because they are aligned OR because some are strippe, or too short. Use a #2 Phillips as a depth gauge to see how far you can screw the bolts in without bottoming. Might have to get something special or even use thread repair kits if the threads are ruined.

Yegads, 3-4 inches is screaming engine mounts to me. Put a jack and block of wood under that engine and unweight it. Pull the engine mounts one at a time and inspect, depending on design a decent screwdriver will allow you to tweak them around to expose cracks you can't see when they are installed.

You must check those sleeves are present even if it requires backing all the screws out 1/4" and spreading the joint. Using a flashlight in a darkened work area may let you see if they are there. It will do no good for anything to keep having this happen.

Cheers,
GTM
 
Well I found out there are no dowels on the mating surface. The only things there are 2 bolts on the top of the bell housing 1 down by the slave cylinder and the little one in the back that I have to drill out.other than alignment dowels do any bolts need a sleeve or anything like that or do they just bolt right up. This is for a 92 n/t 5spd
 
Originally posted by WarpathDSM
Well I found out there are no dowels on the mating surface. The only things there are 2 bolts on the top of the bell housing 1 down by the slave cylinder and the little one in the back that I have to drill out.other than alignment dowels do any bolts need a sleeve or anything like that or do they just bolt right up. This is for a 92 n/t 5spd

Usually they have one or the other, dowels or sleeves. If you have none then that would explain why things keep getting loose and breaking. You will have to find/buy these parts or make them. In a pinch you migh be able to cut a grade 5-7 bolt shank, possibly a bent valve stem would also work. Grind a slight champfer on each end if they are dowels and drive them in the block so about 3/8" protrudes. The sleeve would be too difficult to make from common materials.

That should solve your problems. Let us know how you make out.

Cheers,
GTM
 
Originally posted by Lico-solo 99GSX
Could he be having the same problem I have. I can not see how a bolt goes on the rear bellhousing. Please see picture.

Argh, you are supposed to notice what you take OUT. You might find it in a Micro-Fische parts listing, may be pictures showing torque values and bolt count.

Look inside the hole to see if something has scuffed it of recent. A lot of transmissions will have casting index holes drilled for the machine tools used in mfg. Others are for other applications so they will align with a different block. I may not be understanding the problem but if the hole is blind at one end and there are no threads then nothing can be used. Dowel pins are frequently in blind holes 3/8"-1/2" deep each side. Locator sleeves will have a bolt pass through them. Hope that helps.

Cheers,
GTM
 
Well, I took the motor apart more than 6 months ago and even took photos of everything and kept notes..... but I guess I did not think this was an issue.
I am assembling my GSX after having to get a new short block because of crank walk. I think there should be a bolt on the rear of the motor to the transmission.
Does anyone know if a bolt goes there or not? I can not find it in my factory manual.
Could it be that it should be inserted from the inside before installing the transfer and cover?
The hole has threads like the one on the other side and the same positioning dowel/tube.
Please see photo at the following post:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=751457#post751457

Lico Solo
 
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