Stalling when idleing while rolling.

[Turningturbo25]

Allright i haven;t driven the car around that much casue it been sitting in the garage pretending to get worked on, the few times i have driven it, it would stall when i idle while moving (around turns). I dunno what it is, i havent has the chanch to do much engine work or any at all, the turbo say 0 psi at the moment and the air filter is off, also when i have driven it the battery had been off of it awhile befor i start it up. any clues?

 

[Honda4Lunch]

My car does just started doing the same damn thing and it's driving me nuts. Usually happens after the car has been sitting, pull out in reverse and put it in drive and I have to quick let off the brake and get to the gas before it starts puttering on the verge of a stall. Then shortly afterwards if I'm pulling into a parking spot going relatively slow, the car sputters on the verge of a stall unless I rev the car slightly. Sometimes after making it into the parking spot, if I just sit there for a bit with the car in drive-foot on the brake...it'll stall out.

It never seems to happen after long drives(over 30 mins), but once the car sits for 3-4 hours, it'll start acting up again. I'm not exactly in the best spot to trouble shoot it right now as I am away from home in Oklahoma for some more training, but I have access to a garage with lift and I brought a bunch of my tools and voltmeter with me. I'm wondering if it has to do with a seal or something that would contract and leak if cold and then solve it's own problem once warmed up. It never happens while I drive, only when I'm almost at a stop and even then it's not every time.
RPM's and boost look normal til the car starts to stall...then obviously the vaccum goes from -15 towards 0 and the rpms drop from 700-800 range down to 550-600 and the car shutters and shakes. Any help would be appreciated.

Keep in mind the car is an automatic and a 97.

 

[boosting1G]

My 1G GSX did the very same thing. all i did was raise my idle to where it idles at 900-1000 prm and I crushed my BOV. Now the car runs just fine.

 

[Honda4Lunch]

I've played with the BISS screw but that seems to only affect the car idle while in Park. Did you adjust the throttle cable then? Anyone else?

 

[boosting1G]

thats what i did i adjusted my throtle cable to raise my base idle.

 

[Honda4Lunch]

I'm worried that re-adjusting the throttle cable is only a quick fix. Although it would probably fix the stalling issue I still think it would only be masking the real problem.

Do the throttle cables eventually need to be adjusted as time goes on with these cars anyway?

I don't mind adjusting the cable, I just don't want to ignore a potentially bigger problem if that's the case.

 

[PhoenixRPR]

I also would like a resolution for this problem. My engine turns off everytime I shift into neutral while moving. The weird thing is it idle's perfectly. The idle is beautiful at 750rpms in neutral, but if I try coasting in neutral then it will die.

 

[PhoenixRPR]

^bump^

 

[frontdriver]

If it's when you are turning the steering wheel remember to have the wire plugged in on the power steering pump on what looks like about a 5/32" stud.

There's also supposed to be a reed switch that I've read about on the back of the speedometer somewhere that senses when the car is moving and keeps the rpm's up.

First, though, I'd start with setting the BISS screw according to the procedure where you ground the diag. pin and the underhood plug on the firewall and then work up from there.

 

[Honda4Lunch]

I've now adjusted my idle screw and biss screw. The car is idling at 1700 RPM in Park, 1500 Neutral, and about 1000 in Drive and Reverse. The car was running good for a week or so, but the stalling seems to be coming back more and more everyday. The car shutters as if almost about to stall and then revs back up...but sometimes it'll shutter right to a stall. It seems to happen especially if I am turning into a parking spot(hence turning the wheel), but it also will happen if I just pull up to a light. I have two more days here, then I am driving back home 1200 mi and will probably take it in to the dealer if I can't get anymore help on this. Also can anyone verify what frontdriver said about a "reed" and could you also elaborate a bit on what I'm looking for on the steering pump. Thanks

Please don't make me take it to Satan!! Save me!!!

 

[PhoenixRPR]

My 1G was doing the same thing, and then it developed into idle surge. I suggest you check the coils on your Idle Speed Controller.

 

[frontdriver]

I suggest you do a search for "reed switch". That's how I found this thread.

"When the car is in motion... AND the speedometer is not at zero, a reed switch mounted in the speedo signals the ECU to increase the idle a bit. That's why the idle is higher when rolling. It is normal. As far as the idle surge goes - If the idle is above 1500rpms AND the throttle plate sensor switch is activated [your foot is not on the pedal], the ECU cuts off the fuel supply [to assist deceleration]. This makes the idle drop [of course]. Then the ECU says "okay, I'll let the fuel flow again", which increases the idle again, and if the rpms goes back above 1500, then the same sequence repeats---- and you get that famous sound --> rrRRRrrrRRRrrrrRRRrrrRRrrrr! What you need to troubleshoot is why your idle is too high to begin with. Many faults cause a fast idle. All of them are related to air flow. Defects could be an toasted idle speed motor, a crapped out cold idle valve, or a vacuum leak in a cracked hose or gasket..... or any other fault that is allowing air past the throttle plate. Start hunting around for hoses that look 'stiff' and cracked or disconnected. When the car gets to be a dozen years old the idle speed motor tends to become intermittent or fails completely. The quicky test is to turn on the A/C and watch the tach needle. If the ISM or ISC [or whatever the hell that motor is called] is functioning properly then the tach should take a quick dip and then return to the former value. Then turn the A/C off. Again the tach should pop up for a split second and then return to the previous rpms. This means that the motor is controlling the air properly [Its job is to keep a decent idle speed]. If your idle dips with the A/C on and does not come back up, then that motor is not working anymore."


The power steering pump has a fitting just under the fluid lines. Just to the left of the belt pulley if you're looking from the front of the car. It looks like about a 17mm thin nut with a 1/4" long x 5/32" dia stud coming out of it. There should be a wire attached to it. The wire has a 90* socket type connector, like a mini spark plug boot. This wire is usually clamped on to the left side of the pump with the bendy prongs. I believe this tells the ECU when the power steering pump is under load and increases rpm's.

 

[PhoenixRPR]

I've done a lot of troubleshooting and reading on the 1G idle path. First of all, the p/s pump should not affect the idle of the vehicle. I've driven the car with that wire disconnected and the car will run poorly and then it throws a "CEL" to remind you to plug it back in. The Idle Speed Controlelr (ISC) commonly goes bad on our vehicles and causes "idle surge", which you described. Your best place to start troubleshooting is there, by checking the coils according to spec. Also, according to the technical service manual, the idle should go up appx. 100 rpms with the a/c engaged. You (frontdriver) mentioned a cold idle valve. Could you please provide the specific name of that part that could be found in a manual?

 

[frontdriver]

Originally posted by PhoenixRPR
. First of all, the p/s pump should not affect the idle of the vehicle.

Oh, really?

"You (frontdriver) mentioned a cold idle valve. Could you please provide the specific name of that part that could be found in a manual?"

Actually, I did a search on this website for "reed switch" and this was a quote directly from search results. I have no idea what a cold idle valve is.

"I've driven the car with that wire disconnected and the car will run poorly and then it throws a "CEL" to remind you to plug it back in."

Just exactly which code does it throw when the CEL comes on? What did you say the purpose of this wire was?

 

[PhoenixRPR]

I'm referring to the wire that plugs into that very small nipple on the front (from hood looking in) side of the p/s pump. The nipple is located right below the power steering speed sensor switch (the one with the typical leaky o-ring). I never checked to see what code it throws, i just plugged the wire back in. It slipped off cause that speed sensor switch leaked fluid onto it, and into the alternator, causing the wire to come loose and causing my alternator to burn up. I think the wire has to do with the "power assist" feature of the pump, but that I can't be sure of.

 

[mostapasta]

Honda did you ever figure out what was wrong with your idle prob or what did the dealer say??

 

[PhoenixRPR]

Oh, really?

"You (frontdriver) mentioned a cold idle valve. Could you please provide the specific name of that part that could be found in a manual?"

Actually, I did a search on this website for "reed switch" and this was a quote directly from search results. I have no idea what a cold idle valve is.

"I've driven the car with that wire disconnected and the car will run poorly and then it throws a "CEL" to remind you to plug it back in."

Just exactly which code does it throw when the CEL comes on? What did you say the purpose of this wire was?

Actually, the p/s pump, like the power brakes, do play a small role in the idle of the vehicle. As you roll to a stop in neutral, the idle is above normal (around 1100) because the computer is designed to have a higher rpm, while rolling, to compensate for the use of power brakes and power steering.