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Radiator Clogged????

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L2RTSiAWD

Honorary Moderator
20+ Year Contributor
11,533
29
Apr 8, 2002
Chandler, Arizona
Ok after shutting the car off coolant comes out if the top of the lower radiator hose where it attaches to the T-stat housing. This only happens after the car is shut off, then it stops after the car has cooled a little.

I don't know the cause or the solution:cry:
 
Originally posted by Black95GSX
Sounds like your piston recoil springs are worn.

I knew it. It's probably because my bumper isn't painted.
 
Originally posted by L2RTSiAWD
Ok after shutting the car off coolant comes out if the top of the lower radiator hose where it attaches to the T-stat housing only happens after the car is shut off and the pressure is built up then is stops after the car has cooled a little.

-Couldn't understand your question, can you put some punctuations in it?
 
Originally posted by Defiant
You mean a leak at the hose? Throw away the stupid factory spring clamp, and put a real hose clamp on it. If that's what you mean.

It has a real hose clamp on it and I replaced it.
 
Originally posted by L2RTSiAWD
Ok after shutting the car off coolant comes out if the top of the lower radiator hose where it attaches to the T-stat housing. This only happens after the car is shut off, then it stops after the car has cooled a little.

-I think it's your coolant filling cap's seal isn't holding the pressure. How come your lower radiator hose goes to the T-stat housing? the top one should go to the T-stat housing, to lower one goes to the steel pipe which come out from the water pump.
 
New radiator cap.

On a 2G the upper hose goes to the waterneck and the lower house connects to part of the T-stat housing.
 
Originally posted by L2RTSiAWD
Ok after shutting the car off coolant comes out if the top of the lower radiator hose where it attaches to the T-stat housing. This only happens after the car is shut off, then it stops after the car has cooled a little.

I don't know the cause or the solution:cry:

This is perplexing, first I'd pull the offending hose off and go over the fitting with a 6" wire brush which looks like a tooth brush for aligators. Get a stainless steel with a wood handle for they don't rust or slip in your hand with antifreeze.

If it's an aluminum fitting you may have to poke at the chunks with a screwdriver to break these off and repeat your brushing.

Check the hose, I've seen many a mechanic install one with a screwdriver to pry it into place and end up poking a hole. If you have enough you can slide it further on and double clamp.

Do check the radiator cap to see if the spring is working so the overflow goes into the bottle and not build up so much pressure somethin has to give.

And last but not least the punch line, this could be early signs of a blown head gasket. As the engine slows down to a stop the compression pressures are held a lot longer which will force these gases into the cooling system faster than the overflow can handle the water for a short period you could have 30 lbs in the cooling system... again something has to give and this fitting could be the weak link. Other than those listed I can't imagine anything else, you are going to have to do the grunt work and buy any new parts if something is questionable.

As a last resort you can do a "block check" which passes the gasses in the radiator through a fluid which changes from blue to urin yellow if combustion gasses are present. It's not something every shop has so make sure they can perform this test rather than guessing at it. Usually the test can be performed in about 5 min, don't get a snow job. Ask to watch so you can see the results, for it's possible to stick the tool near the exhaust and bingo it's instant yellow. You are not complaining it only takes 5 min to perform the test ... that's the fee they charge. If it goes from the dark blue to a light blue or even a light yellow you might get away with just retorquing the head bolts and see if that solves the problem, otherwise start saving your bucks.

Cheers,
GTM

Cheers,
GTM
 
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