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ignition/timing problem?

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spammy123

15+ Year Contributor
70
0
Jan 26, 2008
stow, Ohio
ok well ive been fiddling with my laser for a good 2 months off and on now trying to figure out whats wrong with it. it started one day when i was out running it, it started to bog out on acceleration when almost as if an I/C pipe fell off or a spark wire went bad or something of the sort. well since then i have changed a coil pack that was cracked, changed ignition wires, changed plugs and changed the fuel filter. when i try to start it it is almost impossible it tries to stall every time i have to keep revving it to keep the engine running at idle. the wierd thing is, is that if i keep revving it for a few minutes the bogging goes away when i rev, and tghe car drives just fine untill i hit about 10 psi and then it starts spittin and sputterin like i have a boost leak. ive tested the plugs/wires/coil pack. i did a boost leak test and came up with nothing.i put 550cc injectors on it and the bogging at idle went away almost immediately but it still spit when trying to boost. but now even with the 550cc it bogs at idle. the belts make a very loud screeching noise when i rev in idle but it goes away after a while. there are soo many things that i think could cause it but i have no clue. yesterday while the car was running it made a loud clicking noise coming from inside my cam cover as if something was rattling around but today it stopped. im really lost and would appreciate any input on what to check for next before i take it to a shop and lose an arm and leg for repairs.
 
Hmm this is very odd.
I can only offer the little information I have.
The squeaking in the beginning is most likely your belts. Just replace them and that should go away.

Check if your BISS screw came out. Or maybe you need to adjust it.
Also it could be a faulty ISC, but these problems sound a bit different then both of those.
I hope other people have more info, this sounds frustrating.

Maybe a fuel cut?
 
i use ngk bpr7es becuz i have a 16g they are gapped to .028. it is very frustrating, i will check both of those so thank you for that. as far as maybe a fuel cut? im not sure, the thing that bugs me tho is that when i put the stock injectors back on there was hardly any fuel dripping out of my fuel rail. but then other times i swapped the injectors there was fuel. i dont know if maybe theres a short somewhere in my fuel pump wiring or something of the such maybe sometimes it doesnt pump enough fuel i dont know, maybe someone else has some info.
 
well i just wen tout and looked around by the ISC and i think i may have struck gold on finding out the problem. there is a seperate blue wire that comes off the same wiring harness as the plug that goes into the ISC. this wire clearly snapped off of what i think is the actual adjusting screw for the idle. i took pictures but lost my usb cable to load them. if anyone knows what im talking about and has a picture thatd be great.
 
DSM THrottle Bodys in the first big picture right below the six little ones at the top of the page i need the gold colored part to the left of the butterfly on the throttle body, it has a little metal connection stickcing out the top of it. if anyone knows where i could get one of those that would be very helpful
 
It seems to me that you're referring to the closed throttle switch. Maybe it has other names. They always do. It's an on-off swich that tells the ECU that the throttle is closed. That's all it does. It's not the throttle position sensor. You should be able to solder on a new connection if the wires busted. If the terminal is busted off the switch, it should be no more than a $5 junk-yard part
 
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