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cant above 7psi BLT was good

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anioconn

Probationary Member
5
0
Aug 15, 2008
bel air, Maryland
it recently started losing boost it climes smooth till it hits 7 psi and just stops building ....i can continue climbing through the RPM's just as smooth as ever just stays at 7 psi. it still runs perfect. i had my waste gate actuator pop off one time ### the cotter pin broke and it wouldn't go over 4 psi and that what this feels like only with a little more boost. iv done my homework on here and learned about the BLT did everything as directed and found a broken hose to my BOV fixed that and now no leaks but still only 7 psi.... it was litteraly an over night change. i have even taken the waste gate actuator off and used wire to hong the (i guess you would call it ) hinge or gate umm thingy LOL sorry i dont know what its called. but i tied it back with wire to make sure it was closed all the way. all this and still only 7psi . it had been sitting for nearly a year be for i stared driving it again i changed all the fluids and plugs be for i started it back up including fuel and it has been boosting fine for the last month now im at a loose as to what to try next if it is a boost leak it would have to be a very small one for me to have missed would a leak that small cause that much loss? any help would be great . thanks
 
Are you using the stock boost gauge or an aftermarket boost gauge to tell if you are only pushing out 7lbs of boost? Those stock gauges are only every ballpark figures at best and aren't really there for much more than show, so it's possible you're boosting 12 to 14lbs and it is just getting stuck at 7lbs.
Possibly check your boost control solenoid, since the car has been sitting that potentially could have gone bad, opening your wastegate early. Also check the tension on your wastegate actuator and recirculation valves to see if the springs are worn out and being pushed open by the boost pressure or exhaust pressure.
 
sry it took me so long to get back on here i was on vacation in the pa mtns .. no im still only useing the stock gage any recomendations on a cheap reliable one ... but i sure its not going any where near the boost it did a lil over a week ago i can feel the difference and i can noticed on my drive through pa that i can hear the pitch of the turbo stop changing after the gage stops climbing .. like i said be for i have removed the actuator and tied the waste gat closed with wire to be sure there is no way for it to open and its still the same. is there any way that there could maybe be rust build up in it not letting it close all the way it was sitting for a good while .. or is it more likely that the turbo is just getting old and maybe going bad ... i checked it out while in pa and there is no play in the spindle and it spins freely also all the blades are good and smooth no nicks or dings ... i also noticed that i lost a bolt on my down pipe and it has about a 1/8 inch gap between the down pipe and turbo housing now... i need to get a hold of a impact gun to get it tightned back up i couldnt move it by hand not even with a breaker bar witch leads me back to the rust idea ### if thats that rusted up then id think the the gate could be too ... man this is driving me crazy... still had no problem spanking my friends jetta turbo on the trip though but man i miss my extra power... by this point i am thinking i should drop the turbo open it up check the gate for rust chean it up and buy all new hoses and lines and i guess if that doesnt work a new turbo... if anyone knows anything else i can check along the way please let me know money is really tight right now and id really like to not have to buy a new turbo till im ready to go bigger but i have alot of work till i get to that point the person tha had the car be for me didnt take very good care of it ... agghhh please help
 
no money for a autometer yet but i lost even more boost today ... it now wont go above about 4 or 5 and i can feel the power drop so .. i was thinking what ever leak i have has gotten bigger.. i wasnt able to check the intercooler very well be for only did it by sound ### its so hard to get to. is pulling my bumper off the only good way to check that or is there a better way.
 
If you can't shell out $30 for an Autometer then I'm sorry but you will not be able to maintain this car.

As for the intercooler, you can easily bend the passenger side plastic wheel well cover back and see it or jack the car up and look.
 
so i found the problem 3 actually my BOV was actually cracked, and yes "mesarius" u were correct the gauge was malfunctioning. but most disturbing was the last thing i found. the little screw in the throttle body the one that i think is for nothing more then to adjust idle had been replaced with a huge clunky bolt that is more lodged in place then threaded in.. this worries me as to what else may be jerry rigged by the old owner "side note anyone know where i can get a replacement screw for that" anyway i removed the bolt and used a piece of tape till i can find a replacement as i'm not even sure what to look for and sure enough full boost with out any problems. as for "crimsondragon" id like to thank you personally and above all others that have helped me because amidst the most insane divorce iv ever so much as herd of, and fighting day in and day out for a chance to see my kids. being told by someone who knows nothing about me that having to wait until my next pay check to buy a part for my car,( the only hobby i'v held onto, a car i'v love since be for i was old enough to drive, and the only thing that takes my mind off the world of crap im going through right now,) is some how unacceptable is exactly what i needed. so thank you crimsondragon thank you for taking the time out of your day to kick a man while hes down. but on a serious note to those who were kind enough to share you knowledge of a car we all love, thank you.
 
I wasn't being a dick about it. I'm just telling the truth. If you're going through a world of trouble, it might be better to prioritize and see what is more important than having a hobby. I stand by what I said and if you consider it as me kicking a downed man, too bad. Get a reality check. Shit happens. Man up and deal with it.

As for the BISS screw, JNZTuning sells them as well as Extreme PSI.
 
I agree we all go through tough times, but this is not the place to spill your guts, we are here to talk about dsms specifically. There is the "hang out" forum for other BS.

Anyway the flapper you wired shut is called just that: The wastegate flapper or arm. The arm is held by the wastegate actuator regulating the amount the flapper opens which in turn limits the amount of boost being built. When i took my turbo housing off the seat for the flapper cracked severely and the flapper wouldn't seal around the gapping hole. In an extreme case if the seat was blown through completely bypassing any restriction the turbo would build little or no boost pressure.

Some people wire open their "flapper" to achieve zero boost under certain conditions (engine break in, etc.) Or get the flapper removed to run an external wastegate off the O2 housing.

Otherwise people will get the flapper tack welded shut to run an external wastegate off the manifold, if you don't run an external wastegate(w/ fapper tacked shut) on the manifold you would be running max boost.

Look at SBR, extreme psi and all other sites that have pictures of any mitsubishi turbo and you will see what flapper and seat i'm talking about.

BTW: Research heeds a lot of information, reading a lot will get you very far with your dsm. Just make a game plan to avoid doing shit over and over again, determine what/how the car will be used and make your plan according to such. You'll save a lot of time and money. And yes get a boost gauge, the one on the dash is for driver giggles and smirks.
 
yeah i got a meter about 2 weeks ago got it in and did another bl test the day be for my last post. Thanks for the flapper Tech by the way, i just had no idea what it was called and flapper just seems so improper. any way while i was doing the blt i fixed that gap that i had mentioned between the o2 housing and the down pipe. However i think that may have caused a new problem oddly enough. when i got it all back together meter and all. i took it up the road had full boost and all was good. long story short on the way home from the shop it blew a hole in the exhaust "no big" but not im hitting what i believe to be fuel cut under full boost would an exhaust leak cause that? or am i on to another problem? BTW sorry about the other days post had a bad day and i took it out on you and im sorry it was childish. i see where your coming from on the hobby thing too, and my gst is just that a hobby i have another car . i am completely aware of how costly they can be i learned the hard way lets just say this isnt my first one. so i park it and ask questions at the slightest hint of a problem.
 
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