Car ran hot, and now will not fire

[SkURTnDSM92T]

I have been trying to avoid starting a new thread, but I am really at a loss here. My profile should be up to date, and here is the background.

I live in FL, and when the weather started to get hot, so did my car. I previously had some electrical issues, so I didnt know at what temps my car was running. I finally had some time to work, so I installed 2 12" shrouded Flex-a-Lite fans and did a lot of rewiring. I had also recently purchased DSMLink, so I ditched my AFC.

The car currently turns over, but it does not fire. The battery is well charged, and I am getting fuel. I did not check for spark yet as it was too light out for me to see. There is no oil in my coolant, and the starter is brand new.

The car was running not too long ago, so I am really confused as to what could be the problem. I doubt the electrical components would fail over night, and all sensors/plugs are connected. I figured the car might be flooded as well (from so many unsuccessful starts), and I cant do a compression test because I cant get it warmed up.

Any help is appreciated, because I am supposed to move in 4 days here...and its not a short trip.

 

[SkURTnDSM92T]

Hopefully this is not considered a bump, but I have an update to my problem.

I checked for spark, which I was getting. I checked to make sure there were no leaks in the fuel return system, and that fuel was in fact being delivered, which it was. I checked all connections (power transistor, plug wires, MAF, sensors, etc).

My car has been running very rich, so after inspecting the spark plugs I decided to get new ones. After cleaning up and putting everything back together, the car started up and I took it around the block.

Unfortunately, I still can not get my temp gauges to work (stock or autometer) or my autometer oil pressure gauge. My EGT gauge started moving erratically, a problem which I have never had before. Any ideas on how to fix my gauge woes?

I have not been able to get DSMLink running due to a timeout error, which I will bring to that forum..

 

[r1991_4g63t]

sounds like a wiring issue with the guages, no easy fix as you have to trace the wires down to find the problem, did the car run ok with new plugs? if not are the any CELs?

 

[SkURTnDSM92T]

I actually just took the car out for a little 20 minute drive. Here is what I concluded.

The oil pressure gauge does not move, at all. The water temp gauge eventually moves, but I just dont think it was showing accurate numbers. I originally thought that both of these might not be working properly due to the sending unit being used.. If you have leads to both gauges (for example stock/autometer water temp) place on the same sending unit, will it give you inaccurate numbers?

The EGT is still bouncing erratically and I have never seen it do that before..It shows accurate numbers when on the throttle, but when im not it bounces sometimes..

As far as the wiring is concerned, the oil press and water temp (autometer) just receive 12V power from Ignition Switched source right? Then a wire to the sending unit... Does it matter what gauge wire is used?

A few minutes before I pulled in, I did actually get a check engine light. I imagined it was because the car was heating up, but the gauges didnt show this. I dont know how to get the CEL code, and I still have not been able to get DSMLink running on my computer..The car ran relatively well for having such a crude tune and pulled relatively well..

Let me know what you guys think..

 

[SkURTnDSM92T]

I have been in the process of moving and I have not been able to provide an update..

My first question is, does the car have to be warm to do a compression test? Before I got it to fire, I tried just to see what numbers I would get, and the results were listed in the Haynes as being a leaky/blown head gasket. I have yet to have any kind of oil in coolant though...

Any help is much appreciated..i should have some time coming up to try and get it sorted out..

 

[propeine]

What were your compression results? Don't have to have oil in the coolant to have a blown HG. Could be blown between cylinders or your head could be warped from overheating? If you have a cheapy Autozone compression tester you can unscrew the schrader valve and use it as a crude leakdown tool.

 

[SkURTnDSM92T]

My results showed 30 psi across the board with the inability to build more pressure... I figured that it might not be accurate because other than the car running hot, i didnt think I had other blown HG symptoms. The test was also done with the car cold, but I just didnt expect results that low..I figured if compression was that low, the car would not run. Im going to have to re-run the comp test

That is one of my previous questions..CAN you have a blown HG without Oil in the Coolant? I didnt think you could..

What do you mean in regards to the leakdown tool? I have a compression tester gauge, and I should be able to re-test compression now that the car is running.

Problem is I still dont know what originally caused the car to run so hot..

 

[propeine]

30 across the board WTF...ya i wouldn't think it would run at that either. My Conquest had the headgasket burnt out between two cylinders when I purchased it. No milky coolant or anything just a nice burn spot....to the extent that the PO ruined the damn block...and the head. Idiot.

For the leakdown tool you can usually just disconnect the gauge on your compression tester, unscrew the schrader valve at the end you screw into the cylinder and then pressurize your combustion chamber. Make sure your valves for that cylinder are closed and then listen. If you hear air in the dipstick its rings, oil fill cap can be rings of valve seals, exhaust is bent or burnt exhaust valves, intake is bent intake valves. If you hear it in the next cylinder your headgasket is blown between cylinders. Quick and dirty leakdown test!

 

[SkURTnDSM92T]

Clever, I will have to check that out. Hopefully I can get sometime this weekend to work..

 

[aaparker]

I have been in the process of moving and I have not been able to provide an update..

My first question is, does the car have to be warm to do a compression test?

The answer would be no. Another method for a compression check is once you have done a compression check if numbers are low, like in your case, put a tad bit of oil in the chamber, if your numbers rise then your rings are a candidate, the oil will seal the rings temporarily. Your numbers are extremely low though which makes me doubt this would do you any good, but for future reference.

 

[Gs Dewd]

Id say do another compression test with a different gauge. Something just doesn't sound right there. How does the car actually run? Check all your wiring to the gauges and sensor you have a short somewhere. Just follow your wiring you will see the error.

 

[SkURTnDSM92T]

The car does not run terrible, but after 20-30 mins of driving, the temps start to climb. Im running straight water right now, so when it hits about 210F, it throws a CEL, and I stop so I dont do any damage. This is with both fans on full power..

I can run another compression test no problem, but I am going to have to wait until Sunday to do it. The only gauge that is not working at all seems to be oil pressure, and I still think its a sending unit issue. I will check the wiring to be sure. My EGT just bounces all over the place, but most of the time when Im on the throttle, it reads fine. Im guessing its a lose ground issue?

My car never really had an issue of staying cool, and that was with a far inferior fan setup than I currently have. I might go drive around with my bumper off to see if the radiator is not getting flow, causing it to get hot.