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Gear Grinds, Smell of fuel from inside of car.

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dsmsyko

Probationary Member
20
0
Jun 28, 2008
Montreal,
Hey guy's I just got my first DSM :), its a 93' Eagle Talon TSI. There are 3 problems with it though, the clutch slip's so I'm guessing I must change the clutch, there is a fuel smell inside the car and I don't know what the problem for that is, also the gears grind. How can I fix those two problems? Thank's
 
the grinding gears should go away with changing the clutch, unless the synchros are fried.
as for the fuel leak... you'll just have to see where its leaking and go from there
 
I was in the same situation when I bought my GSX. Had fuel smell in the car. I had a bad FPR, and a bad gasket near the gas tank. As for the grinding, if it dose not go away with the new clutch, it probably is fried syncros. You could also try changing the tranny fluid. Good luck with the DSM.
 
Thank's alot for the replies guy's. I will change my clutch as soon as I got time, is there anywhere on the site that show's how to do it yourself?
 
anti lock brakes, a bunch of brake lines going into a big metal cube on the passenger side by the intake hoses, above the tranny
 
as for tools besides jack and stands the only thing you will need besides a metric socket AND wrench set with 10-17 is the 32mm for the axle nuts. you do need a set of wrenches AND sockets otherwise you wont be able to get everything, some things you have to use a wrench and some you have to use a socket.

and a torque wrench for torquing the clutch to the flyweel and the flywheel to the crank.
 
as for tools besides jack and stands the only thing you will need besides a metric socket AND wrench set with 10-17 is the 32mm for the axle nuts. you do need a set of wrenches AND sockets otherwise you wont be able to get everything, some things you have to use a wrench and some you have to use a socket.

and a torque wrench for torquing the clutch to the flyweel and the flywheel to the crank.

Ok thank's for the list of tool's I will need :)
 
remove intake hose from throttle body and remove the BOV pipe from the hose to the intercooler
remove intake assembly from turbo along with the MAF sensor
remove lower hose
disconnect battery, loosen 2 starter bolts, reach around and pull starter back just enough to get it out of the tranny, no need to take it all out
unscrew the speedo cable from the top of tranny just above the cv axles
remove shifter cables from both the shift levers and the bracket that holds them
remove cotter pins and axle nuts

2 options here i took the first route as its easier IMO and the latter puts alot of stress on the strut mounts
1. loosen the 10mm bolt holding the brake line to the strut
take 2 bolts out holding strut and spindle together and pull outward enough to get the axle to slide out of the hub then remove axles from tranny
2. remove cotter pins and lower ball joint nut and seperate the lower ball from the spindle then pull outward to remove axle from hubs

best to use a tranny jack but a regular jack with a flat piece of wood will work, get a jack supporting the tranny before going any further.

remove the bolt going through the tranny mount and the mount actually on the tranny
remove 2 bolts going through mount into tranny.
remove the 4 remaining bolts, 2 up top,1 toward the front and 1 in back going through the block into the tranny
slide it back just a bit then you will want to bring the part of the tranny towards the front of the car out towards you and down, otherwise pulling it out straight you will hit the diff on the subframe.
remove 6 bolts from clutch
remove 6 or 7 bolts from flywheel and have the flywheel turned then reassemble
 
remove intake hose from throttle body and remove the BOV pipe from the hose to the intercooler
remove intake assembly from turbo along with the MAF sensor
remove lower hose
disconnect battery, loosen 2 starter bolts, reach around and pull starter back just enough to get it out of the tranny, no need to take it all out
unscrew the speedo cable from the top of tranny just above the cv axles
remove shifter cables from both the shift levers and the bracket that holds them
remove cotter pins and axle nuts

2 options here i took the first route as its easier IMO and the latter puts alot of stress on the strut mounts
1. loosen the 10mm bolt holding the brake line to the strut
take 2 bolts out holding strut and spindle together and pull outward enough to get the axle to slide out of the hub then remove axles from tranny
2. remove cotter pins and lower ball joint nut and seperate the lower ball from the spindle then pull outward to remove axle from hubs

best to use a tranny jack but a regular jack with a flat piece of wood will work, get a jack supporting the tranny before going any further.

remove the bolt going through the tranny mount and the mount actually on the tranny
remove 2 bolts going through mount into tranny.
remove the 4 remaining bolts, 2 up top,1 toward the front and 1 in back going through the block into the tranny
slide it back just a bit then you will want to bring the part of the tranny towards the front of the car out towards you and down, otherwise pulling it out straight you will hit the diff on the subframe.
remove 6 bolts from clutch
remove 6 or 7 bolts from flywheel and have the flywheel turned then reassemble

Thank's alot bro for telling me how to change the clutch, really appreciate it. Will change it when I get time :)

Edit: By any chance do you know how much Torque ill be needing to put the flywheel bolt's and clutch bolt's? Thank's
 
no problem, there is also a ground going to the tranny i forgot but you will see it up towards the top. also if youve never done a clutch before, when you torque it down do each bolt just a little at a time and go in a star pattern if your not sure what i mean lmk and ill explain better

oh and you will also need a small prybar to pop the axles from the tranny, and make sure they snap all the way in when installing them
 
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