***need Help 2g Eclipse Powerloss***

[RachGST]

Ok I have a 95 Eclipse GST with a 1G block(JE Pistons, Eagle Rods), 2G Head and IM, 1G CAS, balance shaft deleted. The problem i'm having is it starts up but when I give it full throttle, at about 3000-4000 RPMs it dies back down and if I hold it to the floor, it wants to die, the BOV doesn't blow off either even when I let off the throttle at 4000RPM. Also, immediately following the engine start, it revs really high then back down to around 1000RPM. I thought maybe it was valves or head gasket so I did a comp. test and it was all reading around I believe 160-170 psi, which to my knowledge and what the book says is good. The 1G CAS is wired exactly how Magnus says to do it so I eliminated that as a problem. Only thing I didn't do that Magnus said to do with a 1G CAS swap is changing the injector sequence. I got to thinking that maybe it was that, but it shouldn't be that much of fuel loss to a cylinder at WOT, all the injectors would be spitting plenty of fuel nonstop. Can someone please help me? I took the head off and replaced the head gasket and the valves seem to be seated properly.

 

[OneLove]

Have you done a boost leak test?

 

[RachGST]

No not yet, I read that that might be the problem. That would make it not rev up high? And if so, can someone explain why it would do this? This is my first boosted car.

 

[TjPhillips36]

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

Does it have problems in just normal driving? Or just when your giving it a lot of gas?

 

[TalonTsi31]

i would try a boost leak test it fixed my powerloss problem. but mine straight would not build any boost i had a bad coupler.
here is a link to how to build one and how to do the test
2G Turbo DSM Boost Leaks -How to test and fix
i got all of my stuff at a hardware stor(homedepot) and added a gauge and regulator and it still only ran me 30 bucks.
also remember if the gauge wont read then you have a huge leak because it wont even slightly pressurize.
you actually will probably be suprised by the amount of small leaks.
try doing it from the turbo inlet as well as on the TB(throttle body).

 

[RachGST]

It doesn't drive hardly at all without wanting to die. I can idle down the road at 15000RPMs, but when I give it any more gas at runs VERY VERY rough and boggy. Thanks for the quick replies everyone. I'll try a boost leak as soon as I can, but I still am confused at to why if that's what it is, why it would cause it to do that.

 

[TjPhillips36]

A boost leak is essentially also a Vacuum leak when not boosting, especially if it's fairly large such as a torn hose, or coupler. Also I would check your plugs/wires.

 

[RachGST]

Well I guess i'll just have to take that answer. . Thanks for all the help guys, i'll post the boost test results after I get the chance to test it.

 

[RachGST]

I tested it for boost leaks and it wasn't holding, so I tested it right at the throttle body and it was leaking out all sides by the gaskets and the idle screw. Would I need to get new gaskets or maybe try some form-a-gasket? Would that make it do what it's doing? Also, i'm buying new couplers just to be on the safe side and i'll do another boost leak test after that. Also, do they have only metal gaskets or those kind of fel-pro like material like out head gaskets that mold to it when it's torqued down. Thanks guys.

 

[crimsondragon]

I tested it for boost leaks and it wasn't holding, so I tested it right at the throttle body and it was leaking out all sides by the gaskets and the idle screw. Would I need to get new gaskets or maybe try some form-a-gasket? Would that make it do what it's doing? Also, i'm buying new couplers just to be on the safe side and i'll do another boost leak test after that. Also, do they have only metal gaskets or those kind of fel-pro like material like out head gaskets that mold to it when it's torqued down. Thanks guys.

Use some RTV sealant. on the gaskets. Replace them if they're worn. The BISS screw should have an O-ring in there I believe. If it's worn, replace that too.

 

[RachGST]

Thanks, yeah i got the screw out and bought some ultra copper high temp RTV. I'll be going and getting new o-rings for the shaft and the screw. Hopefully no leaks. Also, i'm redoing my FMIC piping.