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my car has gone to the skits.

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playboy1884

20+ Year Contributor
81
0
Dec 22, 2002
ozark, Arkansas
ok for the last few days my car was running buggy it would die after a drive , then today it wouldnt move even though i was at full boost no smoke changed the fuel filter and it idles kind of bumpy .
i can start it it runs fine for a few minutes then gets choppy and inevitably stops and dies . then if i kill it and restart it it works fine for a few more minutes any ideas? ty much

anyone ??? or can a mod put it where ill get ppl to reply:beatentodeath:
 
ok could it be sp missing or wires someone told me that i find it hard to believe it is missing but theres some nice [popping sounds when i let off . the ecu , hmm they just go out like that ? b/c it is off and on , drives me to work and back still but im afraid to run it all over. LOL b/c its schitzo atm ..

again rough idle and evident death after 5-15 min runs i can kill it after it gets messed and runs fine for another 1-2 minutes or so on .

i drove it on the interstate for 30 miles and it was missing like would have dead spots so i got off the exit and turned around then on the way back i couldnt boost or itd bog and die . or try , but 3rd gear 4k rpm at 65 it was ok till hills . then the next exit it died . and waited a few mins it started and drove 9 miles home till it went schitzo.

please a dsm guru hgelp me here i havent the money to fix everything ppl are saying
 
I agree with dsmgs-t. It sounds like the caps are leaking in your ecu. I think this because its intermittent, as opposed to a constant problem. I've had this happen to me in a 2l n/a eclipse(minus the boost)
 
ok i went and had it hooked up to a scanner , one of thoise 17000 dollar ones everything works except an o2 sensor and a p1400 code manifold differential pressure sensor could they be causing it ?

The MDP sensor could definitely cause this intermittent problem. Which 02 sensor code did you get?? Btw, you said this is for your 95, do you still have the 97?? If so, can't you just swap the ecu's and see if that's it or get a buddy with a dsm to swap with. Just so you can figure out if that's the problem. If I lived a little closer to you I would come down and help you out, but that's too far. First though you need to test the MDP sensor according to your service manual. If you don't have one post back and I'll give you the testing method. After you have done the test of the MDP sensor do a tune up like mentioned before. Plugs, wires and test the ignition coil pack. If all that tests out good you're gonna need to try to convince someone to loan you an ecu. Your 95 could have an eprom ecu in it. If you get an ecu out of a 96-99 you will have to swap the plug wires around. 1-2, and 3-4. There's not really a quick fix for these sort of things unless you just get lucky and swap the right thing. Test these few parts and post back and we'll go from there.:thumb:

Good luck.
 
ive got the chiltons , but i cant find the testing method , please post and thanks man

The MDP sensor is located on top of the intake manifold. Unplug the electrical connector. The connectors on these sensors can be a PIA to get off if you don't know how to. There is a small metal clip that runs around 3 sides of the connector. Just take an awl/pick and pull the metal clip off. Then unplug the connector. Using a multimeter set on DC voltage connect one lead to terminal 1 on the sensor and the other lead to ground. Have someone start the engine then, the multimeter should be reading .8 volts. Have whoever's in the car to stomp the accelerator and let off real quick. When the accelerator is released suddenly the voltage should jump from .8 up to 2.4 volts. If the sensor fails either one of these tests replace it. If the MDP sensor tests good post back and we'll go from there.
 
ok found out that wont do anything like this . my fuel pump runs and works , but after running makes a whine , donno if thats normal , but im going to test cable arc tonight and also check my powerpack


i had a nissan tech drive it he thinks its the fuel pump b/c he thought it was going lean , still doesnt seem to tell me why it runs fine for 5 mins then starts being ### and if im rolling i can shut off the ignition and turn it back on itll run fine for about another 1-2 mins so thats how i got it home. ---anymore ideas?
 
check you CAS it could be the problem, if not then something else.

ok found out that wont do anything like this . my fuel pump runs and works , but after running makes a whine , donno if thats normal , but im going to test cable arc tonight and also check my powerpack


i had a nissan tech drive it he thinks its the fuel pump b/c he thought it was going lean , still doesnt seem to tell me why it runs fine for 5 mins then starts being ### and if im rolling i can shut off the ignition and turn it back on itll run fine for about another 1-2 mins so thats how i got it home. ---anymore ideas?
 
will the ecu keep the car from starting i couldnt get the starter motor to initiate no click so i tried to pony jump it , wouldnt engage the flywheel.

The ecu does control certain ignition components, so yes if the ecu were to go out it could cause the car to not crank. Like stated, it's a possibility your CAS could be going bad. Did you check the MDP sensor?? Was it good or no?? Try testing your injectors next, just unplug teh connectors off each one and they should test 2 to 3 ohms. If they are all good then the fuel pump does need to be tested, along with the MPI and fuel pump relays. Both of these relays are on the passsenger side of the console. Really all you have to do to test your fuel pump is pull off the fuel hose at the rail and turn the car over. That should tell you something. Try those few things and post back.
 
sorry it took so long , i think its my walbro its hard wired so runs all the time when cars on the on position , but once it starts popping and sputtering sounds like a mean drag car the fuel pump wines and its loud , so im thinking mybe the pump stops working once it gets hot or the fpr is bad,. anyway ill let you know when i get around to repairing it , also i need to borrow an ecu if anyone has one for a 5 speed 95
 
electric fuel pumps will run fine until the components get hot, which doesnt take very long, maybe 3-4 minutes and then pretty much stop working. check your fuel pressure as soon as you start the car see if its good and then see if it drops of below spec.(make sure its cold, so if youve had it on already, wait at least an hour)
 
it didnt run hot all of a sudden they just run like that to begin with(im not talkin burnin hot just warm you know) im new to DSMs but if the pumps in these cars are like most they get cooled by the fuel(hence why you not supposed to run your car low on fuel) but anyway this is the exact same thing that happened to my z28 a couple years ago(worst part about it is that it took a shit while i was racing a vett) :cry: but anyway i managed to get it home and i took it out the next day and it ran for about 2 maybe 3 miles and started to fall on its face, i checked the pressure at the rail and it was low, checked it after it cooled down and the pressure was up a little higher so i know it was the pump from the difference in pressure when it was hot and cold. by the way changin a fuel pump in a camaro is not fun at all, im not sure how bad they are on DSMs but if there like that ima be pissed LOL.

about the fuel pressure tester you can rent one at autozone or murrays or some other parts store, or just buy one there not that expensive i bought mine off of my Matco dealer and it was like 80 so it should be cheaper at a parts store or sears.
 
whiile moving not at a stop never tried that i know this b/c i had to drive it home. when itd cut out id have to shut it off then i could floor it and fine before i shut it off if i floored it or went past 2lbs boost itd cut out
 
yeah when you shut it down its starts to cool off a little bit so when it kicks back on itll work for a little bit. im just sayin from how your describing it, it sounds like what happened to me and thats what it was. also this might sound strange but a restriced cat could cause similar problems except for the whole workin again after its been shut off part.
 
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