2G Car stalling - need urgent help

[csto]

Hi, help would be so greatly appreciated. I have about a week to get my eclipse fixed or else I am going to have to sell it. I have a 98 gst with 680cc injectors, safc, evo 3, walbro 255lph.

When the problems don't occur, the car runs flawlessly. The problem is that it bucks commonly, and randomly it will die going down the road(everything electrical stays on). I thought it was the ecu, so I switched my factory ecu for a 95 eprom dsmlink ecu and it still has the bucking issue. But here is the strange part. With the factory ecu, sometimes it will die and every time I go to start it, it starts right back up but exactly a second later it will die again. But with the dsmlink ecu, instead of starting then dying right again, it starts but idles extremely low and I'm pretty sure its only running on 2 cylinders (shakes rougher than running on 3 cylinders). Why would there be a difference between these two ecus?

If I let the car sit and cool down for the night, it always starts back up fine in the morning. The stalling randomly issue occurs more after the car has been driven quite a few times in one day. The car also throws an injector malfunction code(its been doing this for years and hasn't caused a problem since). I would think one injector malfunctioning wouldn't cause the whole engine to stall though. Where should I go from here? What should I check?

 

[super97gst]

Hi, help would be so greatly appreciated. I have about a week to get my eclipse fixed or else I am going to have to sell it. I have a 98 gst with 680cc injectors, safc, evo 3, walbro 255lph.

When the problems don't occur, the car runs flawlessly. The problem is that it bucks commonly, and randomly it will die going down the road(everything electrical stays on). I thought it was the ecu, so I switched my factory ecu for a 95 eprom dsmlink ecu and it still has the bucking issue. But here is the strange part. With the factory ecu, sometimes it will die and every time I go to start it, it starts right back up but exactly a second later it will die again. But with the dsmlink ecu, instead of starting then dying right again, it starts but idles extremely low and I'm pretty sure its only running on 2 cylinders (shakes rougher than running on 3 cylinders). Why would there be a difference between these two ecus?

If I let the car sit and cool down for the night, it always starts back up fine in the morning. The stalling randomly issue occurs more after the car has been driven quite a few times in one day. The car also throws an injector malfunction code(its been doing this for years and hasn't caused a problem since). I would think one injector malfunctioning wouldn't cause the whole engine to stall though. Where should I go from here? What should I check?

there is a difference in a 95 and all late model ecu's. when you swap to a 95 ecu you need to swap plug wires 1-2 and 3-4. sometimes everything run right without doing it, sometimes it doesn't. the first thing you should do is pull the injectors out and test them with an ohm meter. just test the impedence of each injector so you know which one's causing the problems. once you know, swap it. that doesn't necessarily mean the injector is causing the problem but you already know you've got something wrong there. so you might as well start there.

are there any other trouble codes?? no po300??

if you eliminate all of the injectors check continuity on all of the connectors and wiring for the injectors. then you'll just have to start checking normal po300 checks.

boost leak test, TPS, IAC motor, CAS, CPS, compression. but since you already know somethings not right on the injectors check those first and post back the results. there's no sense in selling the car because of this, but if you do sell it really cheap, i'll make a trip to montana. i need a daily driver work car

 

[csto]

still no explanation for why the 2 ecus do something different when the car is stalling? I always switch the ignition wires around when I switch the ecus. I was looking the other day and one of my igintion wires is charred up where it goes into the coil and the plastic around the coil is deteriorating and falling off. Could an old cause the whole car to completely not start?

 

[super97gst]

still no explanation for why the 2 ecus do something different when the car is stalling? I always switch the ignition wires around when I switch the ecus. I was looking the other day and one of my igintion wires is charred up where it goes into the coil and the plastic around the coil is deteriorating and falling off. Could an old cause the whole car to completely not start?

, thats not good. that should also point you to the problem pretty easily. and to answer your question, yes, if the coil is bad it can cause the car to not even start. it could also be a combination of plug wires and the coil. i would be swapping that out. their not really as high as i always thought either. i put a new coil on mine about a month ago and it was 144 from extreme psi. also, you didnt say, are you throwing any type of trouble codes?? CEL on?? with the coil in that kind of shape though it would probably be a safe bet to say it has something to do with it.

 

[csto]

The car only throws an injector malfunction code but its been doing that for years and hasn't had a problem sense. I'm going to try to replace the coils and cam angle sensor tomorrow and see if that works. Where can I get a new fuel relay from?

 

[super97gst]

The car only throws an injector malfunction code but its been doing that for years and hasn't had a problem sense. I'm going to try to replace the coils and cam angle sensor tomorrow and see if that works. Where can I get a new fuel relay from?

well, parts stores dont usually carry relays for things like that, so i would say the dealer. but a relay wont cause the problems you're having. that isn't such a bad idea as well on swapping the CAS. and its only like 65