Sloppy Clutch Pedal

[Empir3 X]

Ok so heres the deal...

I have replaced my clutch with an oem clutch kit, had my flywheel resurfaced, replaced my slave and master cylinder.

My clutch pedal is mushy as hell. It lags at the bottom and is slow to return. I have bled the line like 5 or 6 times and to my dismay no better. I physically checked the fluid line and see no wear that would indicate a problem.

After this i replaced the master cylinder again (thinking it was bad) and also bled the line many times. No help to the clutch.

The Tranny shifts smooth and holds fine even under hard acceleration. (I am sure the tranny was put together correctly)

I am out of ideas unless the slave i got is bad also.

Please Help! Thanks, Alex

 

[hypnoticpimp]

Have you tried adjusting the clutch pedal?

 

[Empir3 X]

yup, sure have every way possible

 

[1gDSM4g63]

If you just replace master and slave and the whole setup I would look into the clutch reservoir.

 

[Empir3 X]

reservoir does not leak and is full.

 

[hypnoticpimp]

What clutch did u have before the change? When i drove my friends eclipse that had an oem clutch it felt mushy also compared to my 2100

 

[Empir3 X]

an oem, no change just new stuff

addition: not that it matters but i put a new shift fork in

 

[Empir3 X]

anything

 

[jake247]

is the spring hooked up that returns the clutch pedal to the right position?

 

[Empir3 X]

yes the spring along with the rest of the pedal assembly is in place.

I cant figure this out but it has to be a hydrological system issue the way its acting.....

 

[Empir3 X]

anybody else ever have a issue like this? If so please let me know what you did to fix it. Thanks

 

[absolute_DSM]

Check your soft clutch line. It may be swelling when you press the clutch.

 

[Empir3 X]

checked my line no swelling. Is there any way this could have to do with my trans and clutch assembly?

I need to figure this damn thing out!!!!

 

[Empir3 X]

Ok, since i cant figure this out im thinking about pulling the tranny back off to check the shift fork and pp alignment. Am i missing anything before i go to this step.....

 

[Empir3 X]

After some more research i have decided to buy the ss clutch line for the slave cylinder and the longer rod for the slave. After putting the parts on and re-adjusting the master cylinder i will post up my progress.

 

[empie1]

checked my line no swelling. Is there any way this could have to do with my trans and clutch assembly?

I need to figure this damn thing out!!!!

Def check your clutch line..people switch to s.s. lines cause the oem ones are prone to leak which will make i impossible for you to every get bled prperly.

 

[Empir3 X]

bringing this one back. I ended up stripping the nut that connects the rubber line to the hard line that goes to the MC.

Because of this my buddy bought that line off of me and i ordered the entire line form SBR that goes form the m/c to the s/c.

I am going to put this on when it gets to my house and bleed the system back out.

Should i just try and follow the stock route of the line from the m/c to s/c and also should i try and remove it..It looks yucky to remove!

I'm hoping i will get rid of my spongy pedal this way finally after months of unbearable driving. (shifting like a grandma because of disengagement)

Any ideas/comments greatly appreciated!!!

Alex

 

[jake247]

i did an auto-> man swap, and got the sbr line (actually installed it in their parking lot, ha!) the single flared hard line I ran kept leaking.

I ran it along the back of the firewall, shoved it down behind the battery box, under the fuse box and under the mas/air filter, and then between the subframe and the engine mount to hold it in place.

I just had my engine out and this time I completely wrapped the thing in black electrical tape because I don't want the line rubbing through a wire or something. braided lines are dangerous... I also zip tied it everywhere I could to prevent rubbing. it'll eat right through a wire's insulation due to vibration.

 

[Empir3 X]

good idea on the electrical tape on the line i will do that when i put it in. I just invested like 600$ in tools and a box so i am saving up for a jack right now so i can get under the damn car to disconnect the s/c line (hard when your 6'1" 225 haha). I think after putting the line on, re-bleeding the system, and adjucting the master cylinder i will be able to get rid of my plauged sloppy pedal. I will post results. Thanks,

Alex

 

[Dsm2nr89]

I am also having problems with my clutch pedal. It has been adjusted many times, changed my slave and master cylinders, bled the system, no leaks whatsoever, good fluid level. Sometimes the clutch is soft, sometimes its good, and sometimes its so stiff where there is no freeplay whatsoever and it takes about .25" to engage ! WTH is going on ? I'm about to just beat this stupid tranny up

 

[Empir3 X]

So to my avail after putting on the full ss line, re-bleeding my system, and adjusting my m/c rod every way possible(and i mean every way....i spent like 2 hours trying different spots) i still have a un-responsive pedal. It kills me because it shifts fine for dd(although very soft) but if i want to make a fast shift, the pedal drags back so it wont disengage fast enough.

This problem is slowly killing me. If you have read this thread already or not please make a comment if i have missed anything.

A very sad DSMtuner......

Alex

 

[eclipsh]

Wow this is a weird one.

I see you replaced the master cylinder. What condition is the slave in?

Have you checked the alignment of the clutch fork in the bell housing opening? It should be centered in the opening when the TOB starts to touch the pressure plate.

When you've been bleeding/adjusting the system, have you had the cap to the master cylinder off? If not you may still have a lot of air in the system.

Also, have you threaded the rod on the master as far into the pedal as possible and then slowly backed it out?

Have you checked to make sure the trans is bolted tight to the engine block?

 

[Empir3 X]

1. Slave and master cylinder are brand new, no leaks anywhere.
2. Clutch fork is centered.
3. Cap is always off the reservoir when bleeding
4. I have not threaded the rod all the way in and then backed it out. Elaborate more on how this would affect the problem.
5. Tranny is mounted up correctly (probably the 5th or 6th tranny I have done on one of these cars)

Would a slave cylinder rod extension work? i hear very mixed results on these parts.
Thanks, Alex

 

[eclipsh]

The master cylinder cannot balance the fluid/pressure properly if the rod is not threaded out of the cylinder far enough. Push in your clutch once, get out and crawl under the car. Try to push the slave cylinder rod into the slave with your fingers.

If you can't push it in then your system hasn't been adjusted right. If this is the case, thread the rod into the pedal as far as you can, pump the clutch once or twice (with the cover off) and then check your slave again. If you can push it in now then it is ok and you can adjust your master rod from there to get the disengagement point right.

 

[Empir3 X]

I can push the rod into the slave..... grrrrrr

damn these things