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JDM 4g63, bottom end knock

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kyanox

20+ Year Contributor
52
0
Feb 17, 2003
Missoula, Montana
Ok I wanted to get a thread started, partially to catalog my experience with ordering a JDM on ebay (yes i know, i must be stupid) along with get some input on what might fix the problem.

First of all, I have a 92 TSI, when i aquired the car the guy who owned it before me had spent some $$ on the motor. This is what the guy said it came with. An EVO3 motor, 16g big turbo, 550cc injectors.

Well long story short, the motor wouldn't start and after digging into it, the kid had broken off 1 of the number 3 intake valves. Now the number 3 piston had a big chunk out of it, so i replaced them. The pistons in the motor before i replaced them were marked 63tf1, which i couldnt find for replacement, so i use 63tk1. Long story short, that motor ran for about 100 miles before the top end knocking came back. Upon further inspection, i noticed the valves were slapping the pistons, and whomever did the block before me had shaved too much off the block, the f1 and k1 pistons were topping off right above the top of the block, and smacking the valves when they were closed.

So lesson learned there, i plan on rebuilding that motor with a thicker cometic head gasket so the valves don't hit.

Any ideas on that build before i begin it.

Also next, the reason for the thread. I bought a JDM engine on ebay, the auction said 80k miles on it, and guaranteed head/block engine, it did ship with a full harness and switchable trans/transfer case :).

So i get the motor in, its guaranteed to run by the company who sold it. As long as i replace timing/gaskets/etc... all the usuals one replaces when a motor is out of the car. Long story short, when i went to fire it up tonight, it wouldnt idle, it would fire for a bit and die, and there was this LOUD knock sound comming from the engine. The last time i heard such a loud knock was from a broken rod.

Now im not a novice by any means, i've owned several eclipses and a few talons. So i started with a compression test. I got wierd values.. My first set were 25-0-50-75 which normally = dead motor. So i ran them again, this time cranking for 30 seconds each cylinder. 90-80-90-110, mm this started looking good. So i ran 4 more tests on each cylinder. 0-20-40-50, 25-50-90-110, 50-70-110-120, 125,145,145,145/

Here's where im confused. Now before anyone suggusts my tester could be faulty, i have 4 compression testers, just for that purpose..

What's happening is, compression is fluxuating when trying to fire i think. But im not sure what would cause that. I have noticed that there is a really loud knock, like rod knock. When i got the motor it was already drained, but the oil was black. There wasn't any metal shavings in it, and the filter also had no shavings.

I did remove the balance shafts, and used my rear stub for the oil pump, and left the front balance shaft in without a belt.

So at this point im going to pull the oil pan and check the rods/mains for clearance, unless anyone has any other ideas. I do have plastiguage, and i will probably plastiguage, but this loud knock really does sound like a spun bearing. Any ideas?
 
So the engine dose not run long enough to warm up? Those compression readings are very strange, cold or hot. Sorry you're having so much trouble but it seems like a rod bearing to me also. At the same time, if there is no metal in the oil or the filter then I don't see how that could be the problem. Do you have a mechanics stethoscope to help pinpoint the problem?
 
No the engine doesnt run long enough to warm up. Im convinced its got to be something, though i can get the oil pressure to climb to 70 on a continuous crank. I think it has to be a spun rod bearing because of the loud knock.

I will know more when i do the spark plug test. I plan on pulling each plug wire one by one until the engine starts and doesn't knock, if it i can figure out which cylinder is causing the problem i might be able to go from there.

I do have another good 4g63 6bolt crank and rod/piston set, perhaps i may just swap them out. Currently the motor has factory 4g63 rods/pistons, and i do have 63tk1's on the other 1g rods.

Im also considering a forged rod/piston set, any suggustions on a good set that will run with little or no issues.
 
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